Cycling tour in wild waterland

Itinerary:

• From Mosonmagyaróvár railway station, turn left and head out, cycling along Kossuth Lajos Street into the town center. At the end of the street, turn left, then after passing the hospital, continue along the Magyar Street on the right-hand side.
• Crossing a branch of the Lajta River, turn left onto the EV6 bike path heading to Rajka.
• However, after crossing the Lajta, continue straight on Kishíd Street (the bike path turns left).
• Turn left onto Pozsonyi Road, then shortly after turn right onto Béke Street.
• Turn left onto Újhelyi Imre Road, which leads us out to Feketeerdei Road; turn right here and soon leave the town.
• Crossing the Mosoni-Duna, we pass through Feketeerdő, then in the center of Dunakiliti, turn left onto Gyümölcsös Street, proceeding all the way to the weir.
• Returning to Dunakiliti, continue on the main road, passing Tejfalusziget and Doborgazsziget, arriving at Dunasziget.
• Before the Zátonyi-Duna bridge on the main road, turn left onto Szent István Road, then later onto Cikola Street, which leads to Cikolasziget.
• Cross the Zátonyi backwater, then turn left onto Nagysziget Street to make a detour to the Denkpáli shutdown and fish ladder. Nagysziget Street leads us to the dam, where we turn right, then at the first opportunity leave the dam to the left onto a wide grader road. The grader road first takes us to the weir called Kőhíd, where we cross a charming bridge over the river, then the road leads us to the Denkpáli fish ladder.
• Returning to the dam, turn left and continue along it.
• After the dam's second right angle bend, turn right onto a grader road that leads straight to Püski.
• Reaching the paved road, turn left and cycle across to Kisbodak, where you exit the roundabout at the first opportunity, cycling along Felszabadulás Street to the Breakup Memorial.
• Returning to the crossroads, take a sharp left in the village (also Felszabadulás Street), then at the village's end rejoin the grader road running along the dam (to the right).
• Cycle about 1 km along the dam, then at the first opportunity turn right onto another wide grader road, leading us to the road between Dunaremete and Püski.
• Turn left towards Dunaremete, then leave the bypass road to enter the charming village, cycling under the beautiful plane tree avenue of Arany János Street to the Sorjási weir and the Old Danube.
• Returning to the village, continue on the main road towards Lipót, where we turn off to the birdwatching tower located on the bank of the Old Danube.
• From Lipót, cycle on the road or adjacent bike path to Hédervár, then via Novákpuszta to Kimle. Crossing the Mosoni-Duna, leave the wild waterland, then turn left onto Main Road 1. Shortly after, turn right to Károlyháza, where you can board frequent trains running between Győr and Mosonmagyaróvár (Mosonmagyaróvár is just one stop - allowing you to avoid cycling on the busy Main Road 1).

Detailed tour description:

The Calvary of Szigetköz

Szigetköz (and the neighboring Csallóköz) has geographical and conservation value in that the Danube, emerging from the Alps and slowing down here, has created a vast branching system, essentially a dryland delta, within the continental landmass. Within this still somewhat impenetrable wild waterland, alongside the main branch, a complex side-branch system developed that changed continuously with the floods: floods carved new channels, while elsewhere the river built islands and sandbanks. This difficult-to-access branch system hosts incredibly rich wildlife. Although Szigetköz remains an important habitat today, unfortunately this ecological marvel largely belongs to the past due to human interventions. During the tour, we gradually reveal the negative effects of these interventions on wildlife and also how humanity tried to save what could be saved after the ecological catastrophe of Szigetköz.

How did the calvary of Szigetköz begin? Although we call the entire area Szigetköz, most of it today is agricultural land on the protected floodplain, no longer resembling its ancient natural state. Pre-regulation conditions survived somewhat only in the extensive floodplain, though modified as almost everywhere road networks were built. Cycling, however, allows us to be glad as it enables us to visit places otherwise inaccessible.

The Danube’s intricate branching system began to be regulated in 1885 due to flood protection and increasing ship traffic. Within a decade, a roughly straightened Danube bed was created, now known as the Old Danube, along with a wide, dam-bordered floodplain and the protected side, where floods no longer reach. This early human intervention caused serious damage to this fantastic ecological system, as many Danube branches were isolated outside the dams and have since silted up. Over the long term, the entire side-branch system was threatened, as although much remained, it was separated from the main branch by rock fillings in several places, so they only received significant water replenishment at medium water levels. The straightened Danube bed increased water speed, accelerating erosion and lowering water levels, especially after dredging for navigation. The slower side branches depositing sediments received less and less water from the lowering Danube, which worsened over time. However, after this early regulation, the side-branch system essentially remained in a near-natural state, albeit squeezed between dams but still representing outstanding conservation value. Szigetköz's undisturbed state was partly due to protection by border closures during the socialist decades.

This quasi-undisturbed state was overturned by the 1977 water step treaty between Hungary and Czechoslovakia and the joint works launched by both countries, followed by ongoing disputes and consequences. Hungary unilaterally withdrew from the treaty, emphasizing nature and environmental protection. On October 25, 1992, Slovakia—also unilaterally—began diverting the Danube into a huge artificial canal leading to the Gabčíkovo hydroelectric plant (Gabčíkovo main canal). This was a shocking turning point, still alive in collective memory through images of masses of dead fish in dried-up riverbeds. The canal’s opening reduced Danube inflow to about 10% of the original, causing the Danube’s water level in the upper Szigetköz to drop drastically by up to 4-5 meters! It’s no wonder the majority of the Szigetköz side-branch system dried up within days, destroying much of its wildlife.

The ecological disaster impacted not only wildlife—including forest stands—but also agriculture through the lowering of groundwater. As an emergency solution, Mosoni-Duna water was first redirected to Szigetköz, slowly refilling side branches, but this was not a permanent solution. Attempts were made in 1994 to pump Danube water across, but ultimately a weir built near Dunakiliti in 1995 brought lasting improvement to the Szigetköz side-branch system. While previous conditions have not fully returned, the large riprap dam raises Danube water higher than neighboring side branches, allowing regulation of water flow into side branches (the weir was originally part of the Gabčíkovo project, construction started in 1978 but stopped in 1989). Overflow weirs were built in the side branches to prevent water from flowing back into the Danube during low Danube levels. Artificial water replenishment does not approach the usual annual 4-5 meter water level fluctuations, and the side-branch system is cut off from the Danube by embankments to prevent water introduced artificially from flowing out.

The flood-formed and continuously cleaned Szigetköz is a thing of the past; without floods, side branches are increasingly silted. The former isolation of aquatic life has faded, as one can reach many interior areas via dams and bridges (regrettably even by car, as will be seen). Yet Szigetköz still holds unique treasures, as shown in the nature film "Wild Szigetköz – The Dryland Delta", which we can explore partly by bike but mostly by canoe.

From Mosonmagyaróvár to Dunakiliti

Mosonmagyaróvár, famed for its Austrian atmosphere and castle, and with excellent train connections, is an excellent base for a Szigetköz cycling trip. Beautifully renovated houses, excellent restaurants, and naturally the thermal baths encourage a rest day in the town at the tour's end. Heading towards Dunakiliti, first the winding Mosoni-Duna then its nearby backwater sets the wild waterland mood. Around Dunakiliti, the detour to the weir is highly recommended: here you see the waters of the Szigeti-Duna and Görgényi-Duna and can climb to the weir gate. The weir and the artificial channel with a bottom weir control water flowing by gravity into the floodplain and the Szigetköz branch system, ensuring water replenishment. The adjacent Wild Water Camping is a popular starting point for Szigetköz canoe trips; in summer you can stop at its buffet for refreshments.

On the way to the Denkpáli fish ladder

Returning to the village, continue on the road. At Dunakiliti’s border is the somewhat bizarre “modern” castle of diamond magnate and native Alajos Csebi-Pogány. Story-telling Dunasziget preserves memories of the old water world, being built on former Danube islands. Cycle through Tejfalusziget, then Doborgazsziget, finally at Dunasziget’s center turn left before the Zátonyi-Duna towards Cikolasziget. The Zátonyi-Duna is one of the quietest and relatively clean branches, definitely worth a glance from the bridge!

From Cikolasziget, continue on the grader road to the dam, then first to the weir called Kőhíd, finally to the so-called Denkpáli shutdown at the branch end. This is another weir built to protect the side-branch system. Because fish can’t ascend these artificial rapids, a quieter fish ladder was built as a bypass. Watching birds over the calm water above the weir or listening to the roaring water in the floodplain forest below captures the Szigetköz atmosphere and shows why guided canoe tours are necessary, as boating on these weirs is forbidden and life-threatening.

Another weir and the beauty of Lipót’s Old Danube

Turning left onto the dam, for a while we can enjoy views of floodplain forest on one side and vast arable fields on the other. At the dam's second right angle bend, the bike path turns right towards Püski. From here, turn left on the paved road to Kisbodak, where at the village end, we visit the so-called breakup memorial. The Old Danube breached the dam on July 15, 1954, essentially destroying the village. At the memorial, above the map, it’s worth reflecting on the floods the Danube caused before regulation, especially recalling the school map showing our country’s pre-flood regulation hydrology, with significant parts of the Great Plain seasonally flooded by rising rivers.

After some damming, return to the paved road and cycle from Dunaremete to another spectacle of the wild waterland, notably under a beautiful avenue of plane trees. Climbing the dam, turn right then left at the marked fork to the Sorjási weir, where we can again marvel long at the magical roar of the plunging water and marvel at water’s elemental force. Crossing the bridge, we can stroll to the Old Danube bank, where the ferry connecting Szigetköz to Csallóköz is unfortunately out of service indefinitely.

Returning to Dunaremete, cycle to Lipót, known for its thermal baths and bakery network, but our destination is the birdwatching tower by the Old Danube (also called Morotva Lake). This backwater formed from a Danube bend is shown on the I. military survey map from 1782-1785, proving it’s not a human-made feature. However, later it ended up on the protected side, so its water no longer refreshed during floods. Consequently, following Danube diversion, Morotva Lake completely dried up, causing the destruction of much local wildlife, including significant populations of mudminnow and bitterling. Since 1995, water supply from the side branches has allowed many species to recolonize the lake.

Farewell to the land of waters

From Lipót, head toward historic Hédervár, home to one of the country's most beautiful – though currently indefinitely closed – castles, famous for its centuries-old plane tree in the courtyard. Hédervár was founded by Knight Hedrych (Héder) with the support of King Géza II on the island near Győr – yes, this ancient settlement was once surrounded by the unruly Danube, at least seasonally. From Hédervár, cycle via Novákpuszta to Kimle, where before the Mosoni-Duna bridge, turn right to say a unique farewell to the land of waters. On the picturesque riverbank, the former Szigetköz narrow-gauge railway’s war-destroyed bridge piers protrude from the water, lending a unique atmosphere to our farewell.

Crossing the new bridge, arrive at Horvátkimle village part (Croats settled here after the depopulation caused by the Turkish siege of Vienna), then at the settlement's edge reach Main Road 1. Turn left here, then after 100 meters, turn right toward Károlyháza railway station, from where frequent trains quickly take you back to Mosonmagyaróvár (one stop) or toward Győr.