The classic Szamos-bazár circuit

Itinerary

• From the starting point, follow the red dot marking heading north.
• At the junction opposite the cave entrance, continue left on the red dot marked path.
• Make a short detour to the right to a viewpoint following the red dot markings.
• Descend along the red dot markings into the streambed.
• Turn right and follow the red dot markings through the Szamos-bazár (Cheile Someșului Cald) gorge and then through the Aragyásza Cave (Cetățile Rădesei).
• After the cave, stay on the left branch of the red dot marking, which leads to the end point, where the route started.

Detailed Route Description

Down on the surface

Our hike starts from the northern end of the meadow below Varasó (Vărăşoaia), accessible also by car via a gravel road. You may even park earlier to take a closer look at the Varasó mountain (Varful Vărăşoaia) and the sinkholes piercing the meadow below. The shepherd huts clearly indicate that high-mountain grazing is in full swing, with the associated bell ringing and guard dogs also present.

Heading towards Szamos-bazár, we take the red dot marked road turning off at the meadow's edge. We walk along a wide transport road into the forest, then on a path descending moderately but steadily among the trees. The wild setting is hinted at by several watercourses to jump over – these pose no problem in dry weather. These streams feed the brooks forming the warm Szamos (Meleg-Szamos), and shortly after crossing them, we reach a much more breathtaking spot.

Soon the path splits with continuations straight ahead and to the left both marked with red dots. Take the left fork, which first crosses a now well-watered brook, then starts a steep climb. We would miss one of the route's most beautiful views if we only focus on the climb: from here there is a perfect view of the entrance of the Aragyásza Cave (Cetățile Rădesei), also called the Gate of Babylon (following Czárán). Into the chasm in the cliff a smaller block house fits, its size only approximately indicated by the nearby healthy pine trees, measuring about 7 by 15 meters.

After bypassing the basin’s wall, the terrain becomes simpler, with our path leading through karst scrub forest towards the northeast. Occasionally dazzling views open to distant mountains (especially the 1475 m high Kucsma-kő), and a couple of times we also glimpse the nearby gorge’s formidable cliffs. After 200 meters we reach a fork, where both paths are marked with red dots for variety. The route to the right is quite short and leads to a viewpoint – the small detour is worth it. Be careful by the holes next to the trail, these are the Aragyásza Cave’s broken openings, sheltering huge depths.

Up through the cave

Returning to the Szamos-bazár exploration circuit, we soon start a steep descent assisted by chains. The stone steps were blasted by Czárán and his workers during path construction. The rocks are slippery in the rain, but even when dry this section requires extreme care and attention. At the end, we arrive at the confluence of two brooks, the Aragyásza and the Feredő brooks (Pârâul Feredeului and Pârâul Rădesei). This area is considered the source of the warm Szamos river, but not only for this reason do we recommend a short rest here. Soon we continue into a narrow, really wild gorge to reach deep into the Aragyásza Cave. This section is physically and mentally demanding; the latter refers to the 'burden' of absorbing the brutal scenery.

The chains lead down to the streambed and a junction. All markings are red circles; from the chains look to the right and take that direction. As unbelievable as it may seem, after bypassing a substantial rock the path indeed continues, following the watercourse as it 'eats' itself into the mountain. Along about a 50-meter narrow stretch, flowing water carved the limestone walls’ lower few meters, creating curved shapes and huge basins that define the forms. Holding onto chains and dodging fallen trunks, we can proceed forward and upward. The Medúza-zug canyon top arches like a cave roof and indeed was once a cave entrance – only collapsed. The upper part remains a real cave through which the tourist path leads.

After the steep canyon, we enter the northern end of the Aragyásza Cave (Cetățile Rădesei). Although the first few meters inside the limestone block do not require a light thanks to filtered natural light, later we must use the lighting we brought. The path runs not just beside the brook and underground streambed but also requires climbing two rocks inside the cave, possible with chains. We pass through enormous cave halls, some with collapsed ceilings letting in some natural light, while others are pitch-dark. The largest spacious hall (called the Dome by Czárán) is 60 m long, 38 m wide, and 25 m high. The Aragyásza Cave is 212 m long overall, and it is impossible to get lost inside.

We exit the Aragyásza Cave through the 15 m high, 7 m wide Gate of Babylon, visible at the end of our hike from the basin’s steep slope. The brook flows here from the surface; the rock block’s protrusion and water’s gradual deep carving shaped both the huge portal and the cave entrance. The path forks opposite the entrance; before the spring, turn left, then follow a steadily rising path along the valley head, turning right a few meters ahead. After about 10-15 minutes’ walk in a pine forest, we return by the familiar route beneath the Varasó mountain where the hike started.