On the backs of the quartzite mountains producing millstones

Itinerary:

• From the bot-kő millstone quarry parking lot, we follow the P trail up to the foot of Megyer Hill.
• On the P+ trail, turn right to reach the millstone quarry.
• Upon reaching the top of the quarry wall, turn left onto the PT trail.
• On the far side of the quarry, we take a detour to the viewpoint on the P▲ trail to the right.
• Through the Ciróka pass (in the opposite direction to earlier), we return to the starting point via the P trail.

Detailed description of the hike:

The first silica pile, the Bot-kő gejyrite dome

We start from the parking lot established next to road 37, on the border of Sárospatak, on a wide gravel road leading towards the mountains. Behind the parking lot, in the meadow, there are resting places, fire pits, and a playground. Here we join the P trail and the Millstone nature trail, which accompanies us throughout our journey. Behind the meadow lies a thicket hiding natural rocky compositions: silica solutions once flowing from thermal springs permeated the volcanic ash, and the resulting tuff rock stands out from its quickly eroding surroundings due to its resistance.

At the western edge of the hill, we find several small quarries, brought to life by modern technology in millstone production. The hard French millstone was quarried here and assembled a few hundred meters downhill. It was enough to carve the smaller pieces of very hard silica material according to a template, then assemble and bond them with an iron hoop. The steam mills’ increased capacity led to larger, more wear-resistant millstones, and by the mid-19th century, this technology took the lead in millstone production.

Returning from the Bot-kő silica rocks, the gravel road descends from the hill through a planted black pine forest, then we walk among fields and vineyards towards the wooded ridges of the Tokaj Mountains. The vines indicate that we are still in Tokaj-Hegyalja, as the south-facing, gentle volcanic soil slopes provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The humid air of nearby Bodrogköz, the continental climate, and the southern exposure create a favorable habitat for the botrytis fungus, which causes the well-known aszú grape shriveling. After World War II, the center of state wine production was moved from Tokaj to Sátoraljaújhely, giving increased attention to the northern part of Hegyalja, where most vineyards in the area were then planted.

Among the hills of Megyer Hill

Approaching Megyer Hill, more weekend houses and wine cellars line the road. When we reach the basin surrounded by forested ridges, the road curves away from the shallow valley of the Suta stream, and on the P+ trail, we begin a slow climb towards the quarry. Increasing steepness and a deep roadside ditch accompany us until we arrive at the former volcanic ash dome, where silicone-rich waters have already percolated through the soft material, making it more resistant to erosion.

The sunken cart road owes its form to centuries of hauling heavy millstones here, so establishing the gentlest possible route was important. On the steeper side, we now wind through an oak forest, accompanied by a woodland atmosphere on the way to the former quarry entrance. To the left, an artificially cut rocky gorge leads to the quarry base—planned as a gate through which rainwater gathering in the quarry pit could be drained instead of costly pumping. However, the solution was not completed even after half a century, and a shimmering green water mirror still glistens between the walls.

Along the high walls runs an iron railing all around, as the 10-20 meter steep edges easily allow you to find yourself deep in the old work area when looking down pensively from the top. On the flatter area above the quarry yard, where millstones used to be sold, we can now refresh ourselves, and adventurous visitors can rent via ferrata sets here. This sport is very popular, although it was originally developed for military purposes: in the World War, soldiers moved with similar metal clip and chain aids on Alpine terrains.

At the top of Megyer Hill

We climb to the upper edge of the walls on the path leading right, so that on the short, independent section of the PT trail (nature trail), turning left, we can look down from the top into the quarry yard. On the far side of the quarry, the P trail arriving from Károlyfalva joins, but for now, we turn right onto the P▲ trail to enjoy panoramic views from the treetop-standing lookout at the highest point of Megyer Hill. From the metal tower’s top, a unique view opens onto the surrounding peaks painting the panorama. The characteristic, almost geometric composition of the Sátoros Mountains dominates the view; the neighboring conical mountain group consists of the Fekete-hegy near Mikóháza and Vágáshuta and its volcanic siblings. Both groups share shape and formation. Westwards, the Tokaj Mountains stretch with long, flat ridges towards the vast forests of the central regions. To the southwest, under good visibility conditions, the Tokaj Nagy-Kopasz appears along the Bodrog River, and east of it lies the river’s floodplain, an endless patchy forest reaching the horizon.

The circle closes, returning to the border of Sárospatak

Returning to the P trail, we descend westward through the pleasant oak forest on the hilltop, accompanied by signs presenting the environment of the nature trail. We walk a bit over a kilometer in the oak forest covering the slopes until we reach the Ciróka pass clearing, located in the saddle between Megyer and Király Hill. From here, the P trail descends into the shallow valley, initially under tree shade and then reconnecting to the introductory section of our hike among the vineyards on the slope of Ciróka Hill.

On the right, the wooded ridge continues visibly to the ridge ending at the Király Hill quarry wall. This quarry took customer attention away from the old Megyer Hill quarry and ultimately caused its decline and closure in the early 20th century. However, manual work left behind much more spectacular and interesting wall surfaces, which thanks to the quarry’s closure can still be seen today.

In our final section, we return to the parking lot along the now familiar gravel road, cutting through the pine forest. The nearby Végardó beach or many local wine cellars offer relaxation after the kilometers covered, giving a place to reflect on the centuries worked with manual labor.