Csallóköz wandering

Itinerary:

• Exiting Komárom railway station, we turn right onto the Rákóczi Ferenc embankment and cross the nearby Erzsébet Bridge that connects the two parts of the city (and two countries).
• On the other side, we quickly reach the city center, where we turn right onto Palatínova Street. The bike path turns back towards the Danube on Lehár Street (Lehářova), then, upon reaching Dunajské nábrežie, it turns left to bypass the center of Komárom.
• If we want to see Komárom’s city center, we stay on Palatínova Street, which leads straight to Klapka György Square. Continuing a bit further on Palatínova, on the right side opens Pevnostný Rad, this street leads down beside the Officers' Pavilion to the bike path along the Danube. The street along the Danube and then the Váh later becomes Elektrárenská cesta. At the restaurant, we keep right on the right bank of the Váh (in the direction of flow), from where the bike path leads straight, without stops, to Gúta (about 22 km).
• In Gúta (Kolárovo), we cross the main road, then continue straight on Petőfi Street (Petőfiho rad) to the notable wooden bridge on the right and the mill beneath it.
• Turning slightly left from the mill, we continue on Mostová Street, then leave the roundabout at the second exit and cycle on the 1455 road for a longer section.
• A few kilometers later at the junction, we turn right towards Bogyarét (Bodzianske Lúky) on road 1451, then pass through the village heading to Ekecs (Okoč). Where the road turns left at a right angle, the bike path continues straight to the merged village Apácaszakállas (Opatovský Sokolec), somewhat shortening the route compared to the road (but we can also stay on the road as the bike path is of poorer quality).
• Whether we go on the road or bike path, upon reaching the merged village, we turn right. The next village is Nyárasd (Topoľníky) on road 561, then from the 561 road inside the municipality, we turn towards Vásárút (Trhová Hradská). In Vásárút, we cross the picturesque Tőkési branch of the Danube (Klátovské rameno), then via Felsővámos (Horné Mýto), we arrive at Dunatőkés (Dunajský Klátov) - before the village, we turn left onto road 507.
• In the village, we take a detour to the water mill (vodný mlyn) as indicated by signs (turning left from the main road).
• From Dunatőkés, we cycle to Dunaszerdahely (Dunajská Streda) on road 507 (mostly on a bike path alongside the road).
• From Dunaszerdahely, we continue on road 507 to Bős (Gabčíkovo), then to the hydroelectric power plant.
• We cross the Danube on the dam and then turn right. After a few hundred meters, we can cycle up the left-hand embankment where the bike path runs.
• On the left is the beautiful floodplain forest along the Old Danube branch within Slovakian territory. Passing through Nagybodak (Bodíky), we continue along bike paths that sometimes approach and sometimes diverge from the road until we reach Vajka (Vojka nad Dunajom).
• From Vajka, we cross the Danube by ferry to Keszölcés (Kyselica).
• Without entering the village, we cycle on the Bősi-felvízcsatorna embankment to Csölösztő (Čilistov), then cycle beside Hotel Kormorán into Somorja (Šamorín).
• After visiting the beautiful Reformed Church, we return to the channel and cycle along it to the neighboring village, Gutor (Hamuliakovo).
• Shortly before the village, after a worthwhile detour to its remarkable church, we find the bicycle ferry station.
• We cross by ferry to the dam at Dunacsún (Čunovo). From the dam, we head towards Dunacsún, then upon reaching the Szivárgó Channel, we turn left onto the embankment road.
• We cross the channel on the bridge and simultaneously return to Hungary. After the bridge, we turn left and cycle on the scenic bike path to Rajka.

Detailed tour description:

Where is Kukkónia?

The Csallóköz region stretching from Bratislava to Komárom supposedly got its pleasant-sounding name in the time of the Tatar invasion, based on the idea that locals imitated the croaking of the red-bellied newt to warn each other of enemies in the reeds. However, the once wild water world surrounded by the Danube, Little Danube, and Váh has essentially disappeared today. Though important habitats remain sporadically by the Old Danube branch and the smaller network near Szigetköz and along the winding Little Danube, Csallóköz today is one of Slovakia’s most fertile areas, mainly an extensive agricultural region.

Komárom’s rich merchant past, celebrated by Jókai, has also faded, and only remnants of the hundreds of water and floating mills that once existed remain. With the drainage of marshes and taming of the wild Danube's dams, the locals’ ancient occupations—fishing and gold panning—disappeared. Once, a prized fish migrating from the Black Sea to Csallóköz’s quiet waters was the giant sturgeon, so significant that fish from Csallóköz had their own stand at the Vienna fish market! Enough of looking back; let’s hop on the bike and discover this special region!

From Komárom to Gúta along the Váh

Leaving the railway station, the impressive 1892-built Erzsébet Bridge immediately catches the eye, leading first to the Erzsébet Island and then directly into Komárom (Komárno) city center. The intellectual-cultural hub of the Slovak Hungarian community (with a significant Hungarian-speaking majority) deserves a stop, preferably a full day if time allows. Walking the historic streets, the city's former grandeur and economic weight are felt, as Komárom was an important trade center where Serbian merchants sold southern wheat. The city’s arguably most famous son, Jókai Mór (whose memory is celebrated widely in town), modeled the protagonist of "The Golden Man," Tímár Mihály, after a real Serbian merchant, János Domonkos.

Crossing the bridge, several ship cranes can be spotted in the distance, adding a unique atmosphere to this lesser-known city. The now downsized Komárom shipyard was one of Europe’s most significant river shipyards during socialism.

The city center is Klapka György Square, where the elegant town hall and the Klapka statue from the millennium year are found (reinstalled in its original place only after the regime change due to historical upheavals). The city’s perhaps best-known historical figure, Klapka György, who wasn’t born here but is famed for holding the massive fortress for two months after the surrender in Világos, only surrendering after demanding and receiving safe conduct for all his soldiers (the huge, never-captured fortress stands by the Danube and can only be visited with a guide). The famous Klapka March, now Komárom’s anthem, was composed in 1849 by Béni Egressy, the conductor of the Komárom garrison band. If lucky and visiting the main square at 10 am, noon, or 2 or 4 pm, one can see a small window open in the town hall tower and a hussar figure trumpet the march.

Even for just a coffee stop in the center, it’s worth crossing beneath the Zichy Palace next to the Town Hall into the so-called Europe Courtyard. This complex, showcasing architecture from over 40 European countries in one square, symbolizes the divided city’s search for identity after the regime change. The buildings, opened in the 2000s, house apartments and shops but also starkly reveal the emptiness of the somewhat Disneyland-like structures. Lastly, it’s worth mentioning Europe’s most famous operetta composer, Lehár Ferenc, who was also born and lived in Komárom for a long time.

Pevnostný Rad, starting from the main square next to the romantic Officers’ Pavilion built in 1863, leads us to the Danube bank. Turning left here, we follow the Danube and later the Váh, passing by the robust walls of the Komárom fortress. If we spend an extra day exploring this cultural center of Slovak Hungarians, we won’t regret it! We can follow Jókai’s footsteps, visit the Jókai-Lehár exhibition in the Zichy Palace, learn about the Danube Museum, arrange a guided tour of the fortress, and even visit the famous Monostori Fortress on the Hungarian side.

The bike path bypassing the city center along the right bank of the Váh (direction of flow) takes us over the dike top to Gúta (Kolárovo). At Komárom’s border beside the dike lies the Old Danube, where we can even swim. From here, a carefree 20-km ride awaits on the gated bike path. The Gúta mill is perhaps the most photographed sight in Csallóköz, and the area around the mill is truly picturesque: by the gently flowing Little Danube stands an 86-meter-long covered wooden bridge on wooden piles (arguably Europe’s longest wooden bridge), beneath which is the Gúta floating mill, a faithful replica of a 1920-built floating mill. A group of geese regularly appears before the mill; their distinctive honking recalls a not-so-distant past when 17 floating mills operated around Gúta (similar floating mills were used nationwide, including near Komárom on the Danube). These floating mills, except in winter, stood on the river and uniquely increased river water speed before the mill wheel located at the center of the hull. The floating mill now operates as a museum, with visits every hour (usually with Hungarian-language guided tours available). Next to the mill is a buffet, and nearby is a restaurant.

From mill to mill, from Gúta to Dunatőkés

Leaving Gúta, a longer stretch mainly on the road awaits; stock up supplies at the buffet next to the mill! Our goal is Dunatőkés (Dunajský Klátov), home to one of Csallóköz’s most beautiful natural sights: the Tőkési-Danube branch and the romantic water mill on its bank. The Tőkési-Danube branch is the right-hand side arm of the Little Danube, uniquely fed solely by groundwater and springs after the original riverbed closed. At its source, the branch doesn’t form a river but a watery lowland shaping the water flow, which becomes a significant river at the mill. Its water is so clean that freshwater sponges flourish, attracting divers. Allegedly, even Captain Cousteau’s son filmed here.

Since 1993, the valuable aquatic vegetation of the Tőkési-Danube branch and the adjacent softwood riparian forests have been protected. Visiting the Cséfálvay water mill by the riverbank is also a must in Csallóköz, as its caretaker is a descendant of the original owner, ensuring a truly special guided experience.

From ancient water mills to the gigantic dam: Dunatőkés to Bősi

In Dunatőkés, we can dine, for example right after the bridge at a restaurant by the main road, though from here we can cycle to Dunaszerdahely in one go. Dunaszerdahely (Dunajská Streda) has a strange atmosphere; the socialist-era panel buildings mostly replaced old ones, while buildings under the aegis of architect Imre Makovecz increase the contrast further. The town hall, originally built as a cafe and hotel, was sold to the city by hotel owner Károly Pleyer in 1901. Since then, the building, mostly used for offices, has been renovated and altered multiple times. As part of the 1995 Makovecz urban redesign, a tower was added above the entrance. The remodeled “new” town hall quickly became a symbol of Dunaszerdahely. The city offers accommodation, dining, and even a thermal bath that can crown a day.

Our next stop after Dunaszerdahely is Bős (Gabčíkovo) and the Bősi dam, officially the Bős–Nagymaros water step. In some respects, this is the tour’s most special section, beginning with cycling along the artificial Bősi-felvíz channel. This channel exists because Hungary unilaterally stopped the contract to build the water step system over environmental concerns, and on October 25, 1992, Slovakia also unilaterally diverted the Danube, reducing the flow into the Danube to 5–10% of the original amount. This led to the ecological disaster in the Szigetköz, later mitigated by water management interventions. The 1997 Hague International Court ruling condemned both sides for acting unilaterally.

Riding up the road over the dam, a monumental sight awaits: the gigantic structure tames a primal force, providing 8–10% of Slovakia’s annual electricity. The freely accessible observation tower offers a staggering view of the 18 m height difference between the upper and lower channels. If lucky, watch the ships pass through the locks and try the glass-floor viewing platform (guided tours, including turbine access, are available by advance booking).

Along the Bősi-felvíz channel

On the dam's far side, we descend along the road, but definitely cycle a bit on the impressive dam itself (also with a bike path), as this is where the most brutal sights unfold before our eyes. Here it is most visible that the upper channel in front of the Bősi power plant rises about 18 m above the ground level. This is protected by the huge dam where the bike path runs, so only the neighboring Baka village church tower peeks above the vast water mirror on the other side. Naturally, one cannot help but wonder what would happen if the dam broke…

We can cycle towards Vajka on the huge dam as well as on the road under the dam, but it’s best to start on the road, descend the dam, turn right, and soon cycle up to the left-hand dyke protecting the Old Danube floodplain. The bike path on this much smaller dyke leads away from the road through beautiful riparian gallery forests first to Nagybodak (Bodíky), then closer to the road and alongside the increasingly frequent weekend houses to Vajka. In Vajka (Vojka nad Dunajom), we find restaurants where we can stop if the ferry schedule allows. The free ferry adds versatility to the tour, as our goal on the other side is Somorja, with its beautifully preserved royal town church.

Also cycling on the dike on the other side of the channel, first to Csölösztő (Čilistov), from where the easiest way into Somorja (Šamorín) leads beside the Hotel Kormorán. The Reformed Church of Somorja is one of the oldest and most beautiful Gothic churches of Csallóköz, built in Romanesque style in the 13th century. Its greatest value is the beautiful frescoes created between the 13th and 14th centuries.

Returning to the significantly widened canal bank here, we find lively water life with surfers, kite surfers, sailboats, and at the cyclist rest area, we can even cool off with a swim. The reservoir visible ahead is 1–4 km wide, 16 km long, with a 53 km2 area, primarily serving flood protection. From Somorja, we soon reach Gutor (Hamuliakovo), where the Árpád-era church beautifully retains its original Romanesque style and interior frescoes. A further characteristic of the church is its visibly leaning tower due to multiple Danube floods. Also, the image of the old, fragile church tower against the dam backdrop and the immense water masses is striking.

At Gutor, we board the ferry again—this time a very cool cyclist ferry—that carries us straight to the dam on the far side, while circling the Danubiana, a modern art museum with spectacular buildings. The purpose of the Dunacsún dam is to regulate water flowing into the Old Danube, but around the dam is a water sports paradise, even featuring a rafting course.

From the dam, we head in the only possible direction towards the village (Čunovo), but do not ride onto the bridge crossing the Szivárgó Channel. Instead, before it, we turn left on the dam along a closed bike path. After a few hundred meters, we leave the dam to the right, cross the channel on a bridge, turn left, and cycle through a charming forest path to the final destination of the tour, Rajka.