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Beginner-friendly sport climbing route
moderate
Distance 4.8 km
6:30 h
570 m
570 m
1,850 m
1,290 m
At the sunny southeast wall slab at Mattstogg high above Amden, many sport climbers have already gained their first experiences with multi-pitch climbs. The eight routes are mostly in the range of 5a and 5b. Even if you do not regularly train in the climbing gym, you will spend a nice day here, provided you get used to friction climbing. More than usual, sensitive footwork is required here. Athletic passages are nowhere to be found. The terrain around the starting points is confusing and steep, so less suitable for climbing families, and those who are not keen on abseiling have to make compromises, as the abseil route somehow belongs here.
Author’s recommendation
No supply options along the way. In Amden, you can end the day at the «Café Löwen» or on the terrace of the «Sonne».
Difficulty
V+5b
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
1,850 m
Lowest point
1,290 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
Approach
450 m,
1:15 h
Wall height
130 m
Climbing length
180 m,
2:30 h
Descent
450 m,
1:00 h
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
12
Track types
Forested/wild trail
1.5 km
Path
2.5 km
Unknown
795 m
Safety information
The southeast wall slab mostly consists of homogeneous limestone. The rock is of the best quality. Orientation requires some attention because the routes lie very close to each other at times. On the last pitch of «Dä Mond», acoustic communication with the climbing partner is no longer possible. The terrain at the base of the wall is not family-friendly.Roadbook
- Take the Mattstock chairlift from Amden Dorf up to Niederschlag (marked in yellow).
- On foot through the Bannwald and over pastures to the alpine buildings at Walau (marked in yellow).
- Ascending on the track to its end at point 1316 (marked in yellow).
- On a mountain path to a terrain terrace and up to the base of the southeast wall slab (marked red-white, T2).
- In the area of «Obloch», leave the mountain path and follow trail traces up the grassy slope to the foot of the rock wall (unmarked, T3).
- Cross the first rise at a weakness point, then keeping right, follow the trail traces somewhat confusingly to the start of the route «Dä Mond» (unmarked T4).
- Climb five pitches up to below the ridge and to the top belay of the abseil route (5b, 5a obligatory).
- Abseil 7x25 m.
- Return on foot to the route start (T4).
- Return on the approach path to the chairlift top station and take it back to the village Amden.
Rest stop
Nearby
Top Partner
Waypoint
Start point
End point
Low point
High point
Forecast
Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
show {x} more
Photo
Video
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
From «Ziegelbrücke, South Station» there is a bus connection every half hour to «Amden, Dorf». From the stop at the post office, it is only a few minutes on foot to the valley station of the Mattstock chairlift.Directions
By car on the A3 to Weesen, then steeply up the main road to the sunny terrace of Amden.Parking
Paid parking is available in the middle of the village opposite the bus stop at the post office. From there, too, the valley station of the chairlift can be reached on foot in a few minutes.Coordinates
SwissGrid
2'729'481E 1'224'830N
DD
47.161756, 9.146345
DMS
47°09'42.3"N 9°08'46.8"E
UTM
32T 511092 5223150
w3w
///jobs.roughness.glitz
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Equipment
For orientation, the climbing guide Plaisir Ost is recommended. Solid trekking shoes are sufficient for the approach. We climbed with about a dozen quickdraws and a 60m double rope. The route is excellently secured. You can leave nuts and friends at home.Localization
Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
Difficulty
V+5b
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Distance
4.8 km
Duration
6:30 h
Ascent
570 m
Descent
570 m
Highest point
1,850 m
Lowest point
1,290 m
Weather at the starting point
Statistics
Maps and trails
Nothing selected - click and drag in the elevation profile to zoom
Distance
Duration
Ascent
Descent
User Questions