Alta Via dei Monti del Sole from Le Rosse Alte to Forcella Franche

Premise

I included "my vision" of the route with descriptions clearly copied from (or very similar to) those of the 5 preparatory outings mentioned in the first sheet of this itinerary.

I wanted to include only what I saw and what I "felt", without "seeking alignments" with what is written in the consulted and here recommended books.

Consequently, the following is a "snapshot as of 2019", and it fully applies only up to that moment.

When I use the term "guide" in this long report, I refer to → "Monti del Sole e Piz de Mezodì" – Anthology curated by Pietro Sommavilla and Luca Celi.

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From Le Rosse Alte to Casera Nusieda Alta and the Forzèla de le Canevùze (Forcella del Sass di Peralòra)

Up to Casera Nusieda Alta the path is always obvious.

Soon after the start you pass the junction to the normal route to Piz de Vedana and, at a more than relaxed pace, in about half an hour you reach a junction between two variants both leading to Casera Nusieda Alta.

At the junction, there should be two signs indicating "CASERA NUSIEDA NORMALE" and "CASERA NUSIEDA ATTREZZATO" (I wrote should be because over time I noticed these signs disappear and reappear).

In this GPS recording I followed the normal variant (left, ascent direction), but the equipped one is not much more: a couple of short cables on exposed passages and a ladder on a small rock step.

At Casera Nusieda Alta continue crossing the meadow northeast on the right side of the hut (if you go left towards northwest you enter the route of the Cengia dei Contrabbandieri).

Re-entering the woods, the ground track reappears, you bypass a ridge and enter Val Nusieda.

Here the path remains evident up to a large old landslide that erased some dozens of meters; now there is a faint track (even more than one) that crosses the landslide section slightly above and rejoins the original route.

Before the Forzèla de le Canevùze the footprint of the path on the ground becomes (in a grassy area) barely visible, but without major difficulties you reach the photogenic side view of the famous tilted rock mushroom of Sass di Peralora: the photogenic time, however, is in the early afternoon, and on this south-to-north hike you must pass before.

From the hut to the saddle there are some very faded red signs (a couple also white-red in CAI style) without regular frequency. 

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From Forzèla de le Canevùze (Forcella del Sass di Peralòra) to Forzelón de le Mughe

The first meters from Sass di Peralora are on a broad ridge immediately with a good slope; then the ridge narrows and becomes a crest with some exposed steps on the west left side; some detours on the ridge crest can be made to find better panoramic photo spots.

In a few minutes you arrive under the south edge of Zimón de Peralòra (I use the guide’s toponymy because the Tabacco map reverses the names of some peaks here).

At this point you could say the "upper part" of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole begins, and from here the official marking of red dots and white-light blue bands begins, which accompanies you until the meeting with the Cresta della Mussaia between the two summits of Piz de Mezodì (there is a lot in between...).

To follow the high route and traverse towards Forzelón de le Mughe, you go around "el Zimón de Peralòra" to the right east.

You descend about 3/4 meters into the woods with a couple of turns and continue for a good stretch almost flat.

Here the guide writes “Be careful not to lose the way!” with an exclamation point.

The track on the ground is noticeable and there are various signs, but you must not lose concentration because you are on a wide ledge suspended very high: everything is (relatively) comfortable, but if you deviate from the optimal line it is easy to end up in places from which it would be hard to recover.

After the first part in the woods, the path leads over some gravel and then through dwarf pine cuts to a nearly 3-meter descending step of almost first grade difficulty.

After the jump you reach a beautiful cirque to cross in a semicircle until you bypass a rib: here there are some exposed steps not protected downhill by dwarf pines or others.

Bypassing the rib, there are still some unprotected steps (but always on a decent base, never suspended) and you arrive below the key challenging section: a partly equipped and very varied couloir – should be about fifty or a little more meters of elevation gain: indicative measure because here the GPS struggles.

The guide indicates climbing difficulty of grade II and I try to describe it by "sections":

1. Steep but not too much cut through dwarf pines up to the first rocks with red marks
2. Initial rocks with grade I tendency with a couple of single grade II moves to the right to slip into a narrow and "crooked" notch
3. In the very wet notch there is an aid cable on the right that eases many problems given the general slipperiness with some non-trivial small jumps; the cable ends on a small grassy ledge
4. From the ledge you notice higher up a chain on a steep (very steep) grassy slope, and between there are other rocks with some grade II moves, but – unlike point 2 – here the moves are consecutive, and it will probably be difficult to find perfectly dry holds
5. You reach the chain and hang on it until the exit

From the top of the couloir in a very few meters you arrive below a rock band, traverse right over dwarf pine cuts and finally, always in the dwarf pine cuts, ascend with some turns to Forzelón de le Mughe. 

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From Forzelón de le Mughe to Forzèla de la Caza Granda (Forcella della Caccia Grande)

From the arrival point at Forzelón de le Mughe proceed a few steps north (right) along the ridge of the large saddle and, following the first very evident red signs, begin to descend diagonally northwest until below the cliff of Fornel – soon finding a large white and light blue triangle of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole and then, alternating with red signs, the typical white-light blue bands.

You bypass the western spur and start walking in “ledge or bench mode”, crossing a wide rocky channel and then ascending above the ridge that crosses the direction of the high route and connects Mont Alt and Col dei Séch – this last section requires orientation attention among the various turns and changes in terrain, despite the numerous signs and the well-visible ridge halfway.

From the crest arrival notch you immediately find two key points well marked in the guides.

The first is a steep descending channel (perhaps about 20 meters of elevation loss or a little more) where, in my opinion, the biggest problem is not the slope but the stony dirty ground: be careful about those below.

From the base of the channel, in less than two minutes you reach the second point: a very narrow and irregular cornice, on a tilted and very exposed slab, with a slack metal cable anchored on somewhat shaky plates.

I did not hang on the cable; I traversed normally placing my feet (or rather part of the feet given the minimal footholds) on the cornice pieces, and hands pressing the cable against the wall so I could grab it in an emergency if I felt any “dizziness” below.

Here in a group with your own rope you can pass more safely.

Now you traverse long with upward tendency, with a couple of leaps of some tens of meters each on rocky ground, finishing below the super spectacular first white-yellow wall of Croda Bianca: the total altitude gain should be around 90/100 meters just below the center of the wall.

Then continue with a final jump of about thirty meters elevation gain and turn left below the small saddle allowing to cross the west spur of Croda Bianca: it is the third key point indicated by all guides.

The start for the rock jump is located just after one of the many white-light blue signs at a point where the ground track continues right under the vertical of the small saddle and even a little beyond.

I went straight on the track, and I saw that you don’t ascend the vertical, but – turning back a bit further always relative to the vertical – I clearly saw the ascent line, because if you advance a bit you can see the guiding signs on the rock.

Having returned a few meters with clarity, I climbed without problems.

The guides indicate grade II or III moves: in my opinion, the two/three central more difficult moves do not reach the third and are on solid holds, but maybe it is better to write III for those doing it descending in the opposite direction so that they can feel more prepared and cautious.

At the end there remains a very exposed diagonal ascent probably about ten meters from the base, but the really technical elevation gain is less.

On the other side of the saddle opens “another Croda Bianca” with another spectacular “very pale” wall.

You see the Forzèla de la Caza Granda and the easy ledges leading to the final dwarf pine cut.

From the saddle on the west edge of the just reached Croda Granda you don’t descend trivially onto the easy ledges: good attention is needed on still exposed rocks and, from this side, dirty with stones.

Now you circle at the base of the “pale wall”, pass a big white-light blue triangle of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole, and finally (always following the signs) leave the ledge line and, descending, enter the final climb in a dwarf pine corridor to the Forzèla de la Caza Granda or Forcella della Caccia Grande.

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From Forzèla de la Caza Granda (Forcella della Caccia Grande) to Forzèla dei Pón (Forcella dei Pom)

Start in a dwarf pine cut and immediately pass under a cave “adapted” as a bivouac which is good to know for emergencies during long crossings in this area.

In 5 minutes from the cave you reach the head of a long couloir – mixed compact rock and stones – to descend: “according to my GPS” about 115 meters of elevation loss on a good constant slope requiring caution.

You exit to the left (corresponding to one of the many white-light blue signs of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole) through a short dwarf pine cut that introduces another steep descent (still in dwarf pines) of about 30 meters elevation loss.

Here starts a system of beautiful ledges and tracks heading towards Forzèla dei Pón: follow carefully the ever-present red dots and white-light blue signs; look ahead for them but also check back.

There are several narrow passages with, in my opinion, only one really delicate due to exposure, inclination and “little cleaning of the walking base or almost climbing”.

At some point, a sharp pull where you have to use your hands marks the start of the ascent towards Forzèla dei Pón: this ascent is not a single solution like the descent from Forzèla de la Caza Granda, but proceeds in leaps with STEEP pulls (hands also used) of various lengths alternated with more comfortable sections; “according to my GPS” about 160 meters total elevation to gain.

A few meters before Forzèla dei Pón you will notice on the left a cave possibly used as an emergency bivouac.

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From Forzèla dei Pón (Forcella dei Pom) to Bivacco Umberto e Matilde Valdo

Compared to the ascent, keep in mind that in this descent the red or white-light blue markings are a bit less identifiable: always sufficient not to get lost, but more attention is needed, and as always look ahead and recheck glances backward.

The general direction of the route is very simple: you stay on the “large elevated ledge” on the right orographic side above Val Feruch.

Particularly, however, the good track is quite winding in various sections, and since it runs on the edge of very steep slopes you have to stay focused.

The descent from Forzèla dei Pón starts with a nice steep section among rocks and grassy strips until exiting the high narrow pass of Val Feruch.

Then turn right and with a long diagonal near a rocky band descend above the head of a wide, long and steep slab.

Down the slab with some final steps where hands are useful: a technical passage can be avoided by rappelling through a characteristic hole in the rock (there is also another small hole in the rock forming an “hourglass” useful for possible belay if someone were in force and/or clarity crisis).

From here it is a series of more or less steep diagonals and with more or less small jumps: obviously for all there will be a steep and wide cut among dwarf pines on rock base and another channel always with rock bottom (initially on stones and then compact).

With another diagonal you reach a group of compact descending rocks where you need to climb a very short exposed passage but well supported: in descent it goes well while in ascent it would be more difficult to interpret for those who don’t know it (for once it is better going down).

From here continue until you enter a small wood and exit the other side with a comfortable little climb leading to the ledge section connecting to Circo della Borala and then to Bivacco Valdo.

The ledge is certainly exposed but not worrying except for a short unstable section corresponding to a small landslide.

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From Bivacco Umberto e Matilde Valdo to Forcella Zana (Forzèla de Iéna or Forzèla de l'Ón)

Medium difficulty: I would say it is perfect as the start of the second stage of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole tackled south-north.

Start with a small climb in the woods, then grassy ledge up to a very steep pull on grass-soil ground forcing to grab with hands: however, this steep is well contained between a clean cut of dwarf pines that protects well.

You reach a small saddle where “the exposure of the route turns” and immediately get a nice view of the Piz de Mezodì group.

From here proceed almost always with ups and downs through well-made dwarf pine cuts until the final descent to Forcella Zana: there is a chain in a short exposed passage.

Just before the arrival at Forcella Zana, you spot also the Bus de le Neole in the upper Val Pegolèra and have a perfect view of the ascent that from Forcella Zana leads to the summits of Piz de Mezodì.

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From Forcella Zana (Forzèla de Iéna or Forzèla de l'Ón) to Forcella Franche with deviations for Piz de Mezodì West and Piz de Mezodì North (also Piz de Mezzodì in other transcriptions)

Arriving at Forcella Zana you climb straight up the slope in front: from here you find many red dots, some arrows, a couple of "875" CAI numbers, and a good number of large (in size) white-light blue signs typical of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole (also in triangle form indicating the passage of a high route).

Several cairns also, very useful in the second part of this great ridge-creston carrying to the various peaks of Piz de Mezodì.

Be careful though: there are many because it is long, but there is not a sign every 10 meters.

You must always keep your eyes both short and medium distance to evaluate the track on the ground and to spot the next sign which will hardly be the same as the previous: Red sign? White light blue? Arrow? Cairn?

The start from Forcella Zana is characterized by a dwarf pine cut (with various turns) of decent length and not long after you reach a couloir that in the guide is indicated as grade II: here the rock is solid, clean and with good holds.

Then in general it is always challenging, but very beautiful and varied for good hikers, with a long series of couloirs, traverses, small ledges of all kinds, still brief dwarf pine cuts, varied base pulls, etc.

You reach Cima al Sass or Zima de le Masiére, which is a “platform” (double summit) a few meters higher than the ridge/crest whose line you are following just under the ridge.

From here onwards increase attention because there is the section with “the dirtiest terrain” and you might feel a bit of tiredness: various slippery points due to gravel/stones that “coincidentally” happen where there is exposure.

With a final grassy bottom couloir you reach a grassy little saddle on the summit crest connecting the two west and north summits of Piz de Mezodì.

Just below the little saddle go left to the West Summit of Piz de Mezodì and right to the North Summit or Zima de la Crós.

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Detour to the West Summit of Piz de Mezodì – this detour is not part of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole and for this reason there are no red dots or other white-light blue signs along the entire section.

The first meters are perhaps not very intuitive, but you must follow a grassy strip circumventing, on an exposed climb to the right, the first rock jump with a couple of turns – the first short diagonal of this kind of “ZETA” is to the left (the photo here posted 34 of 36 with superimposed line should clarify this first passage).

Then follow the cairns along a beautiful ridge (sometimes narrow, with a more exposed passage due to a protruding rock) up to the easy final rocks interpretatable as you wish (and noticeable from the two different ascent and descent lines of my GPS track) → cairn on the summit.

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From the little saddle dividing for the West Summit go in the opposite direction for the North Summit following the ridge (just below in the first part) until passing the descent junction to Forcella Franche, and finally reach the great Cross of the North Summit of Piz de Mezodì or Zima de la Crós (short and quite easy, compared to the rest, this second detour).

Now return to the descent junction at Forcella Franche (where the white-light blue signs of the Alta Via dei Monti del Sole end) and descend via Cresta della Mussaia.

This is a ridge of a different “mold” from the previous one, not easy for a beginner but easy for those who have made it this far: it is a real CAI route well marked.

You arrive at another saddle where you turn left (towards the head of Van de Fòra) where the most treacherous section of the entire descent is.

Turning right, with a complicated route different from that traced on the Tabacco map, you would reach the upper outlet of Bus de le Neole: very beautiful, but … it is another hike.

Our left section is instead a steep and very dirty and slippery slope; there are clear CAI white red signs guiding the best line, but care is needed: even a simple “slide” while standing still can cause injury.

Immediately a gentle climb leads to a pass (Col dei Camòrz or Forzèla del Contrón) where you enter the Van or Busa del Contrón de Inte where you descend into Dolomitic environment.

Then the finale begins with a long section of wide cuts between dwarf pines: walking base always wide and marked CAI, but “disturbed” by dwarf pine roots – not difficult but you can’t go fast.

Finally woods on varied ground, from very easy to some climbs requiring restraint.