Lightning visit above the clouds

Itinerary

• From the main road, turn left onto the asphalt and follow the P marking, which leads to the Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč) summit.
• From the summit, descend back to the starting point along the same P marked route.

Detailed description of the route

From the valley to the summit

The hiking trail to the summit branches off the lightly trafficked road following the Ráztočná stream valley at a widening point of the valley. The P marking initially follows a steeply ascending asphalt strip (to the left), which we follow deep into the mountain range. At one point, the narrow valley slightly opens, the asphalt bends, and we continue on a limestone gravel path. On the lower section of the trail, we share the path with the stream and higher up, reaching a valley branch, we cross a ford to the opposite bank of the babbling stream. On the right, a clear-cut offers a view of the spectacular cliffs of Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč): the crag looms ominously from the height, the path to the summit is still long – in fact, the hardest part lies ahead of us.

The trail climbs straight up through a muddy soil groove. The slope is now covered by a natural mixed forest, but at the beginning of the last century (taking advantage of the extreme steepness), trees cut higher up were slid down here. The exhausting ascent does not ease, crossing a logging road, and an old spruce forest dominates in a corridor. The dark forest opens slightly; here a sign draws attention that we are crossing the boundary of a nature reserve with the highest level of protection, and on our right, a shelter closed on three sides offers a resting place. As is common in Slovak mountains, overnight stays are possible in the loft of the structure (cocooned in a sleeping bag).

A sign presents the rather rich wildlife: the Kócs Mountains (Chočské vrchy) “strada” is a corridor for large predators sensitive to disturbance traveling between the Fatra and Tatra ranges, but bears, wolves, and lynx also inhabit the extensive forest covering the main summit massif. Europe's largest feline primarily prefers rocky, secluded terrains, while the brown bear roams mainly flatter, sometimes open areas abundant with “forest fruit plates” – its meals must also share space with the very rare capercaillie, which seeks undisturbed places. Signs ask that the marked hiking trail not be left and that one should avoid wandering deep in the forest after dark or before sunrise to avoid bear encounters and disturbance of the animals. Of course, the rocky outcrops and dense forests also provide shelter for important birds of prey: the golden eagle also lives in this mountain range.

After a short wooded section, the trail opens up at a clearing in a saddle named Žimerová, revealing the peaks of the Small (Malý Choč) and Great (Veľký Choč) Kócs Mountains stretching above the trees. The distance has decreased considerably since the last glance, but the two crags still majestically adorn the heights. We overcome the remaining elevation difference in two stages: first, we ascend serpentine to the saddle between the peaks, then cross the dwarf pine belt surrounding the ridge directly and purposefully. On an old spruce-beech forest gently ascending logging road, later on a lateral path crossing a spring, we reach below the saddle, where the regularly gusting wind has severely battered the forest. For the first time, we gain a wider view before reentering the forest on a muddy ascent equipped with chains. A steep, winding path leads to the base of the Malý Choč (“Small Kócs”) crag, where from a ladder there is a panorama turning relatively low towards the Liptov Mountains (Liptovské vrchy), behind them the Tatras region, and on the southern side over the Liptov Basin framed by the Low Tatras (in the center with the reflection of the St. Mary Reservoir (Liptovská Mara)).

The summit panorama

Here the path is secured with chains but is not very technical, though it includes some quite large natural steps through the rocky gate leading to the saddle separating the two peaks. The view from the clearing reveals pure Carpathian romance: endless mountain ranges wave like a sea between the pines in the Great Fatra. As we climb higher, the landscape takes on alpine character, the spruce slowly yielding to dwarf pines, and the dolomite cliffs of the Kócs-havas repeatedly poke their heads out of the terrain (looking back, the rocky ridge of Malý Choč dominates the view). On the steep trail, we encounter points secured with chains and handholds before reaching the side terrace of Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč). Standing immediately above the dizzying 400-500 m drop, we can survey the entire route and the mountain's structure, and from the 1608 m summit spot, the view soars high above a huge section of Slovakia, as if standing on the very top of the country – so wide and rich is the panorama.

All higher mountain ranges of the Northwestern Carpathians come into view: in the east, the Liptov Mountains collect clouds, and behind them, the Kriváň massif of the High Tatras appears; to the south, the silhouette of Gyömbér Peak rises from the Low Tatras' mass. Turning eastward, the busiest view shows the dense mountainous terrain of the Great Fatra, next to it the grassy crest of the Small Fatra arches high, and notably, the rocky crown of the Great Rozsutec. Looking north, the regular cone of Babia Hora dominates the gentler ridges of the Beskids. The list of characteristic points would be long, but a metal disk with directions and inscriptions helps to identify them. The summit itself is built of dolomite, which remains patchy on the limestone mantle spreading lower.

The extensive clear-cut areas in the forest below and strips harvested in narrow bands resembling combs mar the landscape. These latter marked, jump-cut clearings are common in Slovakia: the method partly or wholly relies on natural forest regeneration, so the width of cut strips cannot exceed the height of the trees (so that seeds can cover the full surface of the strip). Compared to classic clear-cutting, the remaining forest climate changes less, the habitat does not completely disappear, and as one strip grows, the previously retained one is cut – thus finally forming a more diverse age structure in the entire stand than in a fully harvested plot. Looking east, you can see that in the Kócs Mountains, monoculture spruce forests are mostly replaced by more resilient and more biodiverse mixed forests. However, the higher terrain on the west side is protected as a reserve, where no signs of logging can be detected.

After enjoying the views, we descend back to the car by following the P marking, taking about two and a half hours.