Hike among the stone dragons of Szomolya

Itinerary

• From Szomolya, the P▲ sign starting next to the Community House leads up the hillside.
• At the T-junction on the hill, turn left onto the dirt road to reach the viewpoint at Nagyvölgy Peak.
• From the viewpoint, we return to the junction along the same dirt road.
• The P▲ sign leads to the Kaptárkövek nature trail.
• After walking through the nature trail, we walk back to the village on the way we came, following the P▲ sign.

Detailed description of the route

Life underground

We set off south on Szomolya’s main street (in the direction of the junction), where we immediately turn right, continuing down the P▲ marked path. The street gently rises along the hillside; shortly after, the settlement appears on the right, along with the volcanic tuff which shaped the whole region’s history and into which dwellings have been clearly carved.

The eruptions of the Carpathian volcanoes, which have since been buried under the Great Plain, covered the surface with several hundred meters of ash and debris. The compacted material, tuff, is resistant but easy to carve and split; for this reason, it has a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship in the Bükkalja region. The locals primarily carved stone railings, porch pillars, gravestones, hand mills, window frames, drinking troughs, and religious cult objects from it. Since soils rich in trace elements and minerals form on the tuff, and the terrain’s southern exposure and elevation provide abundant sunlight, viticulture spread widely in the area. This layer was also excellent for winemaking since, despite its strength, it is easy to carve cellars into it, and its porous structure ensures the cellar’s humid air breathes relatively well.

Locals built various types of cellars: not only storing grapes but also grains in some pits; there was even one used to store the town’s or landlord’s tithe wine. To this day, you can see stone stables—wide, low shelters carved into the rock—such as at the saddle between Csobánka Hill and Mész Hill, at the meeting point of the P+ and S markings—although unfortunately, this is on private property. On Nyerges Hill, a hiding place, a small living cave, can also be visited.

At the edge of Szomolya, cellars built along the route represent the simplest type—used for storing wine but previously inhabited by tenants or even wealthier landowners. By the end of the 20th century, residents moved out of these deteriorated, poorly ventilated caves. This special type of dwelling can be best understood by visiting the Szomolya Local House.

"Customs border" on the edge of the Great Plain

Continuing up the slope, we reach a junction within minutes; turning left, we can already see our first goal, the Nagyvölgy Peak viewpoint. The hive stones are to the right, but first, let's make a detour to the tower! There is no marking, but the building is impossible to miss on the dirt road. The stone-base tower was erected in 2024 by two locally born friends, replacing the previous rotten wooden structure.

The view is dual. To the north rises the forested massif of the Bükk Mountains, its height not quite overwhelming as we observe it from an elevated point, a hill ridge. Szomolya lies in the valley, and Noszvaj also appears embraced by forests. Attentive observers may notice the rock faces of Tar-kő and Hármakő, parts of the Bükk Plateau’s edge. Turning west, the Mátra ridge also emerges in the distance, first the Kékes massif, then the Galya Peak.

Regarding the nearer, gentler topography: the part of the hill range that merges into the plain’s edge is covered in a wide belt from southwest to northeast with volcanic tuff, south of which a alluvial cone raises the terrain. One could say the edge of the Great Plain collects mountain arrivals: streams carrying karst water flow from the hills onto the flattening plain, slow down and lose power, and significantly contribute to the sediment supply to the edge of the Great Plain, which was taken from the Bükk heights. The sprawling ridge forms a gradual transition toward the flat terrain.

Returning from the viewpoint, we soon reach a crossroads which we cross straight this time. Within minutes, walking along the dirt road, we arrive at the junction where the P▲ sign turns left. We cross the Natura 2000 protected Kaptár Meadow, which, due to continuous grazing, is a trampling-resistant grassland, thus home to many protected plant and animal species. Shortly, we can spot among the trees the entrance modeled surely on the gate of Jurassic Park, inviting us to the Kaptárkövek nature trail. Due to the relief and rock block protection, fenced metal walkways, many steps, and terraces guide us through the area, with information boards ensuring the opportunity to learn.

Among the stone dragons

As we tread the steps, feeling and seeing, we are on a steep slope—partly shaped by quarrying started in 1958 (mainly on the eastern side of the exhibition area). Fortunately, the area was declared protected two years later to ensure the preservation of the hive stones. Right after the first right turn, we encounter a large hive stone. Although these pointed stone caps were called Devil’s Tower, Goat Stone, Window Stone, or even Stone Dragons, the name ultimately deriving from beekeeping prevailed.

There is no certain explanation for the purpose of the rock formations’ hollow interiors; we must be content with hypotheses, none fully proven. On the side of the first stone tower, we already observe small carved niches surely caused by human intervention, but their function remains questionable (there are 82 hive stones in the Bükkalja, with 479 niches). A frame runs around the latter’s edge, where they might have placed a cover fixed with wedges driven into holes.

In many places, traces of a passage related to beekeeping are visible: supposedly insects moved through them. However, there are no records of rock beekeeping in the Carpathian Basin; only folk tradition around Eger mentioned that Turks might have used these stones for it. Researchers have found no proof, and they also find it peculiar that this activity suddenly ceased after the Turks’ departure. One niche’s axis at the first hive stone is so slanted that it questions the possibility of beekeeping.

Fortunately, we know more precisely about natural processes: the hive stones were extracted by water erosion under their softer crust layers. After descending some steps, we admire the next rock mound. This is a rock group fractured and split with narrow crevices, where holes gouged into the side of niches can be studied well; some consider them bee flight holes. If we continue down the ramp, we shortly reach stairs leading to the lower end of the exhibition area. A modest resting place has been created in a meadow below.

At the junction stands the next hive stone, at the base of which 14th-15th century ceramic fragments were found during excavations. Some theories suggest the niches were used much earlier, in the Iron Age, for sacred purposes. They were even thought to be urn burial sites of Celtic tribes (around Eger, there was a long-standing folk tradition that the ashes of leaders fallen in a pagan revolt were placed here), as well as sacrificial sites and idol holders.

A little further descent follows, leading us to the largest hive stone: the one known as the King’s Chairs, the pinnacle of the peaks. It has the tallest (112 cm) and the most (48) niches and is perhaps also the most ornate. Its crevice has its own name, the Dog’s Stranglehold. Since the terrace is a dead-end, we must turn back to step onto a small viewing terrace (which offers no significant panorama due to the flat, wooded landscape and valley position), then we reach the exhibition area’s resting place carved into the rhyolite tuff, where a rain shelter resembling a rocket turret stands at its center. The carved rock wall is the work of quarrying, which also trimmed the originally tallest hive stone (located outside the exhibition area). Information boards introduce us to the geological history of the area, letting us immerse ourselves in the mysteries of volcanic activity.

The metal ramp soon leads us off the nature trail. Turning left, we finally return to the previously trodden path, leading back to the village.