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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Appenzell Alps

Schafberg wall (1,908 m) Schafberg ridge VI

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  • Overview image topo of the climbing tour Schafbergkante.
    Overview image topo of the climbing tour Schafbergkante.
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, alpenvereinaktiv.com

Selected alternatives for you
    The Schafberg ridge offers 10 pitches of classic ridge climbing in the beautiful Alpstein. After the climb, you cruise down from Gamplüt to Wildhaus with a scooter.
    difficult
    Distance 8.7 km
    7:30 h
    820 m
    820 m
    1,908 m
    1,100 m
    5b, 5c+, or even VI? You can find all these ratings in reputable literature for the Schafberg ridge. Rating difficulties are tricky! Normally, the first ascensionists determine the difficulty grade of their route. But this doesn’t work here on the Schafberg ridge because the first ascenders are unknown. What bad luck!

    The climb starts rather grassy and loose. But soon follows the first nice climbing meters on good limestone. Some sections are a little worn from many ascents. The crux in the 6th pitch is a steep wall demanding technical climbing on small edges. The well-protected grade six can be eased with zero friends. Some cracks in walls offer variety, but you repeatedly climb very exposed over ledges on the ridge. Equally exposed, it continues from the exit, 15 minutes to the summit. With two abseils, you reach the meadow with the sheep.

    The puzzle of the difficulty rating remains open. First ascenders: please report!

    Author’s recommendation

    After the Schafberg ridge, you rent a scooter at Gamplüt (chairlift mountain station) and enjoy a leisurely cruise down to the starting point.
    Difficulty
    VI5cT4 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Schafberg wall, 1,908 m
    Lowest point
    Wildhaus, 1,100 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
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    Sep
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    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    500 m, 1:30 h
    Wall height
    320 m
    Climbing length
    400 m, 4:00 h
    Descent
    820 m, 2:00 h
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling
    Protection
    sporadic bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    First ascent
    unknown / renovated 1994

    Track types

    Asphalt 54.37%Dirt road 17.14%Path 16.83%No marked trail 5.07%Traces of trail 6.56%
    Asphalt
    4.8 km
    Dirt road
    1.5 km
    Path
    1.5 km
    No marked trail
    444 m
    Traces of trail
    574 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Bergrestaurant Gamplüt

    Safety information

    On the Schafberg ridge, you really have to climb well beyond the protection, and you should definitely have some Friends and nuts on your harness.

    Tips and suggestions

    You will find 50 more classics in the Eastern Alps, many ridges as well, in the climbing guide and photo book "Classics - 50 climbing routes" by Stefan Stadler.

    Roadbook

    Approach: We start from the large parking lot in Wildhaus on a paved road heading north uphill. After only about 300 meters we turn left onto a footpath toward Gamplüt. Shortly before the chairlift mountain station, we follow a forest road to the east (right) and can soon shortcut a hairpin turn. At the next sharp right bend (1420 m) we leave the gravel road again and walk along the forest edge to the north (left). In the sparse forest, there is always a trail in the same direction and we climb over a stone wall/fence. Over scree, we reach the foot of the small west wall and follow it to the west (left). After a short while, it goes steeply upwards in a gully, then east (right) with easy climbing (I) to the start on a ledge (1600 m).

    The topo describes the climbing route in detail. From the exit, continue along the ridge for 15 minutes to the summit with a summit logbook.

    Descent: From the summit logbook, we climb down a few meters north to the first abseil station. Here we abseil 15 meters down to a muddy path. We follow this exposed and tricky path in wet conditions westwards (left) through mountain pines to the second abseil station. We abseil another 15 meters down a gully to the sheep pastures. Both abseil stations can alternatively be downclimbed at grade 3. Then just a short pathless section north to the hiking trail, and along it past a shepherd’s hut to Gamplüt. The easy cruising with the scooter downhill to Wildhaus is something you definitely shouldn’t miss.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Einstieg Schafbergkante
    Schafbergwand (1.908 m)
    Bergrestaurant Gamplüt

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    From the easily accessible Feldkirch train station (Austria) take the regional train RJX168 to Buchs and then bus 790 to Wildhaus village. The connection is tightly scheduled.

    Directions

    We leave the Rhine valley motorway A14 at the Feldkirch exit, drive through Feldkirch westward and cross the border at Bendern-Haag into Switzerland. Then continue via the village of Gams to Wildhaus.

    Parking

    Behind the church is the very large Chuchitobel parking lot.

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'744'996E 1'230'042N
    DD
    47.205401, 9.352567
    DMS
    47°12'19.4"N 9°21'09.2"E
    UTM
    32T 526701 5228050
    w3w 
    ///ahead.excusing.expose
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing guide Switzerland Plaisir EAST from Filidor-Verlag / SAC guide "Climbing in the Alpstein" by Werner Küng

    Author’s map recommendations

    The map in the alpenvereinaktiv app is perfectly adequate for this tour.

    Equipment

    Complete alpine climbing equipment with a 50 m single rope / 8 quickdraws, 2 of which are alpine / set of nuts / Friends 0.5 - 2 / 2 slings

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    VI5cT4 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    8.7 km
    Duration
    7:30 h
    Ascent
    820 m
    Descent
    820 m
    Highest point
    1,908 m
    Lowest point
    1,100 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Cultural/historical interest Geological highlights Summit route Ridge Abseil Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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