Exploring the shark fin and whale back of the Great Fatra

Itinerary

• In the Teplá valley, we follow the S mark passing the mountain accommodation Útulňa Limba to the pass below Rakytov (Severné Rakytovské sedlo).
• To Rakytov we climb up on the left following the Z mark, then continue along the ridge to the pass called Sedlo Ploskej.
• We take a detour to the summit of Ploská along the S mark (to the right).
• Finally, we descend on the S mark to the settlement part Vyšná Revúca of Liptovské Revúce.

Detailed description of the hike

A glimpse into the forested mass of the Great Fatra

We start from the Revúca creek valley at the lower border of Liptovské Revúce (Háromrevuca), from the mouth of the Teplá valley, following the S mark. We proceed through dense pine forest on a well-marked, wide forestry road heading towards the mountain center, which after one kilometer reaches a rocky narrowing. The small gorge does not hide great excitement but prepares us for the diverse geology and exciting landscape of the mountain range, characterized by a wave-like and sometimes dramatic terrain shaped by softer and harder rocks. The largest mass of the mountain is formed by this middle Jurassic, yellowish marl limestone. The highest peaks are built from it, thus after the gorge, Rakytov, which peeks out above the forest, is our first destination, towering at a sweat-inducing height over us.

The path gradually climbs as after the short gorge, winding in the valley, we approach the foot of the mountain. We pass a cozy hunting lodge, above which the valley narrows again, and the wide forestry road bends back to the hillside. Continuing on a less used, bumpy cart road along the valley bottom, crossing a creek branching into streams, we suddenly take a spontaneous dash up the slope. We tackle significant elevation gain climbing the side ridge branching from Rakytov, crossing a recently abandoned forestry road and touching the small mountain shelter Útulňa Limba on the edge of a splendid mountain meadow surrounded by old beeches.

The cabin, also serving as accommodation, can only be used for overnight stays with prior reservation, as the staff is not permanently present on the mountain. A small atmospheric pond lies beside the house, but the most impressive sight is the panorama opening from the meadow. For the first time, we can look around the colorful mountain region dotted with dense mixed forests and patchy meadows extending to the main ridge of the Low Tatras on the distant horizon. The surrounding mountains’ forests and meadows have provided economic treasures to the naturally valuable Liptó county. The steep slopes supplied timber, while the gentler valleys and mountain tops nurtured the sheep flock, producing cheese and wool for the population.

Above the house, we cross a forest belt shaded by old beech trees but soon reach alpine pastures, and by circling the steep mountain ridge, we arrive at the pass below Rakytov’s northern foot (Severné Rakytovské sedlo). From here, we switch to the Z mark on the ridge (keeping left) and attack the uniformly steep mountain ridge from the northeast side with a final push. If the weather is unfavorable, the path icy, or if we want to skip the steep climb and descent, the S mark elegantly avoids the Rakytov summit from the west and connects to the Z mark on the far side to continue the ridge hike.

Climbing and traversing in the summit region along the bright green path of the Great Fatra

On the Z mark, we dash onto the rocky, narrowing ridge and struggle through a mixture of dwarf pine forest and rocky grassland patches to overcome the last 150 meters of elevation difference. After the previously panoramic-restricted path, here, almost entirely on the ridge, we are accompanied by a wide panorama. We focus on the stepped rocky trail, but during short rests, our gaze catches the seemingly endless mountain range. Steep valleys and peaks characterize the landscape in both directions; the Great Fatra mountain world is particularly wild, home for large Carpathian predators.

At the end of the climb, we reach a narrow summit from which a true circular panorama unfolds. From the highest peak outside the main ridge, we see most of the northern part of the Great Fatra. Key to the mountain range is the Ľubochnianska dolina (valley), which splits the range’s two side ridges by a fragmented indentation—in front of its far branch, the mountain range of the Lesser Fatra appears. Interestingly, the 'little brother’s' northern block is higher than the Great Fatra itself, but by its extension dominates the center of Western Slovakia and forms a continuous forested mountain range with the Low Tatras, whose main ridge already winds eastward as a long grassy ribbon. In especially lucky cases, if visibility allows, the Liptov hills and the jagged peaks of the High Tatras can be seen beyond the wide Vág valley; their once glacier-cut, sharp summits stand out sharply from other mountain ranges.

The southern side of the mountain is no gentler than the ascent, so carefully, step by step, searching for solid support, we weave along a path through dwarf pine bushes. We start descending on the western mountain ridge but soon turn south and reach the pass (Južné Rakytovské sedlo) on the southwestern ridge.

From here, together with the ridge, we undulate among pine woods and the clearings and larger meadows among them. We bypass the first mountain ridge on the right, then the Minčol ridge on the left, keeping close to the level. The winter route follows the mountain ridge here due to avalanche-risk snow slopes formed on the steep drop. Arriving on the far side of Minčol, the prominently rising tent-shaped Čierny kameň (Black Stone) peak defines the wide meadow’s atmosphere. Solitary pines on the pleasantly sprawling meadow make the landscape particularly interesting, as if all of them marvel at the rocky idol-like mountain towering over them. The limestone block forming the ridge has been pushed by tectonic movements onto the wide, softer, younger sedimentary rock base below. The older, harder bituminous limestone resists erosion attacks better; formed in a deep-sea environment, its dark rocks, solidified into stone for over 200 million years, defy time and the elements with an imposing appearance. The forest-crowned rock towers gloomily overlook the surrounding deteriorating world. The national park highly values and provides enhanced protection for this rock-structured mountain mass.

The Z marked path bypasses the Čierny Kameň massif from the gentle western side. We also pass a spring in the dense pine forest, then gradually start climbing towards the wide mass of Ploská. If we run out of time or are exhausted by the previous climb or if weather conditions become untenable, we can descend to the village on the P mark before Čierny Kameň. The same applies on the far side of the mountain; as we arrive at the pass below Ploská (Sedlo Ploskej), we can comfortably leave the ridge on the S mark. However, from here, we can climb up to the nearby summit, overcoming the 150-meter ascent along a gentle, flat ridge.

On Ploská, the eastern and northwestern ridges separated by the wedged-in Ľubochnianska dolina converge, while to the south, the main ridge continues excellently visible in continuous grassy paths. The broken western part of the Great Fatra emerges as a new valley system, with our western neighbor, the summit of Borišov, below which the cozy Chata pri Borišovom also 'greets us'. The mountain shelter is an excellent place to spend the night on the mountain; so, if we can, we use it, taking advantage of the house’s panorama opening above the forests that provides an eternal experience for dining and accommodation.

Descent into the Revúca valley

Once we have filled our eyes with the endless mountain landscape from the summit of Ploská, we turn back towards the pass and start our descent on the S mark. We walk down the ridge along the wide backtrack already covered, then turn onto the valley near the mountain shelter below the pass. The simple, rustic ground-floor hut (Salaš Mogury), intended as a mountain refuge, offers a chance for a short rest, with a bench and table inside, allowing us to rest our legs for a moment before the long hike ends and the descent begins. Thanks to shepherding that survived centuries, many pine huts have been built along the edge of the wide grassy ridge, typically near springs, and hikers have also used these accommodations as shelters. This renovated hut provides protection against the mountain ridge’s hardships, as strong winds assault the ridge lying nearly crosswise to the prevailing wind direction, with precipitation mostly falling as snow or ice, but summer showers also posing a serious threat in the exposed open terrain.

We start a dynamic descent on the slope of the clearing below the pass, from which after a few hundred meters form ridges made by streams arising from nearby springs. Initially, we find another wooden hut also serving as a mountain shelter. Near the elevation of Salaš Mogury, on the opposite mountain ridge stands Salaš Krátka, and below Čierny kameň we also find a house, Salaš Koniarka. The elevation around 1200 meters makes it popular because springs originate here from the mountain ridge behind us, providing constant water for humans and animals alike.

We descend through patches of clearings and pastures, gaining a fine view into the approaching valley. Gradually, the houses of the village appear: once log houses were popular here in the dense pine mountain area, but unfortunately, only a few representatives remain in the village today. Winding somewhat in the increasingly steep gully, we arrive at the main street lined with houses—the center of the uppermost part of Liptovské Revúce (Háromrevuca)—which we reach on the S mark. We finish our hike at the timeless church, pub, and bus stop trio. We can give thanks to the skies if we have time for a refreshment before the bus or roll down to our car along the Revúca creek.