Ice cave and canyon hike on the sunny side of Slovak Paradise

Itinerary

• From Sztracená (Stratená) the K trail leads through the gorge, then on to the ice cave and down to the country road.
• From the bus stop in front of the ice cave, the P trail leads back through the Sztracená canyon (Stratenský kaňon) to our starting point, Sztracená.

Detailed description of the route

The southernmost gorge of Slovak Paradise

Our route starts from Sztracená (Stratená), the small mountain village's train station, located on one of the highest sections of the renowned Margecany – Banská Bystrica (Margitfalva – Besztercebánya) railway line. The railway running through the valleys of the Gelnica and Hron rivers is one of the most scenic lines in Upper Hungary: trains negotiate numerous curves, valley bridges, and tunnels to cross the densely pine-forested mountains. It is worth arriving by train from at least one of the nearby transport hubs to enjoy the beautiful surroundings of the railway during the journey. However, check the timetable beforehand, as trains run more frequently only during the summer hiking season.

As soon as we set off on the K trail in the village, we leave the last houses at a left turn. Next to the outermost gate, a spring with abundant water offers drinks for the hike, then a dark tunnel leads under the railway, and on the other side, we leave the settlement behind, hidden by the embankment, entering the increasingly exciting valley. A lush low-herb forest welcomes us along the stream bank and clearings among the pine groves. It is worth looking back at the first meters to the mountain slope breaking off in dolomite walls, where a terrifyingly steep rock canyon deepens toward the mountain's interior. On our side, the defining feature is the pine forest, mysteriously covering the upcoming excitement. We immediately cross the stream by a bridge, then grasp chains to safely walk on the rocky and steep mountainside. The technical section is short and not as exposed as its more famous counterparts on the national park's northern side. A bridge crosses to the other side at the most rocky part, allowing us to view the gorge from above, where the stream is forced into almost a straight narrow channel. The water deepens these gorges, but its path is determined by geological conditions: in this uniformly pure carbonate region, the valleys cut deepest into main fracture lines between rock blocks. This is the case here in the Tiesňavy gorge, where the stream flows almost exactly to the northeast into the Gelnica river valley.

The initial excitement quickly subsides; the stream is bordered for barely 100 meters by a limestone wall, while the biggest challenge is not the rocky surroundings but the fallen pine trees. We bypass one narrowing with the help of a wall ladder, then cross a short bridge, but higher up, we only dodge pine stumps. The ascent also subsides for a while, so we can enjoy the tranquility of the spreading stream valley and the shady forest. Suddenly, the path turns sharply onto the mountainside, moving away from the stream to tackle the quick ascent, then after about 40 meters elevation, we traverse the forest gently sideways.

A meadow brings the change: suddenly the pine forest thins out, and atmospheric glades colorful with pine groves and wide-open clearings replace the valley bottom. The meadow of Pod Hanesová invites rest, picnicking, and contemplation with a colorful flower carpet. At the beginning of the clearing, we reach a fork: the K trail runs steeply up the mountainside and climbs to the summit of the namesake Hanesová mountain. Since this direction leads to the ice cave, we too should choose the steep path changing into the forest instead of the pleasant valley meadow 'stroll' P trail. Although with a longer detour, one can also reach the ice cave on a section of an unmarked bulldozer road, next to the K trail we can also discover another spectacular cave in the pine forest.

Hidden values beneath the surface

At the halfway point of the ascent, on the steepest rocky section, a dark cave entrance yawns toward the forest: the entrance of the Zelená jaskiňa ('Green Cave') is wide open next to the hiking trail. We can inspect the cave from inside as well; the triple rock mouth provides access to a spacious interior chamber. If it weren't all wet, it could even be a comfortable dwelling cave. A bench and table by the small terrace before the entrance welcome us to rest during the steep climb.

Above the cave, a shallow dry valley shapes the mountainside leading to a clearing, then we climb around to the peak of the mountain at 1100 meters. The dense forest blocks the view; from the previously closed surroundings, here we noticeably reach an open spot, as the steep opposite slope looks toward the Gelnica valley. At the beginning of the steep descent, we immediately see surface karst phenomena impressions, as the mountain surface below was made uneven by water's dissolving effect with rocky collapses. We bypass the huge rock chamber from below and arrive at the entrance of the Dobsina Ice Cave (Dobšinská ľadová jaskyňa). It is definitely worth visiting the UNESCO-protected ice palace, where the works of water and frost, the gigantic glacier-like ice flow, can both terrify and mesmerize. 110,000 cubic meters of ice await us, so bring warm clothing, closed shoes, since truly winter conditions prevail in the cave. Initially, locals used the cave entrance as an ice cellar for cooling until 1870 when Jenő Ruffini and his companions descended into the icy rock hall. The passage was quickly built, enabling tourist traffic, and in 1887 the cave was among the first worldwide to receive electric lighting. Not without reason: researchers and leisure seekers came from far away to marvel at the summer winter. By the 1920s, a bus line transported hikers here from Dobsina, and a skating rink was also created where winter sports could be practiced even in summer, until after World War II. The cave was advertised with skating opportunities; however, in the heyday of winter sports, the neighboring slope also had ski downhill and cross-country tracks, and even a ski jump, which now no longer leave traces.

The cave's descent is comfortable for local conditions: we walk on massive stainless steel grates through the initially only frost-breathed chamber. Of the nearly 1.5 kilometers length of the passage system, we cover over 500 meters, although most of the cave is one huge, sloped chamber, significantly filled by the ice core trapped since the last ice age, dividing the otherwise continuous chamber into several halls. The northern-facing entrance and the sack-like shape trap the winter cold air here, constantly cooled by the millennia-old frozen ice block inside, maintaining an average temperature between -4 and +0.5 degrees Celsius. Experts explain the sack shape with the collapse of a larger cave chamber that fragmented the otherwise continuous passage. Besides the ice, we descend almost to the cave's bottom to a depth of 70 meters. The ice core was drilled through; the pathway follows a corridor carved into the ice, allowing us to see the bands of ice layers frozen to the core from inside, like tree rings. Based on examined samples, the lowest layers are estimated to be 1700–2000 years old, slowly melting where contact with rock occurs, with meltwater seeping into cracks. This forms a massive ice wall at the cave's base, up to 26.5 meters thick. This underground ancient ice world is astonishing, penetrating the cave's interior like a 'glacier,' preserving imprints of ancient winters.

As we climb back to the surface and step out into the fresh forest, we can greatly appreciate the fragrant, mild air outside after the cave's sterile, harsh icy world. The remaining 100 meters elevation difference to the valley bottom is comfortably made on a serpentine gravel road with interesting educational panels alongside. These carefully present the area's history and values from medieval mining to modern competitions with period pictures.

On the banks of the Gelnica river

Descending to the country road, we enter a busy world, and during the summer tourist season, we can have lunch in a restaurant among the old closed and newly built hotels. On the other side of the road, a short nature trail invites to the natural values of the surrounding flat area in the Gelnica floodplain, and the valley bottom meadow opens a wide view westwards: above the impressive rock cap of Ostrá skala, the crown of the King Mountain's shield-shaped summit finishes the distance. The treeless summit of the Eastern bastion of the Low Tatras is already the world of snow, with a huge radio tower and relay station standing, and three significant Upper Hungarian rivers originate on its side. Almost hand in hand, at the same altitude, the Gelnica and Váh start from the northern side valley, and from the mountain foot saddle the Hron. While the Váh is Western Slovakia's main watercourse, and the Hron is the main watercourse of the southern regions, the Gelnica winding before us is the Hernád river's most important tributary.

The initial flatness is soon ended by steep mountains covered with sombre pine forests. Our now P-marked path leaves the narrowing meadow along the stream after a few hundred meters and bends up into the pine forest. We climb over 50 meters up to a saddle, cutting across the large detour of the river valley to go down the same elevation on the other side. Passing under the railway, we follow the road for a while, which finally drills itself into an endless tunnel between closing mountains, just like the railway. Fortunately, there is a way out of the tight spot because a road was opened along the stream that flows into the rock canyon: it was built by Prince Coburg in 1840 to transport coal and processed iron goods required for the smelting works. The lower stone gate of the Sztracená canyon (Stratenský kaňon) had to be demolished, and elsewhere they carved the narrow gorge wider. Until the early 1970s, this road served traffic, until they bored the tunnel next to the railway.

We walk through the idyllic gorge with fast streams and lush undergrowth comfortably. The wildly winding, one-kilometer-long route descends only gently. Here, information boards also present the local wildlife, geology, history, with interesting figures and pictures illustrating their message. Experts say the ancestor of the Gelnica river opened a cave here, the collapse of which left the original, intricate path on the surface. Some cliff walls indeed almost vault over us – the spectacular canyon offers serious heights and perspectives.

The sharp change at the demolished stone gate leads us onto a wide, flat, asphalted area arriving at the country road emerging from the tunnel; after over half a kilometer more, we reach the houses of Sztracená (Stratená) and return to our starting point. In the village (in season), several restaurants operate, worth visiting at the end of the hike before heading home to experience culinary delights.