The Slovak Paradise challenge, a teaser from the karst plateau

Itinerary 

• From Dedinky (Imrikfalva) we hike on the P trail to the neighbouring Biele Vody village.
• From Biele Vody we hike on the K trail up through the Zejmarská roklina gorge (Zejmári-chasm) to the Geravy meadow, at the mountain shelter.
• On the way back we follow the Z trail from the shelter back to Dedinky, our starting point.

Detailed description of the route

Water adventures on the southern side of the Slovak Paradise

Starting from the edge of Dedinky (Imrikfalva), from the Dedinky ski resort which clusters restaurants, hotels and holiday homes, we take the P trail towards the cable car station. This popular holiday centre grew in the 20th century on the southern side of the Káposztafalvi Karst, in a valley surrounded by forests in the upper reaches of the Gôlnic river (Hnilec). In fact, it was the Gôlnic river that created this tourist centre, as the Dobšiná hydroelectric plant feeds on the water of this reliably flowing river that springs from the eastern slopes of the Low Tatras. The mountain stream was dammed here below Dedinky at the former Palcmanhuta in 1953, creating the Imrikfalvi reservoir (Palcmanská Maša), the water of which is channeled through the mountains to the much deeper Sajó valley, utilising the enormous amount of water with turbines. Besides being a fishing paradise and a bathing spot, there is a trout farm at the upper end. The mountain lake, nearly a kilometre wide and nestled in slopes covered with dense pine forests, is extremely scenic and supports the village's tourism.

The P trail continues resolutely up the mountainside that opens onto a mountain meadow, climbing nearly 100 meters in altitude in the first half kilometre. At the top of the ascent, we arrive at the Pri dedinke pass, which offers a wonderful view of the reservoir and the houses around the ski slope. On the other side of the pass, we descend along a path bordered by old trees into the Biela voda valley. Originally, there was a ski slope here too, but all winter sports facilities have visibly fallen into neglect. We barely pass through the settlement area of Biele Vody, which consists of some holiday homes, public institutions, and cross a stream bridge before turning onto a left-branching path, the K marked tourist route.

Entering the pine forest, a wooden hut immediately blocks our path, where an entrance fee is charged during the summer season for further trail use. Actually, only a few euros must be paid here, but it’s well worth it as the essential maintenance of ladders and chains, and the construction of the path is assured by this modest sum. Barely leaving the clearing by the "hut on the route", the path accompanied by a fast-flowing creek leads into the Zejmári-chasm (Zejmarská roklina) gorge between rocky slopes. The trail becomes steeper, requiring ladder assistance to cross small rock climbs. Finally, a rock band stands as a permanent barrier on the trail, with interesting cavities and chapels carved by the stream water in the impressive rock wall, where ladders and chains lead alongside the waterfalls of the stream. An exciting 100 meters follows, where we ascent stepwise on the shattered rock surface, climbing smooth parts with ladders, while the parts rich in natural steps and holds are overcome only with the help of metal plates and chains. The last climb is the steepest: here we climb out onto the rock face top with a nearly 15-meter ladder, from which there is a view of the valley below, the opposite forest and cliffs.

On the Káposztafalvi Karst plateau

From here, the steepness softens; on the limestone mountain plateau, we no longer have to overcome significant elevation, just follow the natural fall of the stream flowing between strata a few more tens of meters higher. The trail leads through a broad corridor filled with rocks in the stream bed that splits the atmospheric dense forest. We climb out of the stream side on a gently sloping rock surface secured with chains, then followed by an easy forest walk on the plateau meadow.

Passing by a spring, we near the mountain shelter where a restaurant operates. We reach a forest crossroads in a dense mixed pine forest, from which with a short detour we visit the Geravy meadow, the forest-edge tourist shelter (to which we will return to descend on the Z trail back to the village). Before this, we take a look at the mountain shelter and the plateau meadow along the common K and Z trails.

Crossing a rocky rise, we reach the Geravy meadow where fenced-off areas host wild boars, deer, and domestic animals such as goats, sheep, and upland cattle. The patchy plateau meadows with pine groves were established by local inhabitants on a flat area surrounded by steep, wooded slopes, as a well-sized, moist surface was available here for pastures and hay meadows, requiring regular clearing of the plateau forest. In return, such alpine meadows were created where besides sheep and cattle, higher mountain zone species can settle. The rich insect fauna is well exemplified by the strictly protected Apollo butterfly and the ainsleya (purple emperor); in spring, the purple-colored saffron meadows form the most spectacular botanical attractions of the meadow.

The Geravy mountain hotel and tourist shelter (Horský hotel Geravy) welcomes tired hikers at the southwestern edge of the meadow. Its rather simple, unadorned structure is not very attractive, but its pine board cladding, panoramic terrace, and mainly its menu and beverage selection tempt visitors. The interior space is also austere, reminding more of a hunting lodge with taxidermy animal heads on the walls. The concrete stairway leading to the building splits it in two; on the right is a simpler tourist lodging, on the left operates the mountain hotel. It is definitely worth staying here overnight as the dusk and night plateau have a unique atmosphere. In the morning, we often wake up to the sight of a fog belt lying above the meadow, as the moist plateau air often cools significantly in the mornings, resulting in condensation.

Back to the valley, descent to Dedinky waterfront

After recharging in the shelter, walking around the meadow, and observing the wild and domesticated animals in the enclosure, after a bit of introductory roller coaster ride we descend back to the village. For this, we return to the junction already touched on, from where we continue on the Z trail along the path beside the cable car. The zigzagging trail through pine and beech forest crosses the straight cable car ropeway on the most comfortable alignment. After crossing a small hollow, we go left to circumvent the mountain top where the tourist trail avoids a viewpoint jutting out from the mountainside. The spectacular rock cliff only has an unmarked path leading to it, but the barely 100-meter detour is worth taking for the panorama it offers. The dense pine-covered ridges of the Gömör-Szepesi Ore Mountains stretch around us in all directions, and below, the deeply cut valley of the Biela voda creek, touched on at the start of our hike, intersects the mountains.

The trail swings back below the cable car, and after a short lead-in, steeply "plummets" into the rocky plateau edge ravine. At times rocky, but along the entire stretch covered in stones and boulders, we have to descend carefully, taking our time and paying attention to only move with sure steps on this accident-dangerous section. After a descent of more than 100 meters in elevation, the slope's steepness eases, the hollow broadens into a valley, and the forest also remains behind the mountain edge. From here, we cross gentler foothill meadows, and the houses of Dedinky (Imrikfalva) appear on the valley bend.

The settlement built in the basin of steep mountain slopes was founded by miners. Iron and copper were mined in the surrounding mountains, and later, for metal extraction and processing, hammer mills and forges were set up in the vicinity. The area was owned for a long time by the Csáky family, and the settlement was named Imrefalva or Imrikfalva after Count Imre Csáky. The village, mainly gathering Slovak settlers, was merged with Kisistvánd in 1933 and named Dedinky. The biggest change came in 1953 when a dam was built at Palcmanhuta on the bank of the Gôlnic river, which flooded the river all the way to the village's outskirts. From then on, tourism driven by the mountain and waterfront border situation took over the leading role in village life.

Descending among charming log houses and neat plots, we reach the village square where the reservoir is also accessible next to the Catholic church built in the mid-19th century. There is also a bus stop here, but it is worth ending the tour along the lakeshore with water sport opportunities, free beaches, buffets, and restaurants, refreshing ourselves in or by the water according to our needs.