Mediterranean atmosphere around Kisnána

Itinerary:

• Start from the center of Kisnána on the S trail and continue through the Sánc valley and up the Sánc ridge to the main ridge.
• Climb on the K trail to Szederjes-tető, then to the Kis-Zúgó and Nagy-Zúgó hills.
• At the hunting lodge, turn onto the K● trail and descend toward the Csurgó-kút valley.
• From the valley, cut across the hillside on the S+ trail towards the Tatárka clearing.
• Above the Úsztató forestry lodge, at the end of the Sánc valley, connect to the S trail and return to the village.

Detailed description of the route:

On the sunny hillside above Kisnána

From the village center, head north on the S trail along Kossuth Lajos and Reviczky streets. Leaving the houses behind, walk between shrub-covered meadows toward the Mátra ridges. The disturbed hillside was still covered with vineyards until the end of the 19th century. Unfortunately, the root aphid arriving from America, better known as phylloxera, gradually wiped out the vineyards in Kisnána and the surrounding area. The parasite living on the roots preferred dense soil, causing significant destruction in this Mátra wine region. The solution was grafting traditional grape varieties onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks, saving the local viticulture from collapse. Despite this, many abandoned viticulture due to the epidemic, leaving large fallow areas around the village. Alongside the reestablished vineyards, at the edge of a poplar grove, enter the Tarnóca valley and head toward the mountains along the stream.

Passing the Úsztató forestry lodge on the left, enter the oak forest and start an atmospheric forest walk beside a charming stream. In the narrow valley bottom, the Első-Tarnóca creek has carved deeply to the bedrock, forming a small gorge in the valley’s initial section. Our path is accompanied by alternating waterfalls and pools. At a nicely renovated bridge, we cross the rocky riverbed. On a stone-paved forestry road, we slowly climb in the moss-covered oak forest.

After more than a kilometer, with a sharp turn, we almost reverse direction and, leaving the Sánc valley, continue a gentle ascent on the opposite hillside. Until the mid-20th century, an elegant forest castle and hunting lodge ruins could be seen here below Sánc ridge, but the crumbling remains have since been demolished. At the edge of a larger clearing, we leave the forestry road as it continues through a fenced game reserve. We must climb the Sánc ridge in the clearing next to the fence and then in the sparse oak forest. We overcome about two-thirds of the approximately 250 meters elevation gain on this challenging ridge up to the Szederjes-tető summit. At the summit topped by exposed rock blocks, we join a forest road and descend gently to the Mátrabérc and the National Blue Trail route by the Jóidő-kút.

On the undulating ridge of the Eastern Mátra

The Jóidő-kút spring got its name because water only trickles here in good weather, during snowmelt or rainy periods, so do not rely on it for hydration! We follow the K trail westward on the steep eastern slope of Szederjes-tető. This is a more than 150-meter ascent, the steepest and most strenuous section of our hike. Due to the clearings and sparse forest, blackberries grow abundantly on the hill, and our skin will likely turn blackberry-colored on the climb. The ascent eases only at the summit; we arrive at the 677-meter peak through sparse woodland with limited views from the edges. On the northeast side, a small trench shows that a fortification once stood on this steep-sided hill.

Our trials end at Szederjes-tető. From here, the ridge continues westward with gentle undulations as we proceed along the densely forested crest of Kis- and Nagy-Zúgó hills. The ridge alternates between hornbeam-oak and beech forests depending on exposure but remains a pleasant path through authentic mountain trails. On the western side of Nagy-Zúgó hill, we reach the green-painted, fenced hunting lodge where our route turns off the ridge. It is worth pausing beforehand to admire the view, which opens on the opposite side of the hunting lodge at the hill’s northern cliff. Slightly away from the path on the northeast face of the summit, the finest panorama reveals the Csákány-kő, the northern foot of Eastern Mátra, and the distant rolling scenery of Nógrád.

Back to the village

After the hunting lodge, follow the K● trail descending from the ridge through clearings into a stream valley. On the far side, the charming Csurgó-kút spring accessible by a small wooden bridge is a good spot for a rest. A bench and table provide comfort in the shaded spring which flows even in dry weather. An open shelter above the road on the opposite side offers refuge in bad weather.

From Csurgó-kút, for a short stretch, follow the stream flow, then at the S+ junction switch right on a traversing trail on the hillside. In an open, sunny oak forest, descend gently from the hill, with tree bases and ground covered by patches of moss. Such mossy and sunny oak woods are favorable mushroom habitats in autumn and wet summers.

Descending the hillside, cross the clearing of Tatárka known for wild fruit trees remembering the former grazing livestock; shepherds liked to rest in the shade of refreshing fruit trees near the pasture herds. The eastern slope of Messzelátó hill, which we also descend, is called Juhász-köves.

On the increasingly gentle slope, the ridge ends and our path enters the Tarnóca valley. Here we rejoin the S trail already ascended earlier and return by the familiar route to Kisnána.