Memorial hike around Zengő

Itinerary:

• From Pécsvárad heading east on Pécsi út, then immediately left to start on Vár utca.
• At the Statue Park we switch to the S trail sign, which leads up to Zengő.
• From Zengő we descend on the yellow Hungarian Pilgrimage route marking towards the Bodzás Valley rain shelter.
• Continuing to descend on the K◼ trail we reach the Réka Hut.
• From the Réka Hut we turn south on the P+ trail.
• At the first fork we turn left onto the yellow St. Martin Pilgrimage route marking which we follow up to Zengővárkony.
• On the main street of Zengővárkony we follow the K+ trail.
• We return to Pécsvárad following the P+ trail (turning right).
• In Pécsvárad we turn left onto the yellow Hungarian Pilgrimage route marking, which leads back to the Statue Park.
• From the Statue Park to the start point we walk along the unmarked Vár utca, then turn right onto Pécsi út.

Description:

Climbing Zengő near Pécsvárad

From Pécsvárad we head east on Pécsi út, then left on Vár utca towards Zengő, the highest peak of the Mecsek. From the castle entrance you can already see the distant double peaks, one of which once held Zengő Castle, and today the lookout tower. It is interesting to compare the contrast between the Pécsvárad castle just a few kilometres away, renovated according to continuous needs as a monument of the conquest era, and Zengő Castle nestled in the old forest, remaining only a stump of its tower and earthworks around the summit, recalling distant past times.

On the S trail, circling the park of the Assumption Church behind the castle, you reach Zengő Street, which after some leveling and a climb at the village edge leads into the forest, following the Csiger Gorge cut. Climbing to the parallel ridge, the path widens and from the forestry road junction it winds up to the eastern spur of Zengő. The ridge-following path initially ascends gently, then after a small saddle we tackle the steep limestone ridge climb.

We gain a tough hundred meters of elevation quickly to the sub-peak, just 50 metres below the top of Zengő. Between the two summits, in an oak forest clearing, a resting spot awaits with tables, benches, and a spacious rain shelter called Viki Rest. This refuge is an excellent spot to rest from the climb or to take shelter in bad weather. One can even sleep on the shelter roof level if choosing this purified form of overnight stay. From here, with one last more gentle push, we take the summit of Zengő.

On top of Zengő

Among old oaks and beeches we arrive at the double summit, where the visibly higher western peak is ringed by a defensive moat, the former castle's protection line. On the northern side stands the stone base of the nearly collapsed tower, the center of the old Zengő Castle and the source of many legends. The upward path features educational boards telling both stories related to the mountain, explaining the origin of its name with a somber tone.

On the summit a steel lattice structure emerges above the tree trunks, the lookout tower built around Zengő's former geodetic tower, offering a captivating view from the highest point of the mountain range. Climbing the airy staircase step by step, you can scan the surrounding forest layers like on a canopy trail, and from above the old measuring tower nearby peaks around the trees become visible. First, to the west stands the neighboring Hármas-hegy with a relay station marking the range's third highest peak. Behind to the left, distant patches of Pécs with colorful houses appear over the characteristic Tubes-Misina mass, recognizable by telecommunications towers and the colossal TV tower. This is the second highest mountain block in the range, originally known as Mecsek peak. Around us ripples the dense Baranya forest on rolling terrain, beyond which agricultural lands appear. In good weather, the Danube at Mohács, the Villány Hills and Croatian Papuk ridges, as well as the northern horizon with the Keszthely Hills, Balaton Uplands, and the higher peaks of Bakony, can be seen.

In the central forests of the Eastern Mecsek

A very steep path leads down the northern side of the mountain - if weather and trail conditions make safe descent doubtful, it is worth considering returning on the S trail and finally accessing the Réka Hut via the P+ trail. The shortest way, however, certainly leads down the northern slope on the yellow Hungarian Pilgrimage route, which after a few hundred meters brings you to the Bodzás Valley rain shelter. After crossing the asphalt road circling Zengő, the ridge continues comfortably, now navigated by the K◼ marking. From the charming hornbeam-oak forest, we turn left down to the neighboring valley's beech shadow, where the trail leads sideways above the wildly winding stream. Fortunately, we traverse briefly and soon reach the mouth of Bodzás Valley, where a magical clearing surrounded by pine forest welcomes you, with a granite-enclosed spring on one side and a cozy forest house on the other. The Réka Hut is operated by the local forestry as a key house, so it is worth considering this accommodation option when doing the round trip. The Réka Hut was originally a hunting lodge, since the mountains around us are covered with dense forests for kilometers, and dense traces along the stream indicate a significant game population. It is advisable to take a break at the tour's turning point and refill our water bottles with clean spring water. The hut has been nicely renovated in 2024, and nearby bivouac accommodations have also been set up.

From here, we turn back southward on the P+ and the yellow St. Martin Pilgrimage route. We quickly escape Bodzás Valley and on the ridge’s dozer road, turning left, continue our hike on the yellow St. Martin Pilgrimage route. If we follow the P+ trail to the right, we soon reach the asphalt road circling Zengő, which heading left and southeast leads most easily back to Pécsvárad. However, it is worth making the pilgrimage path detour, as soon we reach the forested Büdös-kúti Valley gorge, whose comfortable trail takes us to the grove of Patakos Valley. The area once hosted shooting practice, remembered by a few dented signs. From the clearing, we proceed on the Waterworks road, soon arriving at the houses of Zengővárkony.

Between Zengővárkony and Pécsvárad, on the Mediterranean side of the Mecsek

In the village center, we follow the K+ signs for a short section, passing a fortified church, then near the distinctive museums (Straw Treasury and Egg Museum) we turn right following the P+ trail which leaves the village towards the cemetery. Next to the cemetery gate on the opposite side, stairs and a small path lead to the gentle chestnut grove of Zengővárkony where the grave of Pál Rockenbauer is found. The emblematic figure of Hungarian hiking and the National Blue Trail rests here on the sunny hillside according to his will. It is worth taking a few minutes detour to pay respects to the flag bearer of hiking. Around us, the centuries-old chestnut trees’ withered crowns create a strong atmosphere at the site.

A short connecting section ends our loop on the P+ trail: between orchards with views of the Villány Hills and Szársomlyó dome we return to Pécsvárad. From the Reformed Church to the castle, we follow the yellow Hungarian Pilgrimage route. Now we can decide if we still have the energy and enthusiasm to explore the castle, the castle museum exhibitions, and the statue park below the castle. From here, retracing our path along Vár utca and then turning right onto Pécsi út, we return to the bus stop from where we started the tour.