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Alpine climbing in St. Gallen
Switzerland
The most beautiful alpine climbing routes in the canton of St. Gallen
Alpine climbing areas in St. Gallen
The ALPSTEIN MOUNTAINS are a subgroup of the Appenzell Alps in Switzerland and are located in Appenzell Innerrhoden, Appenzell Ausserrhoden, and St. Gallen. The Alpstein Mountains, also briefly called the Alpstein, are characterized as a charming mountain range with lush, green alpine meadows and unique lakes, and at the same time as a wild mountain range with rugged limestone peaks. Although the massif is relatively low compared to other Alpine peaks—the highest mountain is the Säntis at 2502 m—the Alpstein mountains, which are only about 30 km from Lake Constance, are relatively high compared to their surroundings. The range of climbing tours is vast and extremely diverse, which is why the Alpstein is one of the most traditional climbing areas in Switzerland. The four main starting points for climbing tours are Schwägalp (north), Wasserauen (north/east), Brülisau (east), and Wildhaus (south). Most climbs can be reached within two hours. Some approaches can be significantly shortened by cable cars, although this is quite expensive. Anyone planning a longer stay should buy the SAC climbing guide Alpstein by Werner Jüng, which describes about 930 routes between 2a and 8a+.
A very well-known and beautiful easy climb is offered by the Schafbergkante on the Wildhus Schafberg. It leads in 12 pitches, mostly between 4a and 5a, always along the west edge over several bulges to the summit of the Schafberg wall. The crux is in the 8th pitch on a vertical wall (5c+/5a, A0). In the upper part, you can also scramble up a lot on the running rope. The summit of the Wildhus Schafberg can then be reached on foot in about 10 minutes.
A somewhat more difficult climb awaits you on the route Sandüürliweg on the Schafberg wall. Here, you have to overcome climbing difficulties from 5c+ to 6b. The route offers seven beautiful and very well-protected pitches, mostly along water grooves.
Anyone who likes to romp in the classic and rather spartan routes on the Kreuzberge (mountain range with 9 peaks) should rent a room for a few days at the Berggasthof Bollenwees. There are dormitories or rooms and very good cuisine. Alternatively, you can also stay at the beautiful Hundsteinhütte (SAC hut) or Roslenalp (overnight stays only possible on weekends). On the homepage of the Hundsteinhütte, you will find all necessary information about prices, opening hours, etc.
Botanists and collectors of rest climbs are recommended the Direct South Dihedral (VI+/VI-, A0) on the Second Kreuzberg. Although the route, with its much grass, is not among the most beautiful rest climbs technically, it is challenging, wild, and due to the gentle renovation with one bolt hanger at the belay and about two intermediate bolt hangers per pitch, it is an exciting alpine undertaking. The approach to the start over steep grass and rocky terrain is also demanding and can become very dangerous when wet.
Another classic that must not be missing from the list of climbs is the route Toblerone on the Girenspitz South Wall, the Matterhorn of the Alpstein. The elegant mountain is climbed via the slabby and increasingly vertical south wall over 10 pitches. Because the mountain strongly resembles the Toblerone chocolate, the route probably got its name.
Ein Grillplatz der Extraklasse. Verschiedene Feuerstellen, Spielplatz, ein Kiosk und die Säntisthur ...
Professional climber Michi Wohlleben at the opening of a new route on the Trinity Wall
Video: Actiontalk TV
In bad weather, it is also possible to retreat to the hall in St. Gallen (Climbing Center St. Gallen).
Also worth mentioning, even though there are only single-pitch routes there, is the Galerie climbing garden, which is located directly above Lake Walen east of the town of Amden. With the breathtaking view of the lake and the Churfirsten, the Galerie is probably one of the most beautiful climbing gardens in Switzerland. Additionally, very nicely located and especially suitable on hot summer days due to its shady location, is the Brochne Burg climbing garden, located next to Lichtenstein. There are also some easy routes for children where they can easily climb up.
The offer for boulderers in the canton of St. Gallen, however, is rather moderate. There are some artificial areas around the municipality of Herisau and of course, you can also boulder in the Climbing Center St. Gallen.
Rock
You climb mostly on very compact limestone. The best rock awaits you at the Äscher.
Pause tours in extreme rock
Alpstein:
- Rot Turm & Hundstein south face & south chimney, VI-, A0 or VII, 150 m and 200 m
- Second Kreuzberg direct south chimney, VI-, A0 or VI+, 300 m
Churfirsten:
- Zuestoll Old South Face, VI-, A1 or VII-, 300 m
Video: Gerhard Wiedemann
Alpine climbing guide for St. Gallen
- Switzerland plaisir EAST 2015. Author: Sandro von Känel, Publisher: edition filidor, ISBN: 978-3-906087-49-8 (German, French, English)
- Switzerland extreme EAST 2013. Author: Sandro von Känel, Publisher: edition filidor, ISBN: 978-3-906087-43-6 (German, English)
- Switzerland plaisir SELECTION 2012. Author: Sandro von Känel, Publisher: edition filidor, ISBN: 978-3-906087-40-5 (German, French, English)
- Climbing guide Churfirsten. Author: Thomas Wälti, SAC-Verlag, 1996, ISBN: 9783859021488 (German)
- Climbing guide Alpstein: Säntis / Kreuzberger / Hundstein / Altmann. Author: Werner Küng, SAC-Verlag, 3rd edition (2011), ISBN-10: 3859023292
- Climbing guide Best of keepwild - Switzerland. Authors: Christoph Blum, Daniel Silbernagel, Publisher: Panico. 2nd edition (2013), ISBN: 978-3-95611-011-5 (German)
Security
There is a wide range of very well secured routes, but also some historic routes, especially at the Kreuzbergen. In some places, one must accept long runouts. In general, it is recommended to carry camming devices for additional protection. The very well secured areas include Stoss, Bollenwees and Äscher. Usually, no mobile protection devices are needed here. It is best to get information about protection directly in the respective tour.
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