On the red trail of the Velence Hills, or from the granite landscape to the lake shore

• From Pázmánd, we follow the P trail all the way to the Pákózd boat station, with two short detours:
  • We make a detour to Csúcsos Hill on the P▲ trail.
  • We make a detour to the spectacular formation of Likas-kő on the S trail.

Detailed description of the tour

Pázmánd, located at the eastern foot of the Velence Hills, is just six kilometers from Lake Velence. This is the starting or ending point of the red hiking trail, which comfortably crosses the island-like ridge stretching along the northern shore of the lake in one day's walk. Pázmánd offers sights such as an operational water mill and an open-air museum before admiring the distinctive and panoramic quartz rocks by following the P signs.

The splendid rock formations were formed during post-volcanic activity (30-40 million years ago); the most beautiful examples can be seen on the Zsidó and Kálvária hills, which our hiking trail also "climbs." Here you can see rock fissures, rock formations similar to niches, rock formations standing in strands, and holes known colloquially as fox traps that fill with water during wet weather. Alongside the surface forms of the area, the surrounding rock grassland and characteristic plant communities enjoy protection due to their botanical uniqueness, but the view from Zsidó Hill is also not to be missed. According to legend, the name of this 205 m high but steep rock-faced hill is linked to a Jesuit monk who once lived here and cured a Jewish girl. From her gratitude, a cross was erected, whose descendant still stands on the hilltop.

The initial steep ascent is followed by a comfortable descent through a pine forest, then after some winding, we head alongside the vineyards of Pázmánd toward the main mass of the Velence Hills. Crossing a bridge over the Cibulka Stream separating the field and Cseket Hill, we follow an asphalt path heading toward nearby Nadap. We can already see the prominent church when the branching P▲ sign invites us to the panoramic viewpoint of Csúcsos Hill.

View from Csúcsos Hill

At 268 m, Csúcsos Hill is Nadap's vineyard hill. Vineyards and enclosed gardens line its slopes; higher up, it is covered by scrub and low oak forest. At the summit, we can enjoy a splendid panoramic view of the surrounding area: the surface of Lake Velence, the characteristic Bence Hill crowned with its lookout, to the west the Templom Hill and the highest peak of the hills, Meleg Hill. Facing east, you can see Pázmánd and, further in the distance, the Buda Hills are lined up.

A cross stands on Csúcsos Hill, and a small plaque recounts its story: During World War II, a Hungarian soldier defended Nadap from Csúcsos Hill against the Russians attacking from Velence. The local families took care of his daily needs, and he vowed to erect a cross on the hilltop if he survived the war. After the war ended, the soldier kept his promise, and since then, with minor interruptions, the hilltop has been adorned with the cross.

The 1.5 km roundtrip detour is worth it, as a similar view will only be enjoyed later at our terminal stop in Pákózd. Continuing the path, we enter Nadap. The signs lead toward the Palermo Saint Rosalia Church, visible from afar, but just a few meters before, our path turns toward Nadap's probably best-known sight near the imposing neo-Gothic sanctuary.

National leveling reference point

It is well known that Nadap hosts Hungary's primary geodetic and architectural reference point, the Nadap leveling benchmark established in 1888. The reference level used for measuring altitude (173.16 m) is here for a reason, as this area of Hungary is geologically one of the oldest and most stable regions in the Velence Hills. The rock formation, dating back nearly 300 million years, solidified from magma rich in silicon dioxide during volcanic activity.

Characteristic granite blocks can already be seen within Pázmánd's borders, and from Nadap on, we frequently encounter rock that resurfaces in spectacular forms.

From the leveling reference point, we follow the path on the side of János Hill. We walk briefly on asphalt and along gardens until we turn into the pine forest of Kövecses Hill. Sometimes, the broad path is worn down to bare rock, ascending slightly to the plateau of the hills. Soon, we pass the 352-meter Meleg Hill, the highest point of the Velence Hills. Not far west of this height, there is Likas-kő, known for its spectacular, truly pierced formation reachable via the S trail.

Plains and gorges

After returning from Likas-kő, our westward route crosses the Nagy-legelő (Great Pasture), an atmospheric flat section mainly lined with mixed shrub, young forests, and occasionally old oaks. We reach the rundown rest area of Angelika Spring where it is now hardly possible to fill our water bottles (its enclosure has fallen). From here, the environment radically changes: the previously gentle landscape becomes wild and continues through a deeply incised, rocky-walled canyon. This is not the Rám gorge, but compared to the previously seen Velence landscape, it surely feels wild.

This is the Bodza Valley, whose mossy, rocky atmosphere will be seen later in the Hurka Valley. The path alongside the cliff provides comfortable walking and views of the creek flowing below and the rock giants surrounding the valley. During this slight descent, we notice a PΩ sign, which, with a few meters of steep detour, leads to the Pákózd Castle Cave, the only cave in the hills. In truth, this is an artificial cavity, possibly connected to a Bronze Age fortification, but its origin is uncertain. Archaeologists found glazed pottery fragments behind the entrance in a tunnel branching into several directions, which is only passable by crawling. For safety reasons, visiting is not recommended.

Alongside the cave marking (Ω), a castle sign (L) branches off from the P trail. This leads to the earthen fortifications of Pákózd Castle, providing a discovery experience especially for history enthusiasts, but to most, these might look like simple earth mounds, the traces of the former fortress.

We apparently continue in the same canyon, but the lower section is already called Hurka Valley, with a creek-bed ditch joining from the right. This section is also fairly rugged terrain otherwise gentle. Superb rock formations and stone sculptures tower around us, some shapes easily sparking the imagination.

Regardless of the season, we are on the most beautiful section of the route, not only because of the moss-covered gloomy rock blocks but also due to the winding stream, lush undergrowth, and varied forest compositions.

Eventually, the "gorge tour" ends, and we emerge onto the expansive flat Kulcsár field. On one side acacia trees and on the other, arable fields line our dirt road toward Pákózd, and now we walk in a completely different atmosphere than before. We pass beside the vineyard empire of Lics Winery at the foot of Külső Hill, and from here almost straight to Lake Velence. Previously, civilization was not far, but here the nearby highway noise finally dispels the "wilderness illusion" of the Velence Hills.

Sites in Pákózd

First, we cross the road connecting Sukoró and Pákózd, then also cross under the M7 motorway. The finale of our tour will be Szúnyog Island belonging to Pákózd, but just before reaching the lake, the Pákózd Pagony Wildlife Park and Arboretum on the side of Mészeg Hill beckon for a detour. Visiting the nature trail, lookout, interactive exhibition, playground, and animal and plant rarities makes for a nearly all-day family program, but the same can be said about the national memorial site we're also passing during the journey, the Pákózd Military Memorial Park.

Pákózd's name brings to mind one of the most important battles of the 1848–49 War of Independence, but the park on Mészeg Hill commemorates more than this key historical event. The Military Memorial Park was established around the obelisk raised at the battle site, showcasing our nation's military history from 1848 to the present day. You can see a tank, artillery, a furnished WWI barrack, original WWII trenches, and a barricade recalling the events of the 1956 revolution and war of freedom. You can also learn about conscription's relics and the history of Hungarian peacekeeping.

The exhibition halls require an entrance fee, but following the trail passing through the park, you get a free preview of the outdoor sights and enjoy the view opening from Mészeg Hill. From here, we descend onto the asphalt trail leading to Szúnyog Island, where (in season) reed bundles reminiscent of Pákózd's past are frequently seen.

Reed world of Lake Velence

In the past, fishing and reeds provided livelihood for the people of Pákózd; nowadays, the plant used for roofing primarily serves the protected wildlife here. The Danube–Ipoly National Park's bird reserve hosts unmatched nesting bird fauna. The great egret and spoonbill regularly appear in the old reeds, as does the hen harrier. The open water is home to the great crested grebe; shallow waters see the little grebe, and plenty of summer geese are also present. The protected area still holds remnants of the original marsh vegetation, called "úszólápok," among whose specialities are the rare Europe-wide bladder orchid and unusual coastal sedge species.

A few hundred meters later, we reach Szúnyog Island's boat station, along with the water surface dotted with reeds of Lake Velence. During the season from March to October, a tavern and scheduled boat trips to Gárdony await visitors here. It is also worth visiting outside service hours because the lake's quiet environment alone offers a pleasant experience.

Our tour to Szúnyog Island is about 20 km, but from there we still need to walk back 2.5 kilometers to the nearest bus stop if we cannot or do not want to continue by boat. We can board the bus at the previously mentioned Pákózd, Honvéd Memorial stop located on the road connecting Sukoró and Pákózd. This stop is near the connecting road leading to Szúnyog Island.