In the Land of Beehive Stones and Cave Dwellings – Circular Hike in Bükkalja

Itinerary

• We hike from Cserépfalu to the Mész-patak Gorge following the unique markings of the In the Footsteps of the Turks thematic route.
• On the deep path above the gorge, we follow the PT signs to the right.
• From the end of the gorge, the S markings guide us to the Cinegés road junction.
• To the Dobi meadow resting bench, the P+ signs navigate.
• Turning right to the P marking, we walk to the chapel building after the Upper Gorge.
• From the chapel, we go up to the ruins of Cserép Castle on an unmarked path, then return the same way.
• Along the P markings, we descend to the center of Cserépváralja.
• From Cserépváralja, we stroll back to Cserépfalu following the unique markings of the In the Footsteps of the Turks route.

Route Description

Around Cserépfalu

Starting from the center of Cserépfalu, we head east following the unique markings of the In the Footsteps of the Turks thematic route (stylized blue bastion with a crescent above). The Millennium Lookout Tower, towering in front of us, serves as an excellent navigation point; we keep this direction. We cross the Hór stream bridge, then winding through the streets following the markings, we finally reach a staircase. From here, we start ascending the slope of Berezd Peak to the former cave settlement called Little America. Cave dwellings were carved into the well-worked rhyolite tuff, a widespread practice in Bükkalja since the Middle Ages. A 1938 description mentions 12 stone shelters in Cserépfalu and 805 in the entire district, with a total of 4000 inhabitants. Many were built in the early 20th century during significant emigration from the Carpathian Basin to America. The poorest locals, however, reached only this Little America instead of overseas. One of the stone dwellings in the now-ruined cave wall was still inhabited in 1975.

Higher up, we arrive on a flat hayfield on the hillside and aim for the craft tower of the Millennium Lookout. This structure, characteristic of the area and shaped like a bee-hive stone, is made of dacite tuff, with magnificent panoramic views from its windows. Behind Cserépfalu, we see the gorge-like gate of the Hór stream where the water flows from the Southern Bükk to the gentle foothills. To the west stretches the ridge above Eger and Felsőtárkány, clearly recognizable is the Castle Hill and the Nagy-Eged peak.

Wine cellar row and beehive stone – living stone culture

We descend to the top of the Berezdalja wine cellar row, consisting of three streets stacked one over the other. The crumbly volcanic rock has produced soil that nourishes vineyards, which is why the villages of Bükkalja have a significant wine culture past and present. Due to farming, many cellars and storerooms were carved into the slopes at the village’s edge. Although the top row is out of use, the lower ones are still well maintained today. Walking down the steps between the wine press houses and cellars, we can peek into the Nótaaréna entertainment venue carved into the tuff.

Walking through the lower row, we leave the buildings behind and continue along the Mész stream by the lands and farms of the Upper Meadow. Crossing wooded clearings, we arrive at the forested side of Mész Peak. We climb a trail at the base of oaks until reaching the open rocky surface of the Devil’s Slide where we can closely study the rough surface of the rhyolite tuff. Descending, we arrive at the so-called Devil's Tower beehive stone, into which our ancestors carved three niches.

According to one legend related to the Devil's Tower, a church once stood here in ancient times. Its disturbed worshippers began to worship the devil, and when they all gathered inside once, God punished them by sinking the building underground. Since then, only the stone tower rising above the surface remains. Those who pass by at midnight can still hear the repentant worshippers praying for their release.

In the Bükkalja region, 82 beehive stones are known. These natural formations shaped by water and frost erosion have a distinctive conical shape. The creation time and purpose of the human-made niches, however, remain unclear. Researchers propose three possible functions: they were used as rock beehives, urn burial places, or played a role in cult rituals or ceremonies.

Traces of old pastures

Crossing the lower meadow, we return to the Mész stream and turn right on the PT marking along the deep path formed in tuff. Beside us, the watercourse has deepened the canyon called Kőporos Gorge into the rock; in places, we can look well from above into the vertical walls. We pass by a human-made stone niche, then at the end of the gorge turn right on the S marking and walk along a broad path to the Hideg-kút clearing. This long-established pasture area has been used for grazing local livestock for a long time. Crossing the meadow, we pass the named water well and also see a stone shepherd’s shelter.

At the other end of the meadow, we step again among trees next to old oaks, then crossing the partially forested Cserépi pasture we walk to the Cinegés junction. From here, following the P+ signs, we reach the grassy, wildflower-covered Dobi meadow resting spot where we can rest on benches.

From Kő-völgy Gorge to Cserép Castle

Following the P marking to the right, we walk across the Long-necked Meadow to start the section called the Upper Gorge of Kő-völgy, possibly the most interesting part of our route. The gorge carved by the Tardi stream winds among steep rock formations. The erosion-formed rhyolitic tuff or ignimbrite pillars and towers are grouped here. It is a special experience to walk along the streambed beneath the mossy rock walls and fallen blocks. At one point, our path rises to the edge, from where we can admire the gorge from a higher perspective. We also cross the gentler section of Kő-völgy then, crossing the stream, leave behind the rocky world.

We skirt the slope of Mangó Hill with a slight ascent, then step onto a narrow asphalt road. There is an option to turn left on the P▲ marking for a 700-meter detour to visit two interesting beehive stones, the Big and Small Kúp.

Continuing along the P markings, we bypass a fenced building complex, then arrive under the walls of a chapel. The building belonged to a castle built in the 18th century, the latter now completely destroyed. Our route continues on an unmarked path beside the chapel to the nearby ruins of Cserép Castle. Along the way to the top of Castle Hill, we can see a large cave dwelling and also grain storage pits carved into the tuff. The modest ruins of the castle greet us on the peak, and we can read its interesting history on an information board. Returning to the P markings, we descend to Cserépváralja, where shopping is also possible and we can visit the cave dwelling folk house.

Return to Cserépfalu

Back in the center, we switch to the In the Footsteps of the Turks route signs and head towards the other edge of the village. Walking through the village streets, one can see at several gates rooms, chambers, and cellars carved into tuff that are still in use. These are also part of the Bükkalja stone culture included among Hungarian special heritage items. Leaving the last houses, we climb through a pine forest to the saddle of Hegyes-halom, from where shortly after we step onto the bitumen road leading to Cserépfalu. Opposite stands the Nagy-Eged peak above Eger and the ridge section leading to Castle Hill. Descending along the vineyards, passing the traditional porch houses and stone-carved cellars, we arrive back at the village center.