On Pădis’s toughest, “chained” trail

Itinerary

• From Glavoj Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi), start westward on the hiking trail marked with a yellow dot (towards Galbina Ridge), and follow it to the first forest trail junction.
• At the junction, turn right onto the path marked with a yellow stripe, which we follow to the Black Cave (Peștera Neagră), then return to the junction.
• Continue straight on the yellow dot trail to the next T-junction.
• Turn right on the yellow dot trail, which we follow across the Galbina Ridge (Piatra Galbenei) to another junction, where it reconnects lower down with our previous route.
• At the crossroad, turn left onto the hiking trail marked with a solid yellow dot, which we follow to the Flora Meadow (Poiana Florilor).
• At Flora Meadow (Poiana Florilor), continue straight following the yellow dot markers to the bottom of the Galbina Gorge (Cheile Galbenei).
• Turning left and following the yellow dot, we cross the Galbina Gorge (Galbina Canyon / Cheile Galbenei).
• Climbing out of the gorge, take a detour to the left at the forest junction on the yellow (empty) dot trail, then its right branch. Afterwards, return to the junction!
• At the junction, continue straight on the yellow dot trail, following it to the junction with the blue dot markers.
• At the crossroad, turn left onto the hiking trail marked with a blue dot, walk to the first viewpoint, then return.
• Following the blue dot markers, descend to Csodavár (Cetățile Ponorului), then climb up to the gravel forest road.
• On the gravel forest road, turn left onto the red stripe trail, which we follow back to Glavoi Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi).

Detailed description of the tour

In the spell of caves

Our hike starts from the deservedly popular hiking spot, Glavoj Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi). This meadow is one of the central areas of the Pădis Plateau, from where many famous sights can be reached by a short walk. Accordingly, services are increasingly developed on the meadow, with guesthouses and buffets operating as well. In summer, the beautiful meadow fills with campers, who visibly put strain on the area.

We begin along a stream meandering through the green meadow, heading southwest following the yellow dot markings, but soon turn away from the watercourse, entering a fairytale forest on the right along the yellow dot marked hiking path. The initial section is quite steep, but after overcoming the ascent, we can walk roughly level to the first trail junction. At the crossroads, we could turn left on the Galbina Circuit, or straight to the Eskimo Ice Cave (Peștera Ghețarul de la Barsa), but first turn right onto the path marked with a yellow stripe! The Galbina Circuit, also known as Galbinária, was developed by Gyula Czárán, who is not without reason called the "Prince of Galbina." We follow this circuit for a long stretch during our hike.

Our goal is to visit the entrance and first chambers of the Black Cave (Peștera Neagră). For this, we follow the path marked with a yellow stripe descending steeply along an adventurous path, made exciting by fallen trees and crossing dripping streams. While watching your step, you will soon glimpse the cave entrances at the base of a jagged rock wall. Cave exploration is not part of our hike, so we just peek inside the mountain’s belly—the cave got its name from the black walls of the shafts descending downward. The steep ridges enclosing the drainage-less basin, the Barsa Basin (Groapa de la Barsa), host three main caves: Black, Barsa, and Zapogye, forming more than 12 km of connected underground passages. Large amounts of ice accumulate here, attracting many cavers. In front of the Black Cave entrance, one can observe different dissolution forms created by strong water currents.

After marveling at the extremely cool microclimate of the cave, return to the known path at the junction and continue straight on the yellow dot hiking trail. On the mixed forest path, ascend 400 meters before reaching the highest point of the hike (1248 m) at a T-junction. This junction cannot be missed since going straight would mean descending hundreds of meters. Turn right at the junction onto the yellow dot, and within minutes arrive at the Galbina Ridge (Piatra Galbenei), a climbing meadow which is one of Pădis’s wildest viewpoints.

On the edge of Galbina Ridge

Once sure you are standing firmly, look down and into the distance, as you see one of the most monumental panoramas of Pădis from the southern edge of the plateau. We stand at 1243 meters, while the waving flora meadow (Poiana Florilor) below stretches at 700 meters, half a kilometre deeper! The view to the left is dominated by the Barcig Peak, exactly 100 meters above us, opposite us stretches the Gardului massif. The almost vertical drop of Galbina Ridge is most visible turning right, dominated by Csorba Hill (Stirbina) at 1304 m, Tatár Hill (Tartaroaia) at 1291 m, and their ridges. The valley-dissected mountain forest is broken through in the background by Great Bihar, the highest peak (1849 m) of the whole Transylvanian island mountains.

After enjoying the panorama, climb down from the rocks, and although the route is roughly shown by the yellow dot markers, staying on the designated trail is not always easy. Back in the forest, the view briefly reappears, then disappears again in the dense mixed forest. After walking 500 m, reach a junction where we switch from the empty yellow dot to a solid yellow dot and turn left. After barely 300 meters comes another stop, the Eskimo Ice Cave (Peștera Ghețarul de la Focul Viu).

The Eskimos' romantic but increasingly short life

The entrance to Transylvania's second largest ice cave is unfortunately closed, visitable only with a guide, but through the barred door you can peek into the icy microclimate chamber where ice layers exist all year round. We can descend on a moderately poor-condition wooden staircase, and although some light filters in, a headlamp is recommended to better examine the visible space. The chill is caused by the collapsed ceiling of the large cave chamber: cold air freely flows in, preserved by the windless cave. In the middle of the chamber rises a rubble cone, partly made of ice, hidden below fallen leaves and branches falling through the cave openings.

Due to shortening winters and warming summers, the cave's ice content shows a declining trend; the ice magic turns out to be transient. By autumn, the cave may become almost ice-free. The name is attributed to Gyula Czárán. The geologist named the cave's larger ice block the Eskimo, which survives mostly year-round depending on weather. In winter, another ice block forms nearby, called the “wife.” Since the sun shining through the collapsed ceiling regularly melts the wife in summer, according to the story, the Eskimo must choose a new wife every year.

For the braver, an external inspection of the ice cave is also recommended: climb the wooden stairs, then turn right to visit the collapse above the cave. It is very important to observe only from a safe distance because calling for help from inside the closed cave is difficult!

Resting on the flower meadow

After circling the Eskimo Ice Cave, continue on the yellow dot trail, descending 470 meters along a “strictly monotonous” slope, 2.5 kilometers to the Flora Meadow (Poiana Florilor). Here you can rest at several spots; the wonderful meadow surrounded by mountains offers a charming, peaceful atmosphere. What follows will be more challenging, so it is truly worth taking a breath. You can also get water, as the hiking trail passes right next to the Eke Spring (likely named after the nearby work of the Transylvanian Carpathian Association).

After Flora Meadow, one of Pădis’s most exciting sections awaits. After half a kilometer on the yellow dot, you reach the Galbina Stream (Galbena) bridge. This stream collects a significant part of Pădis’s waters coming from the left, with flow depending heavily on snowmelt and rainfall. Its name probably originates from the Slavic word 'glubina' meaning gorge, but also means yellow, possibly from the muddy tributary coming from the Rusty Section. Our route continues left; with awareness of the multilingual warning at the start, we embark on this great adventure!

On all fours in the Galbina Gorge

The canyon called Galbina Gorge (Cheile Galbenei) by Gyula Czárán is sometimes filled completely by the bed of the Galbina stream, forcing us to advance sometimes only in the water. To avoid this, Czárán developed the valley, and although the wooden structures disappeared long ago, we proceed by holding onto steel cables, clamps, and chains, stepping on them to ascend deeper into the mountain. Our route undulates along the canyon wall of the stream, offering a unique experience in this wild environment. This strenuous section is 300 meters long but allows breaks. At the most exciting section, the narrowest 50-meter part of the gorge, we advance stepping on chains, holding steel cables, just centimeters above the water.

The markings and steel cables then climb steeply to the side of the gorge, where descending through a small, chain-secured passage cave, we reach the most spectacular point of Pădis, the Eminencia Waterfall (Cascada Evantai). The waters of Pădis, uniting at 950 meters from the Lost World pits and Ponor Meadow, flow underground for 2 kilometers before emerging at the Galbina Spring from deep inside the mountain. The Eminencia Waterfall pours fresh cascade water perpendicularly into the widening rock basin. Getting to the waterfall is not easy: holding onto steel cables fixed to the wall, placing feet first into rock wall depressions, keeping body away, then stepping on metal clamps, we inch sideways above the stream.

There is always deeper

After the waterfall, two options are available. One follows the markings around the Eminencia Waterfall rock, the other traverses a partly artificial trail carved by Czárán beside the stream inside the mountain. Dare to enter next to the stream; the roaring water creates an extraordinary atmosphere in the otherwise completely quiet surroundings! The cave part is short and accessible, but the exit offers a steep, gravelly stretch where slipping is easy.

For a short part, we also walk next to the surface flow of the Galbina stream, enjoying the scenery and views of the stream rushing over rocks from one small waterfall to the next, flanked by house-sized limestone walls, while mossy climbing meadows cover the ground. On the left stands the Capitolium rock tower in a narrow gorge, from which the 70-meter-high, 334-step staircase called Jacob's Ladder, built by Czárán, leads out. Near the top is a cave nicknamed the Galbina Hotel, where Czárán lived during exploration work. The “construction office” later served as shelter for canyon visitors. The difficult, exhausting stairs were replaced by “the Prince of Galbina” himself with the currently used route expanded by blasting to adequate width.

The end of the gorge is marked by a cable-secured short rocky corridor, where we actually cross over the stream; on the right springs the Galbina Water Spring (Izbucul Galbenei). The water emerging from the cave swirls in a small stone basin, then spills over a threshold and rushes down the valley along a long cascade chain. The yellow dot trail turns steeply right here; do not lose sight of it, as GPS is very inaccurate in the deep gorge, making devices' help limited.

From the depths to the peak

We need to regain the altitude lost towards Flora Meadow at a strong pace. Over the next half kilometer, we ascend 150 meters, and at the end of the steep climb arrive at a four-way junction. Here it is worth making a short detour on the path marked with a yellow (empty) dot leading left, as two great viewpoints can be reached. From neighboring cliffs, you can see the Galbina Gorge’s rock faces, and the roar of the Eminencia Waterfall can be heard — although vegetation hides the water itself. The quite exposed viewpoints sit on vertical rock walls, so along with the panorama, remember safety precautions!

Having enjoyed the view, walk back to the previous junction and continue straight on the yellow dot marked path. Over the next 2 kilometers we ascend 340 meters, but the reward is a beautiful forest, a well-marked route without fallen trees or rocks to struggle with. After climbing, we reach the Porcika Saddle (Şaua Borţigului), named after the 45-meter-deep Porcika Pit (Avenul Borţig) opening here. We take a quick look at its gigantic 35-meter diameter entrance, but the depths are accessible only to cavers. At the bottom lies a massive ice block estimated at 30,000 cubic meters, the second largest in Romania.

Interesting is that Czárán built a 150-degree ladder twice down into the Porcika Pit, where one could walk between ice-carved passages. However, tunnels clogged with ice every winter, requiring repeated digging. Then the pit length was about 300 m; now about 150 m is accessible.

At the forest junction, continue right on the yellow dot marked hiking trail. The markings now lead 100 meters lower and along a sharper slope towards the edge where Csodavár breaks off. If you held your breath earlier, prepare to do so again! At the next junction, turn left onto the blue dot trail, visiting the first viewpoint, the Csodavár balcony.

Wonder from above

The triple karst basin’s legendary name is no exaggeration! Standing on the western edge of one of Csodavár’s (Cetățile Ponorului) collapses, you get a perfect view of the depth surrounded by nearly vertical 100-meter-high rock walls. We can spot our later path, and if other hikers are visiting Csodavár at the same time, we might shudder at how tiny we are. Behind the mountain rising northeast lies Ponor Meadow, unseen but worth knowing that waters coming from the Magura Ridge appear here on the surface before sinking again underground and running into the Csodavár caves.

The jagged rock landscape and fairytale pine forest around us are impressive, but perhaps most of all the spatial experience itself. Extreme caution is advised on the exposed viewpoint without guardrails! After admiring the view from above, descend to Csodavár! To do this, we must turn back from the viewpoints, now following the blue dot markings. The joint section with the yellow dot ends at a sharp left bend, where we literally “plunge” into the depths of Csodavár, descending on the very steep, rubble-covered path (formerly called the Tulogdi Gorge), sometimes only safely using fixed chains. While the section is spectacular, look carefully at the steep, rock stairs and slippery rubble-strewn path! At the bottom of the harsh rock wall appears one large cave opening, the “Gate to the Underworld,” above which the recently visited lofty viewpoint is visible.

Although a small plaque at the rim warns that the cave section is not part of the hiking route, many peek inside the mountain’s belly. This is dangerous because the water flow is strong. The surface path is also not easy; a steep rock threshold must be climbed aided by slightly tilted metal stairs and new cables. The huge 73-meter-high, 30-meter-wide entrance, the monumental Great Portal, is the highest cave portal of the Carpathians. This huge cave gate almost leans over us, yawning from the deep while towering above, its huge rock formations hinting at great depths.

Wonder from below

Csodavár is the largest and most famous cave system in Pădis, special for its huge limestone walls and natural stone gates. Underground waters converge, carving an extensive cave system into the karst body, collapsing in three places and creating the triple basin. The main watercourse in Csodavár is the Vár Stream, whose third (southernmost) doline is the lowest surface point in the whole Pădis Plateau (950 m). Here converge waters coming from the Lost World pits and Ponor Meadow, along which we have been walking since Galbina Gorge.

From Csodavár basin, a steep, initially chain-secured path leads out, and continuing to follow the blue dot markings, after overcoming a 70-meter altitude difference, we reach a forestry road in a mossy dense pine forest at a rest area. Turning left on the red stripe trail, we complete our journey, leading the remaining 1.3 kilometers on a less stimulating, gravel-covered, wide forestry road back to Glavoj Meadow.