Apáti Circuit – relaxed Tihany hike with splendid panoramas

Itinerary

• From the parking lot, start on an unmarked path to the Ruins of Apáti Church.
• From the church ruins, follow the S signs to the top of Apáti Hill.
• At the junction, turn left to follow the S▲ signs leading up to the Watchtower Lookout.
• Return to the base of the lookout and briefly continue following the S▲ signs.
• About 100 meters later, turn right into the ancient lavender field, where the St. James pilgrimage scallop sign leads the way.
• At the foot of the hillside, turn right onto the Z▲ sign, which we follow up to Csúcs Hill.
• Once on Csúcs Hill, join the Lóczy nature trail and take a short detour to the left on the S sign to the viewpoint.
• Heading back, continue on the S sign all the way to the Ruins of Apáti Church.
• From the ruins, walk back to the parking lot on the unmarked path.

Detailed tour description

Our hike begins from the parking lot designed for visitors of the Watchtower Lookout, near the road leading to Tihany. We start alongside the bike path on a trodden trail through grassy slopes. A few hundred meters ahead, behind a cluster of trees, appears the newly rebuilt church of the former Apáti village. This Romanesque-style, single-nave church was likely built in the 13th century for about five hundred residents of the abbey village. During Turkish rule, the settlement was destroyed, leaving the ruins named after Apáti as the only remnant. Protection efforts began in the 1940s to prevent total ruin, and in 1999 the church was completely rebuilt—although many still refer to it as ruins. Unfortunately, entry is not allowed, but in summer, Saturday evening masses are held in the small building.

Behind the building, the hiking trail starts toward Apáti Hill, on which we spot three signs: the lookout’s, the S strip, and the nature trail’s T emblem named after Lóczy Lajos. This path, named after the famous geologist and researcher of Lake Balaton, is notable not only for being Hungary’s first nature trail but also because it links almost all natural attractions on the Tihany Peninsula. The 11 km route traverses the entire peninsula, but we join it only partially, mostly enjoying its special layout during the second half of the hike.

A gently rising wooded path leads up Apáti Hill. In summer, the oak forest resounds with the deafening singing of cicadas, although the insects remain hidden. We cross a clearing with wildflower meadows and get a glimpse of the outlook over the Outer Lake. After another push, we reach the hilltop, from where several paths branch off. Following the S▲ sign to the left and a few steps, we arrive at our first target, the Watchtower Lookout.

Tihany panoramic view

Resembling Roman watchtowers, this tower instantly became a favorite among hikers after opening in 2017. From its 16.5 m high platform, located on the 216 m tall hill, you get magnificent views of the entire peninsula and the surrounding Lake Balaton and its shores.

You can see the vegetated, shallow Outer Lake with its mosaic surface, whose rich wildlife is continually watched by brown marsh harriers hunting for prey. Northward, the first “defensive line” of Balaton Uplands consists of lower hills, including the whitewashed church tower of Pécsely. Further away, the Bakony Mountains appear, distinguishing the characteristic Kab Hill radio tower peak. Lake Balaton is visible from multiple directions, almost completely surrounding us; eastward lies the developed shoreline of Balatonfüred, while westward we see the once rare contiguous reed beds of the Bázsa Bay. The horizon reaches as far as the flat plateau of Badacsony. Opposite us are also clearly visible the pillars of the Köröshegy valley bridge, and nearer are the Inner Lake and Tihany Abbey. Below us on the southern side of Apáti Hill lies a park-like, bushy area: the ancient lavender that we will explore up close soon.

The home of lavender

After enjoying every element of the Tihany panorama, we return to the fork and continue left. For about 100 meters, still follow the S▲ sign below the lookout, then turn onto the right, descending path (marked with the St. James pilgrimage scallop sign), passing through the ancient lavender field.

This first Tihany lavender plantation’s site has a unique ambiance and exciting history. Gyula Bittera, a renowned herbal expert of his time, decided to cultivate lavender after the French model, choosing this sunny, rocky area. In 1926, he planted the first bushes, and by the 1930s, produced world-class essential oil from Tihany lavender, which was even traded on the American commodity exchange. Unfortunately, the land was neglected in the 1950s, much was plowed under, replaced by vineyards. This small area survived and is maintained by the Balaton Uplands National Park, which prevents overgrowth by grazing. Lavender bushes scattered among almond trees are most beautiful in early summer, making it the best time for a walk here. It is important to remember the area is protected; picking plants is prohibited, and we must stay on the designated path.

At the foot of the gentle slope stands a barrier. We descend into the inner part of the peninsula, divided by vineyards. Turn right onto the Z▲ sign! This short cutoff leads to the most spectacular part of the aforementioned nature trail. The somewhat steep but only a few hundred meters long climb brings us to Csúcs Hill, where we join the scenic Lóczy Lajos nature trail (“geyser trail”) running along the western edge of the peninsula’s mountains.

Panorama trail over Lake Balaton

Although our path continues right, it is worthwhile first taking a short detour to the left on the S sign to a comfortable viewpoint, preparing us for the next kilometer. An impressive view unfolds: from the middle of the peninsula, we look down on the western basin of Lake Balaton. (On the nature trail, we can also descend to the foot of a cliff, where a cave can be found.) Continuing northward along a narrow single-track path on the S sign, we hike above Lake Balaton. From Csúcs Hill, we return to Apáti Hill via Nyereg Hill, but by an extraordinary route! Along the gently undulating trail, the series of panorama views opening to the left invites frequent stops. Sometimes narrower, sometimes wider gaps in the trees, at times climbing on rocks, and other times directly from the path, we marvel at Lake Balaton’s turquoise waters. At Nyereg Hill, the path suddenly splits; we take the upper, right-hand, S-marked trail for better views. As we progress, we can look down more and more at Sajkodi Bay, with its small harbor hidden in reeds, colorful boats, and natural shoreline showing an idyllic image from above.

Between Nyereg Hill and Apáti Hill, we encounter wild rock formations: these are remnants of volcanism that began about 7 million years ago in the Balaton Uplands. The basaltic rock was tilted sideways by structural movements, and due to erosion, hard, more resistant rock protruded from under softer covering layers. Cracked and grooved rocks are home to yellow lichens, which appear golden from afar, enchanting the rock surface. In autumn, the colorful display of the mastic shrubs along the hiking trail further enhances this already stunning location.

Soon, we return to the junction below the lookout and follow the nature trail and the S sign, finally the unmarked path, back to the parking lot along the same route we started the hike.