From cellars to springs at the western gateway of Mátra

• From the center of Szurdokpüspöki we follow the P sign to reach the cellar row.
• At the end of the cellar row, turn right onto an unmarked path, cross it – and arrive at a small chapel – to the Z+ sign.
• From the chapel we follow the Z+ signs to the junction located on the western side of Isten-fa-tető.
• From the junction an unmarked, very steep path leads down to the Holy Cross Spring.
• From the spring we return to the Z+ sign and follow it to the P+ sign.
• We follow the P+ signs to the Köszvény Spring.
• From Köszvény Spring we return to Szurdokpüspöki on the unmarked embankment of an old narrow-gauge railway along the road.

Detailed description of the tour:

In the birthplace of Kolos Hanák

Szurdokpüspöki got its name from the Szurdok Stream that cuts deeply, creating a gorge-like valley – which we will also pass during our tour –, and "püspöki" refers to a former owner of the area: Szurdokpüspöki, with nine other villages, was bestowed by King Saint Stephen in 1004 to the bishopric of Eger.

We start the tour from the Szurdokpüspöki, Szabadság Square bus stop. From here, we follow the P sign to discover the charming village. In 1851, the father of Mátra tourism, Kolos Hanák, was born here; we can learn about his life and work at the memorial and community house named after him. He was responsible for establishing the first marked hiking trails in the mountain range and was also a founder of the first Hungarian tourist association, the Mátra department of the Carpathian Tourist Association. On the centenary of his death in 2023, a statue was erected by the municipality, and a lookout between Mátrafüred and Mátraháza also bears his name.

Wine and water

At the northeastern edge of the village, along Béke Street, a charming cellar street features quaint press houses lined up. Historically, more than a hundred hectares of vineyards were cultivated around the village, but today production is limited to small plots with varieties such as Ezerjó, Kékfrankos, Kékportó, and Muskotály going into barrels. The P sign leads through the cellar street and then, at the end, by a public well, we turn right onto an unmarked path – soon crossing onto the Z+ sign.

We leave a small chapel behind and then descend steeply on an unmarked path to the Holy Cross Spring located on Hollós Hill. Alternatively, we recommend the asphalt road on the eastern border of Szurdokpüspöki, which allows access to the spring without significant elevation gain.

The Holy Cross Spring (or Mother of God Spring – this dual name reflects the duality of beliefs associated with the spring) is drunk not only by locals but also visitors from distant parts of the country. According to folk belief, the Virgin Mary rested here and quenched her thirst, which gave the spring’s water curative powers. Besides Catholicism, followers of ancient Hungarian mysticism regard the area as a site with special energy, and they have also restored it: a huge wooden roof carved in the form of a turul bird was erected above the spring. Thus, the Holy Cross Spring’s sacredness and its built environment embody a syncretism of two seemingly contradictory faiths.

From the spring we must climb back onto the Z+ trail, where the steep, unmarked path upwards is unavoidable. The trail passes by a cave, through which you can peer inside the narrow entrance: a Franciscan hermit lived here in the 18th century.

Panoramic ascent, rugged gorge

The Z+ sign leads up to the 442-meter-high Isten-fa-tető. Approaching the summit, you exit the forest, enjoying beautiful views of the surrounding mountains, including the solitary block of the neighboring Nagy-hársas.

On the far side of the peak, turn right onto the P+ sign. We pass through the Mátra Buffalo Reserve, where besides the namesake animals, horses and donkeys keep a watchful eye on us. The hiking trail descends into the Szurdok Stream valley, which contains two springs: Eszter Spring and Köszvény Spring. The latter’s iron-rich water was believed to have healing properties, as its name suggests.

After Köszvény Spring, we turn back and head west along the main road between Szurdokpüspöki and Gyöngyöspata. After passing Eszter Spring, we can take a detour along an old service road closed with a barrier to the old quarry of the village; there, in winter during prolonged freezing days, huge ice cascades form on the quarry walls. We return to Szurdokpüspöki following the unmarked embankment of the old railway along the main road, passing the Fenyves Inn.