Schafberg wall (1,908 m) Schafberg ridge VI
The climb starts rather grassy and loose. But soon follows the first nice climbing meters on good limestone. Some sections are a little worn from many ascents. The crux in the 6th pitch is a steep wall demanding technical climbing on small edges. The well-protected grade six can be eased with zero friends. Some cracks in walls offer variety, but you repeatedly climb very exposed over ledges on the ridge. Equally exposed, it continues from the exit, 15 minutes to the summit. With two abseils, you reach the meadow with the sheep.
The puzzle of the difficulty rating remains open. First ascenders: please report!
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Bergrestaurant GamplütSafety information
On the Schafberg ridge, you really have to climb well beyond the protection, and you should definitely have some Friends and nuts on your harness.Tips and suggestions
You will find 50 more classics in the Eastern Alps, many ridges as well, in the climbing guide and photo book "Classics - 50 climbing routes" by Stefan Stadler.Roadbook
The topo describes the climbing route in detail. From the exit, continue along the ridge for 15 minutes to the summit with a summit logbook.
Descent: From the summit logbook, we climb down a few meters north to the first abseil station. Here we abseil 15 meters down to a muddy path. We follow this exposed and tricky path in wet conditions westwards (left) through mountain pines to the second abseil station. We abseil another 15 meters down a gully to the sheep pastures. Both abseil stations can alternatively be downclimbed at grade 3. Then just a short pathless section north to the hiking trail, and along it past a shepherd’s hut to Gamplüt. The easy cruising with the scooter downhill to Wildhaus is something you definitely shouldn’t miss.
Schafbergwand (1.908 m)
Bergrestaurant Gamplüt
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
From the easily accessible Feldkirch train station (Austria) take the regional train RJX168 to Buchs and then bus 790 to Wildhaus village. The connection is tightly scheduled.Directions
We leave the Rhine valley motorway A14 at the Feldkirch exit, drive through Feldkirch westward and cross the border at Bendern-Haag into Switzerland. Then continue via the village of Gams to Wildhaus.Parking
Behind the church is the very large Chuchitobel parking lot.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Equipment
Complete alpine climbing equipment with a 50 m single rope / 8 quickdraws, 2 of which are alpine / set of nuts / Friends 0.5 - 2 / 2 slingsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions