Circular hike to the best of Pădis, Csodavár

Itinerary

• Start westwards on the trail with the yellow dot marking from Glavoj Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi) towards Galbina Cliff, and follow it to the first forest trail junction.
• At the junction, turn right onto the path marked with a yellow stripe, follow it to the Black Cave (Peștera Neagră), then return to the junction.
• At the junction, turn right onto the trail marked with a yellow dot and proceed to the Eskimo Ice Cave (Peștera Ghețarul de la Barsa).
• From the ice cave, turn back and follow the yellow dot to the crossroads.
• At the crossroads, turn right onto the path with a yellow (empty) dot marking, which we follow across the Galbina Cliff (Piatra Galbenei) to the junction before Csodavár.
• At the crossroads, turn left onto the trail marked with a blue dot leading to the viewpoint above Csodavár (Cetăţile Ponorului), then return to the junction.
• On the blue dot trail, turn left to descend into Csodavár (Cetăţile Ponorului), then climb out and walk to the gravel road.
• On the gravel road, turn left onto the trail marked with a red stripe which leads back to Glavoj Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi).

Detailed description of the route

The hike starts from the well-known Glavoj Meadow (Poiana Glăvoi). This meadow is a central area of the Pădis Plateau from which many famous sights can be reached with short walks. Consequently, services, guesthouses, and buffets are increasingly developing here. In summer, the beautiful meadow fills with campers, visibly struggling with this level of wear.

From Glavoj Meadow, follow the shared route marked with red stripe, red cross, blue circle, and yellow dot markings along a winding stream heading southwest, but soon turn away from the watercourse onto the trail marked with a yellow circle, entering the fairytale forest. The initial stretch is very steep, but after overcoming the climb, we can continue almost level to the first trail junction. At the four-way junction, we can go left on the Galbina Circle, or straight to the Eskimo Ice Cave, but first turn right onto the yellow stripe marked trail!

Warm-up

Our goal is to visit the entrances and first chambers of the Black Cave (Peştera Neagră). Following the yellow stripe marked path, we descend steeply on an adventurous route made exciting by fallen trees and crossing trickling streams. While watching our steps, we soon glimpse the Black Cave entrances at the base of a jagged cliff. Cave exploration is not part of the hike, only a brief look into the mountain’s core – the cave was named for the black walls of the shafts descending from here. The drainage basin, Barsa Basin (Groapa de la Barsa), enclosed by steep ridges, contains three main caves – Black, Barsa, and Zapogye – forming a continuous underground system over 12 km long. Large amounts of ice have accumulated here, attracting many cavers. Before the entrance, we can observe various erosion forms carved by the strong water flow.

After gazing around the cool, moist microclimate cave, return to the junction to continue right, now following the yellow (filled) dot markings. This circle marks the Galbina circuit (Galbinária), along which much of our hike proceeds. The circuit was established by Gyula Czárán, nicknamed the "Prince of Galbina".

300 m later, arrive at a crossroads; go straight for another half kilometer until a sharp left turn ahead appears. Here we reach one of the most exciting points of our hike, the Eskimo Ice Cave (Peștera Ghețarul de la Focul Viu).

The world of eternal chill

The entrance to the second largest ice cave of Bihar is unfortunately closed and only visitable with a guide, but we can peek inside the cold microclimate cave through a barred door, where a year-round ice layer persists. A moderately worn wooden ladder allows a descent; although light penetrates, a headlamp is advisable to better explore the interior. The chill is due to the collapsed ceiling of the large chamber, allowing free inflow of cold air preserved by the windless cave. In the center of the chamber rises a debris cone, partly ice, covered by leaves and branches that fell through the openings.

Due to shorter winters and warming summers, the ice volume is decreasing, and by autumn the cave may become nearly ice-free. The naming is attributed to Gyula Czárán, who called the larger ice mass "Eskimo," which generally remains throughout the year. In winter, another smaller ice mass appears beside it, the "wife." Since the sun melting the "wife" during summer through the collapse, tradition says the Eskimo must choose a new wife each year.

The braver hikers are recommended to also observe the cave exterior: climb the wooden ladders, then turn right and walk to the collapse above the cave. It is very important to admire it only from a safe distance as it is difficult to call for help from the closed cave!

After the Eskimo Ice Cave exploration, return on the yellow dot marked trail to the last intersection, then turn right. This is a variant of the yellow dot marking but differs slightly by having a yellow rim. For the next 2.5 km, follow this. The path begins steeply, climbing nearly 100 m in the dark forest, passing several sinkholes and rocks emerging at the surface. The effort is worthwhile once the view opens to a stone field made of boulders marking the edge of the forest, crowned by the famous Galbina Cliff (Piatra Galbenei) rising to 1243 m.

Breathtaking panorama over the wilderness of Bihar

Once confident of your footing, look down and afar, for one of Pădis' most monumental panoramas unfolds from the plateau’s southern edge. You stand at 1243 m, while below, the Flora Meadow (Poiana Florilor) lies 700 m lower and half a kilometer away. To the left the pointed Barcig Peak rises roughly 100 m higher than you; opposite stretches the Gardul massif. The almost vertical drop of Galbina Cliff is best seen turning right, bordered by Csorba Hill (Stirbina, 1304 m), Tatár Hill (Tartaroaia, 1291 m), and their ridge. The valleys and forested mountains are cut through in the distance by the towering Great Bihar (1849 m), the highest peak of the entire Transylvanian Massif.

After enjoying the view, descend from the rocks. Though markings roughly guide the route, staying on the path isn't always easy. Returning to the forest, glimpses of the lookout reappear, then vanish back into dense mixed woods. Soon another junction appears; hold straight ahead (markings are uniform in all directions). Stroll a charming ridge to Porcika Saddle, named after the 54 m deep Porcika sinkhole (Avenul Bortig) opening there. We take a quick look into this huge 35 m diameter cavity, accessible only to cavers. At its base sits a massive ice block estimated at 30,000 cubic meters, the second largest in Romania.

Curiously, Czárán built two 150-degree ladders at Porcika’s bottom, allowing passage through ice tunnels. However, in winter these tunnels fill with ice and need re-digging every year. At that time, the sinkhole was about 300 m long; today, only 150 m are accessible.

At the forest junction, join the yellow dot marked trail and turn left, following yellow dots painted on trees and rocks, descending 100 m down a steep slope to Csodavár's collapsing rim. We are yet unaware of the spectacular basin awaiting us; if your breath was taken earlier, prepare again! Simply turn left onto the blue dot trail at the upcoming junction, visiting several viewpoints and balconies of Csodavár.

Wonder from above

The tripartite karst basin formed by collapse of sink and cave chambers truly deserves its name. Standing on the western rim of one collapse at Csodavár (Cetățile Ponorului), you see perfectly the 80-100 m high, nearly vertical cliff walls surrounding the basin. We can also spot the next trail, and if other hikers visit simultaneously, their tiny size can be chilling. Behind the northeast-reaching mountain lies Ponor Meadow, unseen but noteworthy; waters of Magura Ridge appear on the surface and sink again below, flowing underground into Csodavár caves.

The surroundings of jagged rocks and enchanted pine forest are very scenic, but the spatial experience is perhaps the greatest treasure. Caution is strongly advised at exposed viewpoints!

Having enjoyed the view, descend into Csodavár, retracing from the viewpoints and following the blue dot markings. A sharp left turn ends the shared section with the yellow circle, and we literally "plunge" into Csodavár, descending steep, rubble-strewn terrain (the old name: Tulogdi gádor), where chains bolted onto rocks sometimes safeguard the path. Though the stretch is spectacular, be careful on the steep, rocky, and slippery trail! At the base of the harsh cliff appears a large cave entrance called the "Gate to the Underworld"; above that, the two recently visited viewpoints are visible. This is the lowest surface point in the Pădis Plateau, 950 m above sea level.

Wonder from below

Although a small sign warns that the cave section is not part of the hiking route, many peer inside the mountain; this is dangerous, with strong water currents. The surface path is tough, requiring climbing over a steep rocky threshold aided by a slightly slanted steel ladder and cables. Slowly unfolds the 73 m high and 30 m wide cave entrance, the monumental Great Portal, the highest cave entrance in the Carpathians. The immense cave gate almost towers over us, gaping open from the depths, its massive rock formations suggesting great depths.

Csodavár is Pădis’ largest and best-known cave system, unique for its massive limestone walls and natural stone gates. Water from underground streams carves the karst body, collapsing at three points to form a triple basin surrounded by nearly vertical rock walls of 100-120 m height. Csodavár’s main watercourse, the Vár stream, here unites with waters from the Lost World sinkholes and Ponor Meadow, flowing underground for 2 km before emerging at the Galbina water source (now at 815 m), creating possibly the wildest spectacle of the area, the Galbina Gorge. The stream then calms and flows first into the Stony Körös, then the Black Körös, continuing towards the Tisza.

From Csodavár’s basin, a steep path initially secured with climbing chains leads out, continuing along the blue dot trail. After overcoming a 70 m elevation difference, reach a mossy dense pine forest junction where the yellow dot trail joins, then 100 m later, red stripe and red cross trails arrive at a resting place by the forest road. Turn left onto the red stripe trail, concluding the hike on the remaining 1.3 km on a less stimulating, gravel-covered, wide forestry road leading back to Glavoj Meadow.