Touching the wilderness: from the narrow-gauge railway to the plateau rocks

Itinerary

• We start behind the Stimecz House on the K+ trail, which we follow until the Toldi-bikk junction.
• We turn left onto the Z trail, climbing up through the Toldi Gate.
• We make a detour to the Tar-kő on the K trail, then to the viewpoint on the K▲ trail.
• We return along the K trail, which we follow to the Cserepes-kő.
• We take a short detour to the Cserepes-kő cave accommodation via the K⩍ trail, then return on the same trail to the K trail.
• We follow the K trail to the Őr-kő meadow.
• We climb up to the Őr-kő on the K▲ trail.
• We return to the Őr-kő meadow and then head forward to join the P trail.
• The P trail takes us along the Pes-kő valley and leads to the Varróház, where we find the narrow-gauge railway stop.

Detailed description of the hike

Narrow-gauge railways around the Tárkány Basin

The ridges and valleys descending from the Bükk plateau fit into a basin whose southern edge is already marked by the mountain group highlighted by Nagy-Eged. Felsőtárkány lies in this depression, a narrow but very long settlement adapted to the landscape. Amid the turmoil of World War I, the narrow-gauge railway tracks began to be laid, but track construction truly accelerated only after the redefinition of the Trianon borders, as the Bükk forests and quarries suddenly gained importance. At its peak, the network’s length exceeded 40 km, extending along the valleys around Felsőtárkány and reaching as far as the border of Eger (to a local timber yard). The most notable episode in its history came in 1923. The locals were not enthusiastic about the tracks crossing the village, on which trains were pulled uphill by locomotives, while wagons loaded with wood or stone rolled downhill by gravity — at very high speed. To solve the dangerous situation, operators first installed bells to signal the brakemen in advance, and later horse riders with horns led the trains. But even this was not enough: in summer 1923, a train ran over three cows, and the residents of Tárkány, fed up with the situation, tore up the tracks at night. In the following weeks, 500 cubic meters of earth were moved to build a bypass line — today a cycling path runs along it.

By the 1990s, only the Stimecz-house line remained, which now provides relaxation for passengers on summer weekends. To start our hike, we need to travel to its terminal station. The precipitation falling on the Bükk plateau is absorbed deep into the limestone fissures and reemerges at springs near the foot of the plateau. Streams originating from these carve long, southern valleys into the predominantly shale-limestone terrain. Our train arrives at the Stimecz House along one of these streams, which twists around its own sediment. This used to be a timber loading place named after the wood receiver. The renovated building today serves as a key-access hostel, next to which visitors find a rest area and a rain shelter pavilion.

In the attraction of the plateau

Our distance from the plateau allows us to start the already tiring climb with a relatively gentle ascent. Right at the beginning, we tread a spectacular section (K+ trail): we are walking on the extremely narrow ridge of the Kecskor protrusion, which features educational trail signs about the forest’s wildlife, including some benches offering rest. Higher up, the ridge widens somewhat, and the plateau becomes visible through two clearings. The Pes-kő and Cserepes-kő, with their grim cliffs and high faces, command respect, providing a Carpathian atmosphere. We can spot the meadow above the Vörös-kő-lápa, which is crossed by the National Blue Trail (and later by our tour route as well).

In the next kilometer, we tackle a sweaty climb on the Tekerület path, assaulting the narrow top of Kecskor. True to its name, the hiking trail winds here, and although the southern exposure and low elevation mean oak forests still cover us, the rotten trees on the ground and the sheltered forest type are precursors of the wild forests and cliffs characteristic of the plateau and its escarpment. The point of Kecskor rises steeply above its surroundings, as its chert structure is more resistant than the surrounding rocks that decay faster and are therefore gradually "outgrown."

Near the summit, we descend along a transverse forest road to a small saddle, from where an unmarked path leads out behind vegetation to the Toldi cabin. This small log building is an excellent nomad bivouac with 3 beds and a cast-iron stove — it was renovated in 2019 with the help of civilians and the forestry. A night spent here is a lifetime experience, echoing the atmosphere of the traditional Upper Hungarian shelters (freely usable refuge huts). Once it may have served as a lumberjack’s or hunter’s cabin; today it protects hikers. Because the terrain forces long, tiring marches from the southwestern edge of the plateau to the villages, and the opposite way is especially demanding to reach the plateau, several real shelters are available here for nature visitors. Let’s appreciate this value and leave it at least as we found it; if you have any extra supplies that future visitors could use, please leave them at the site! (To get spring water you must descend to the valley.)

Gate to the heights

We ascend on a wide forest gravel track until reaching the Toldi gate — here the southern plateau edge has a smaller "threshold" because of the Toldi-bérc, making this one of the easiest ascent possibilities to the heights. The King’s road, named after this route, which today’s hiking maps also preserve, was the path King Louis I took to pass toward Gerennavár. The name Toldi may derive from the word tuldikh: according to Ármin Vámbéry's research, it means mourner, which, placed among the surrounding place names (Vörös-, i.e., Véres-kő, Őr-kő, Oltár-kő, Imó- or Ima-kő, etc.), may indicate the past presence of ancient (pagan) cultures. (Similarly, the nearby Kuklya hill’s trench system that likely protected an Iron Age settlement also points to this.)

We turn left onto the Z trail and with one last effort climb onto the Bükk plateau. The forest scene changes as the characteristic natural beech woods of this mountain section appear. On the ground lie rotten trunks, and stumps crowned with "bayonets" burning like knives brighten the many trees of different ages, all studded with moss-covered limestone nodules. The atmospheric trail leads to a junction where we take a right detour to Tar-kő (K trail). In beech forests of unchanging beauty, we cover meters upwards, and the generally increasing wind and the light glowing behind the silvery trunks signal that we are close to a high mountain edge.

Tar-kő

Finally, the K▲ trail bends out onto the grassy rocky face of Tar-kő, revealing the entire Southern Bükk, a vast, green mountainous sea. Ahead in the distance, the peak of Ódorvár watches over the exit of Hór valley, and looking eastward, the Kőlyuk-Galya rises above its surroundings. The southern escarpment of the Bükk plateau becomes clearly visible, dominated by the rock cliffs and grassy summit of Három-kő. Below Tar-kő are wide and long swaths of ugly clearcuts and traces of older logging, so we can only speak of remnants of the forest. However, westward the situation is better, and the stones do not divide the forest here (from this angle). In the background, the Mátra Kékes block appears, while below the Vár-hegy, Felsőtárkány and behind it the windows of Eger also sparkle.

The famous rocks of the plateau mostly dominate the Bükk landscape as rugged, sometimes even flat-wall cliffs. The almost vertical limestone layers lost their support due to the faster decay of the underlying shales and broke off — leaving huge, white scars behind. Walking along the rock formation, we can look down from them (from Három-kő to the disturbed Bél-kő). Their hollows, ledges, and rocky grasslands provide refuge for rich wildlife and are nesting sites for many protected birds of prey. With its altitude of 949 meters, Tar-kő is the highest natural panoramic point in the Bükk.

The ancient guardians of the wilderness

Returning to the K trail, we have an easier time with the Tar-kő slope. We reach the well-known junction and turn right on the K trail. After a short ascent, we encounter a worn fence: we stand at the gate of the Primeval Forest. Entry is forbidden, but walking along the wire fence, we also get a good view from the protection zone of this special forest old-timers. The area is part of the Forest Reserve Program, so no human intervention occurs here; natural cycles organize the forest life. Old trees (especially) break and fall during storms, and their decaying bodies nourish countless decomposers and enrich the soil as humus. Fallen trees rejuvenate the canopy, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor where saplings compete in growth. We see a forest with diverse age composition and uneven canopy layers that, thanks to its protective cover, results in outstanding species richness. The Primeval Forest was withdrawn from forestry in the early 19th century, and in 1942, local forester Lajos Király convinced its owner, Count Pallavicini, not to disturb the forest section any longer and declared it protected — since then, it has been a research site for studying the natural processes of forest ecosystems.

We circumvent the Primeval Forest on a rocky trail along the fence, an area which, since 2018, has been one of the few sites in Hungary listed in the "Primary forests of Europe" database of undisturbed or long-abandoned forests. Only a few mountain maples and lofty ashes mix with beeches here, with a small oak patch in the south. Some giant trees creak in the wind, some "only" 200 years old, yet still guardians of an ancient atmosphere: the landscape of almost untouched forests appears before us. Turning left at the other entrance of the fence, we head south in a wide arc into the Virágos-sár hollow. (Perhaps surprisingly, rails served for timber transport here as well from the early 20th century, connecting the Kukucsó valley by an incline track to the Szalajka Valley railway. This section was removed when the Primeval Forest was declared a reserve.) On a narrow path in a magical forest, we take a sharp right to avoid the Vörös-kő cliff (which is not visitable, but a trail leads to it). At the top of a short climb, we enjoy an unforgettable view: we step onto a sloping meadow on the steep side, crossing which the view captivates us. Ahead once again lies a large part of the Southern Bükk and the narrow, green-filled channel of the Vörös-kő valley.

On the edge of the plateau, just inside the wilderness border

At the end of the clearing, the forest envelops us, and with a left turn, the terrain delights us with new shapes again: we have reached the karst field of Cserepes-kő’s side. It's not easy to find the trail, as the dense canopy above and the snow-white, sometimes waist-high limestone outcrops underfoot shine strongly through the forest floor. The grim phenomenon was formed underground when acids produced by tree roots and rainwater absorbing carbon dioxide from the soil began dissolving and grooving the limestone. Later, soil washout exposed this rock surface. This grooved karst form is colloquially and fittingly called the "devil’s plow."

We cross among the rocks, where a K⩍ trail on a ridge invites us to turn right. The short detour is worth the effort as the cliff hides a cave, whose depths invite visitors with a wall and door. The Cserepes-kő cave accommodation has been used by hunters and forest visitors for centuries and was converted into a shelter in 1950. (Even outlaws frequented it in the 19th century.) Inside the 6x4 meter chamber, beds, a stove, and some equipment can be found, providing nomadic conditions necessary far from the nearest villages and mountain sites. Like the Toldi cabin, spending a night here offers a unique mountain experience, evoking the atmosphere of the Carpathian wilderness. (Only two other similar cave accommodations operate in the country, also in the Bükk.)

We return to the K trail of the National Blue Trail (whose stamp station is also located at the cave) and continue through wind-exposed beech forests in the cool plateau zone. We sneak behind the back of Pes-kő in a motionless forest, as the huge rock wall offers shelter from the wind to this shady corner. We gently ascend until a rugged cliff blocks the way — staying on the path may require using our hands for the next few meters. From the small outcrop of Pes-kő Gate, we look out toward Felsőtárkány and Nagy-Eged; below us lie continuous, closed groves covering the valleys and ridges. From Pes-kő to Őr-kő, one of the most undisturbed zones of Bükk’s natural forests covers the plateau slopes, paired with steep relief and sharp rocky shapes. The cold fogs descending from the plateau or karst springs bursting in the valleys below lend a fresh atmosphere, typical of the wild Carpathian landscape. Perhaps the country has no other region comparable to the Bükk plateau: this tiny mountain wilderness feels like a separate world, a parallel reality compared to the civilized reality below. In one of the country's most remote corners, we can only be guests, with the lush forests also frequented by large predators seeking peace (lynx and wolves).

Behind the rocks

The path zigzags on the karst field as the edge of Korcsmáros meadow shines between the trees. Soon we arrive at Őr-kő meadow, where to the right of the rest area we find the panorama of Őr-kő, accessible if we brave the K▲ trail. Surrounded by rocks forming a closing gate, at one point we climb quite steeply to reach the viewpoint, whose back is unpleasantly rough "devil's plow" rock (the last one on our hike). The view is breathtaking despite the fact that Őr-kő does not stand on the plateau edge but in the "row of Bükk rocks" in the second inland line. To the left, the mottled ridge of Király-szék with clearcuts appears, and further back the silhouette of Mátra mountain. Under us is the "terrace" behind Oltár-kő, in the distance are Felsőtárkány, Vár-hegy, and Eger. Long forested ridges decline in this direction. To the right, the ridge spotted with clearcuttings reaches to Király-szék, and beyond that the Mátra silhouette appears. The name Őr-kő may refer to an ancient function.

Farewell to the plateau

Let us say farewell to the Bükk plateau and return to the meadow, following the K trail again! We continue straight on the P trail: Oltár-kő acts as a high rim to the winds, making even the slightest noise loud in the surprisingly quiet forest. We descend along rocky slopes; the path is diverted by the protruding nose of Hegyes-kő, and our route leads through an undisturbed area. In winter, observe the fallen trunks: it’s not uncommon to see wildcat tracks in the snow, as felines often travel over fallen logs. Gradually, we reach the plateau edge and start descent in the opposite direction at a sturdy rock formation. Rocks, stone piles, and dead wood lie on the ground; we gingerly step down a steep section, avoiding exposed roots and stumps. Occasionally, the bright white cliff of Pes-kő shows through the branches, and although the slope softens, the wild character of the forest remains. Upon reaching the valley head, broken trunks offer a view: Pes-kő’s impressive rock face commands those aspiring to heights with a raised index finger.

The most beautiful of the southwestern valleys

The hiking trail turns right and follows the valley floor. We navigate among rotten trees and mud; strong winds descending from the plateau can rearrange the landscape in hours during extreme events. We arrive at the Pes-kő spring, which is reliable most of the year, and we also spot the yellow wall of the neat Pes-kő House. The cozy, well-equipped key-access cabin has no electricity; evenings spent here are characterized by candlelight, the crackling fire in the stove, and forest silence — also because it lies in a highly protected area. There is no reliable data on its construction, except that it was built as a workers’ house by the Archdiocese of Eger, then operated as a hunting lodge for a long time. Today it is maintained by the Carpathian Association’s Eger Division, and the key can be obtained and returned in Felsőtárkány after prior arrangement.

The extensive wandering ahead will truly illuminate how far the plateau is from the closest settlements — at least to the south. The surrounding long ridges and the deep valleys between them contain hidden streams: precipitation absorbed by the plateau emerges again at the valley heads’ spring chains, and in shale terrains it remains visible but disappears into the limestone’s fissure network. The Pes-kő valley curves with some large and small bends; the right bank narrows at one point to a narrow ridge, separating it from the Gyetra-patak valley. We are probably in the most beautiful stream valley in the southwestern Bükk region: forests here are not cut through by clearcuts, and wherever the stream flows above ground, it is accompanied by pleasant babbling. At the mouth of the Garasos-kő valley, we can still discover traces of the old narrow-gauge railway embankment, which belonged to the Felsőtárkány network. To the left, the rugged cliff of Árgus-kő breaks through the slope, its hardness giving rise to a slowly eroding rock towering above its environment.

Back to the narrow-gauge railway

After the neglected Vasvári spring, we continue along the embankment of the former narrow-gauge railway, arriving at the Napsugár rest place. Once, the rails reached here and later branched off. The building now operating as a key cabin served as a forester’s lodge in the past. Its garden is a pleasant resting place. On the P trail, it’s about half an hour to Varróház, but this must be done on the wide dozer road of Hideg-kúti valley, which poses no difficulties. We follow the stream in a shaded, puddled grove, crossing it at one point. After a long time, a meadow opens light into the forest, then a young forest grows beside the path. At the end, we cross a ford and soon pass a dark pine plantation with a cool climate. We reach the excavation road from the former side-valley narrow-gauge railway, and opposite the southern ridge toward Nagy-Eged appears. Minutes later, we arrive at Varróház (named after the forester’s lodge), where a small deer park offers entertainment until the train arrives.