Circular tour to the iconic heights of the Sátoros Mountains

Itinerary:

• From the train station, we start on the K trail heading towards the town center.
• The K◼ trail leads through the Ungvári cellars and the Heroes' Cemetery to the chairlift middle station.
• From here, turn left and follow the K▲ trail (or take the chairlift) up to the Magas-hegy peak to the lookout tower.
• From the lookout tower, continue on the K▲ trail to the Vörös saddle.
• At Vörös saddle, turn left and descend on the P trail.
• Upon reaching the streets, turn right and proceed straight on the P+ trail.
• At a fork, turn left onto the K▲ signs and climb to the top of Szár-hegy.
• From Szár-hegy, follow the K▲ trail through Magyar Kálvária back to the town center. (It’s worth detouring briefly to the Zsólyomka cellar row.)
• Turn right onto the K◼ trail.
• When the K trail joins, continue straight to reach Sátoraljaújhely train station.

Detailed description of the tour:

Below the Sátoros Mountains

Starting with our back to the train station, set off on the K trail to cross Sátoraljaújhely (this part can be shortened by bus). At a fork, the K trail disappears and you switch to K◼ signs that you follow straight ahead. The mainly 19th-century residential buildings around the main square preserve shards of this historically significant but troubled town. Here you can see the former county hall, today’s town hall, from whose balcony Kossuth Lajos famously spoke in 1831, early in his political career. The building of the archive is also nearby; it was the workplace of Kazinczy Ferenc in the adjacent Széphalom (then called Bányácska). If you continue walking, the pointed mountains from which the town takes its original name (Sátoralja) come into view behind the buildings.

The tourist path follows a busy road. Closer to the mountains, the steep slopes of Magas-hegy become more challenging, but the lookout tower at the top offers motivating views. When the trail finally turns left off the main road, you enter an important area: the UNESCO World Heritage Ungvári cellar system. Built by the Pauline monks in the 1200s, they were later used by residents moved up from the Bodrog floodplain. Their name may refer to a trade route to Ungvár, but more likely to the historic Ungvári family's estate, located in the northern part of the town. The volcanic-origin riolite tuff at the mountain’s base escaped total erosion, and the community of Sátoralja discovered this well-carved, porous and well-ventilated rock, into which they carved cellars. Invisible at first sight, the underground is a true labyrinth: 14-16 kilometers of tunnels connected originally 27 cellars, which stored 13,000 barrels of Gönc wine. A complex ventilation system supplies the optimal air necessary for aging Tokaji Szamorodni and Aszú wines.

Unfortunately, the cellar system is in a neglected state: many entrances are almost hidden by weeds; electrical cabinets and boxes hang on many facades. Overall, little indicates this is a World Heritage site. Although some cellar entrances look nicer, a unified presentation and generally neat upkeep are missing.

At the foot of the mountain

Shortly afterwards, we leave the streets and climb on a country road beside scrub along the skirt of Magas-hegy; looking back beyond the plain of the Ronyva, the Zemplén hills (in Slovak, Zemplínske vrchy) spread out. The name of this area is actually misleading: the Hungarian name Zempléni-hegység is widely used but inaccurate; the older (pre-1945) correct designation is the Tokaj Mountains (including the Slovak side called the Prešov-Tokaj mountain range). Geologists justify this by the distinctly different geological composition of the hills and mountains, despite their shared name suggesting otherwise. Moreover, only the eastern side of the mountain range was historically part of Zemplén county, with the western part belonging to Abaúj.

After a right turn, we walk alongside a fence with uniform white graves arranged in military order on the other side. The Heroes' Cemetery holds young soldiers who died in World War I; their headstones were erected from public donations and state support. The southern part also includes a few World War II graves. The cemetery, established gradually from 1914, holds 1540 buried from various nationalities of the Austro-Hungarian Empire: mostly Hungarians, Austrians, Slovaks, Rusyns, Romanians, Poles, Croats, as well as Serbian and Russian prisoners of war. Those who died during the epidemic were buried in mass graves, but each name is inscribed on its own headstone, and their funerals followed their denominations. In front of the cross in the middle is a black ornamental stone with inscriptions from the Hungarian hymn "Szózat": "It cannot be that so many hearts have shed blood in vain." The cemetery fell into disrepair with overgrown weeds in the second half of the 20th century; renovations were carried out by Sátoraljaújhely civilians and in 2009 by local prison inmates. The last major restoration was in 2019. To visit the memorial, you need to find the entrance on the far side.

Climbing the ridge...

At the far corner of the cemetery, turn sharply left and soon you reach a wildflower meadow. Before the phylloxera epidemic, Sátoraljaújhely had a strong tradition of Tokaj-style wine-making, with vineyards once on the sunny slopes of the mountain, now abandoned (perhaps the name "Cepre" of the meadow refers to grape pomace). On the other side of the meadow, vineyards still stretch, but our route takes us into the woods. Before entering, you can catch a last view of the Zemplén hills and to the north the Slovak section of the Prešov-Tokaj mountain range (locally called the Szalánci Mountains). The trail passes through bushes, then sparse forest, and the climb becomes steeper. Passing through hornbeam and beech forest, we reach the middle station of the Magas-hegy chairlift, walking finally on asphalt.

Magas-hegy, the highest of the Sátoros Mountains, has been noted since the early days of nature tourism in Zemplén. A lookout was built on its top in 1927 by the diligent Hegyalja Division of the Hungarian Tourist Association, on the northern snow-protected side ski slopes and a jump hill were formed in subsequent years. Since the early 21st century, interest in the summit has revived: the slopes host the longest bobsleigh track and chairlift in Hungary’s Zemplén Adventure Park. From the summit, you can zipline fearlessly across to the neighboring Szár-hegy (with a chairlift flying back). The middle station offers not only a buffet but also a ski museum housed in the old ski lodge, the first and only of its kind in Hungary.

The K▲ trail winds through meadows alternating with thick beech forests to the summit. Be alert: due to dense infrastructure, the correct path is sometimes hard to follow. The best option is perhaps buying a ticket for the chairlift (ticket office at the bottom of the large building) and reaching the 514-meter summit while slowly and comfortably riding up. From the chairlift platform, the trail to the lookout tower is obvious. From the tower, you can calmly observe brave adventurers sliding on the cableway to Szár-hegy, and all the typical terrains of the Tokaj Mountains unfold before you.

Standing on the mountain’s edge, the panorama is lively and diverse: in one direction are the plains of Ronyva and the Zemplén hills, and the basin of Hegyköz with the stone walls of Vilyvitány below. In the background, the Milic group appears bluish; the castle of Füzér shines white. Although a transmitter tower disturbs the view, turning west the entire Central Zemplén massif waves before us. Many distinctly separated peaks blend with long ridges and valleys, all cloaked by forest, with no settlements visible—except the tower of Regéc castle can be spotted easily. To the south, solitary Tokaj hill rises as an outpost, its foothills already blending into the Great Plain. Forested peaks of the Sátoros Mountains rise around us, intermixed with holiday homes and gardens, with the streets of Sátoraljaújhely lining the edge.

Particularly in clear weather, parts of the Northeastern Carpathians become visible: Vihorlat, Szinyák, and Borló are volcanic ring members, similarly to the Prešov-Tokaj mountain range. You can reach Szár-hegy by the gondola called Dongó or walk about 45 minutes. The most extreme option is using the zipline: 1 kilometer long, high above the valley, you can accelerate up to 80 km/h sliding to the neighboring peak.

... and descends into the valley

Leaving the lookout, continue on the K▲ trail. (If the poorly painted signs are hard to find, head down to the chairlift reception station; from there, turn left and maintain a westward level path to seek the trail. Staying atop the ski slopes and going straight through trees, painted signs soon reappear.) Farewell the magnificent views and climb across to the far side of the summit on the left branch of the K▲ trail! The path down is unpleasantly steep, slippery, and rocky with exposed roots, passing through an old oak forest. Caution is needed, and tree trunks can be used as handholds. A large rock pile on the left is the remains of a dismantled ski jump; the extensive rock field is from glacial frost shattering. Fortunately, the section is short, the terrain softens, and we reach the summit of Kis-Magas-hegy.

Soon we reach the nondescript intersection called Vörös saddle, named for the red soil and iron ores (near Rudabányácska, silver and gold were mined for centuries). Its traditional name is Bandalak, as it was reportedly inhabited by troublemakers. This place is quite far from the town, enclosed by mountains, reached by a tiring climb, explaining why those seeking distance from the law and settlements chose it. Some resorts still climb the hillside, but before the late 19th-century phylloxera damage, vineyards and orchards reached even higher.

On the P trail, under hornbeams, we descend on a rutted deep path. Around are abandoned and collapsed holiday homes, some simple but still maintained buildings hidden in the forest shade. Large dacite blocks line the path. About a kilometer later, we reach a street, which we soon leave turning right onto the forest path marked P+, climbing the slope of the Tánchely hill. The center cone of the Sátoros Mountains here was a site of old Sátoraljaújhely festivities. We do not reach the summit but turn left at a fork onto the narrow K▲ trail. The vegetation changes: bushes reclaim abandoned vineyards and orchards, continuing into pine forests and acacia groves. From the foot of Szár-hegy, we still see to the right the Sátor and Vár hills; after a short rest, we start the most demanding climb of the tour.

Traces of a volcano?

Suddenly the climb becomes steep, hindered by stones and fallen trunks; the slope angle not easing but becoming harsher. Then it feels as if the mountain has been cut off: we arrive at a flat top with a chapel opposite. Standing on a rock outcrop to the right offers a view of the basin encircled by the Sátoros Mountains—really like looking at the collapsed caldera of a volcano. The characteristic steep shapes and isolated “pyramids” puzzled noted geographer Jenő Cholnoky, who wondered what volcanic activity formed this striking group. His theory suggested a Vesuvius-like volcano with a huge explosive destruction leaving a caldera ruin, but modern research does not support this. The most likely explanation is that about 11 million years ago, magma intruded beneath (also volcanic) riolite tuff, lifting the surface. Subsequent erosion uncovered dacite bodies buried deep beneath softer layers. Running streams carved the terrain, creating this uniquely distinctive formation.

A memorial above the town

Despite the splendid views, the summit of Szár-hegy is best known for its cultural landmarks. In 1935, on the 200th anniversary of Rákóczi Ferenc’s death, the 100th national flagpole was erected here, proudly waving on a small platform. Today surrounded by trees, the original sparse vegetation made the Hungarian tricolor visible from afar. The Flagpole Movement served as an expression of national mourning over Trianon, launched 10 years earlier. Sátoraljaújhely was shaken by the peace treaty, losing much of the villages in its catchment area overnight and becoming a border town. The border was drawn along the Ronyva river, which according to later popular rumor, Czechoslovak diplomats tricked to appear navigable, a story believed even by the overseeing commission during floods. A poem was written about this: "Thus the small Ronyva advanced, / Now a great water with great troubles: / Became a border, / No bird can cross it, / Neither vandal, Turk, nor Tatar." However, no historical records support this story; the border was decided due to the strategic importance of the Kassá-Csáp railway line, causing Sátoraljaújhely to lose a part of its town and train station.

On the far side of the summit stands the St. Stephen Chapel, modeled on the Holy Crown, built in 1938 by public donation for the 900th anniversary of the state foundation. Descending, you first meet the stations for the zipline and cable car (connecting to Magas-hegy), then enter a wide, well-maintained promenade lined by bastion-modeled stations. This is the Magyar Kálvária promenade—also funded by public donations, completed in 1936 with a ceremonial opening. The memorial stations, inspired by the Passion of Christ, bear the names and coats of arms of lost historical towns, each with a plaque quoting a famous Hungarian figure; ending with Kassá station downhill.

A long straight path follows with excellent views of Sátoraljaújhely and surroundings before a narrow wooded strip leads to the Calvary gate. The memorial complex (including summit buildings) was devastated in the socialist decades; plaques and coats of arms were destroyed. Renovation began with public donations after the regime change. Next to the gate is a mine yard offering a pleasant fire pit and rest area refreshing visitors; the trail finally descends to the mountain's foot.

Where festivities once were

We reach a road where a short dead-end street branches left a little lower. Worth taking a roughly 2-minute detour here, it leads to a jewel of the Sátoros Mountains, the Zsólyomka cellar row. Cellars carved into the remaining tuff at the mountain’s foot date from the 13th-15th centuries, though most of the wine houses built above are much later. Along the densely vegetated banks of the Zsólyomka stream, the small, charmingly contrasting houses line up close together, with geraniums decorating the railings and the sun painting the Magas-hegy peak in the background. Visiting during harvest festivities is recommended, when open doors welcome guests. The cellar row long served as a popular social spot for vintners from Újhely, who also had a spa nearby.

Returning to the street, we bid farewell to nature as the town center is near. Here, we rejoin our earlier route: first right on the K◼ trail, then continuing on K signs to arrive back at the train station.