In the full splendour of Kócs-havas

Itinerary

• From the center of Lúčky we follow the P marking (with a short, unmarked detour at the first corner to the waterfall) all the way to the Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč) summit.
• From the summit we descend on the Z marking to the Stredná Poľana clearing. (In snowy weather, from the summit to the clearing, follow the winter route (zimná trasa) marked with P, then the black marking branching off to the left.)
• From the clearing we follow the K marking to the right towards Valaská Dubová.

Detailed description of the hike

At the foot of the karst, in the realm of waters

Lúčky (Lucski) gives the impression of a true mountain village: along the road, a fast-flowing creek rushes in front of long houses, behind which rises a mountain covered with pine forests. We start uphill along the street following the P marking, and as we will soon see, the appearance of the settlement at the foot of the karst is shaped by the kaleidoscope of waters emerging on the surface. At the first junction, we turn onto the promenade opposite. To the right, a waterfall fills the park with sound: be sure to stroll out to the edge of the pond and admire the 12 meter high cascade from the front. This veil-like cascading waterfall branching into several streams over freshwater limestone terraces is one of Slovakia's most important natural heritage sites designated as a national natural value — a title held by only four others.

At the top of the steps of the hiking trail, we can walk behind the roaring edge and observe the creek tumbling down limestone steps partly fed by warm springs, similar to the Fátyol waterfall near Szilvásvárad. Further up, we leave the newer part of the village and then a spacious green area, and as the mountain ridge narrows, the sizeable building complex of Lucskifürdő (Lúčky Spa) appears on the left. Rainwater seeping through cracks in the limestone rocks in the area warms underground, then surfaces along the fractured mountain blocks, fissures, and deep drillings — now as therapeutic thermal water. The first bathhouse, built in 1761, was for water effective primarily in treating gynecological, musculoskeletal, and nervous system diseases. Although this made it one of the oldest spas in Upper Hungary (Felvidék), it offered relatively modest comfort to its guests. Today, outdoor pools and restaurants can be found in the village, and the spa atmosphere is defined by the mountain environment — when turning back, the massive mountains of the Low Tatras also appear above the rooftops.

Leaving Lúčky, we follow a lightly trafficked asphalt road running through the mountains in the valley of the Ráztočná creek, which gradually narrows, but there is still room in the former pastures for a beautiful, wide meadow at the foot of the mountains. Soon, however, even this space disappears, and we arrive at another clearing in a narrow gorge, where a sign and (usually) parked cars indicate that it's time to head towards the (still hidden) mountain summit. The P marking turns sharply left onto a steeply ascending asphalt strip; we tread this road deeper into the mountains. The narrow valley opens a little at one point, the asphalt turns, and we continue on a limestone gravel path. In the lower section of the path, we share it with the creek, then reach a fork in the valley, stepping across the burbling stream by a ford. On the right, a clear-cut gives a view of the colossal cliffs of Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč); the rocky spur looks down menacingly from a foreboding height, and the summit is still a long way ahead — more importantly, the hardest part is yet to come.

Climbing at the foot of the cliffs

The path goes straight up in a muddy rut. The slope is now covered with a mixed forest that seems natural, but at the beginning of the previous century (taking advantage of the extreme steepness), trees felled higher up were slid down here. The exhausting ascent doesn’t ease; we cross a service road, and in a band, an old spruce forest dominates. The dark forest slightly opens up here; a sign calls attention that we are crossing the border of a protected nature reserve (highest protection category), and to our right, a shelter enclosed on three sides offers rest opportunities. As is common in Slovak mountains, the structure’s attic, where sleeping bags can be used for overnight stays, is available. A sign introduces the rather rich wildlife: the Kócs Mountains (Chočské vrchy) 'corridor' between the Fatra and Tatras ranges is frequented by large carnivores sensitive to disturbance, but bears, wolves, and lynx live in the extensive forest cover of the main summit block. Europe’s largest feline mainly prefers rocky, rugged terrains, while the brown bear mainly roams flatter, sometimes open areas rich in 'forest fruits' — its meals are shared with extremely rare capercaillie birds seeking undisturbed places. As signs request, do not leave the marked hiking trail, and avoid wandering deep in the forest after dark or before sunrise to prevent bear encounters and animal disturbance. Of course, the rocky outcrops and dense forests also provide shelter to important birds of prey: for example, the golden eagle lives in the mountains.

After a short wooded section, the path reveals the summits of the Small (Malý Choč) and Great Kócs (Veľký Choč) at the Žimerová saddle. The distance has significantly decreased since the last glance, but the two spires still proudly stand high. We overcome the remaining elevation difference in two stages: first, we climb serpentine up to the saddle between the summits, then cut straight and directly through the dwarf pines surrounding the ridge. We descend through old spruce-beech forests on a slightly ascending service road, later on a leveling transverse path touching a spring, reaching the base of the saddle where wind-damaged forest can be seen. Thus, for the first time, we get a broader view before again ascending a muddy climb equipped with chains into the forest. A steep, winding path leads to the foot of the ridge of Malý Choč ('Little Kócs'), from where the panorama opens somewhat low toward the Liptov Mountains and behind them to the Tatras region and the Liptov Basin framed by the Low Tatras on its southern side (with the mirror-like Szentmária reservoir (Liptovská Mara) in the middle).

Panorama from the heart of the Northwestern Carpathians

The path here, secured with chains but not very technical, leads through a rocky gate with considerable steps to the saddle separating the two summits. The view opening from the clearing is pure Carpathian romance: the Great Fatra rolls endlessly like a mountainous sea among pines. Ascending, the landscape takes on a high mountain character, the spruce forest gradually gives way to dwarf pines, which repeatedly poke their heads from the soil among dolomite rocks of Kócs-havas (looking back, the rock face of Malý Choč dominates the view). On the tiringly steep trail, we encounter points with chains and grips before reaching the side terrace of Kócs-havas (Veľký Choč). Standing directly above dizzying depths of 400-500 meters, we can overlook the path taken and the entire structure of the mountains, while from the 1608 m summit point, the gaze can soar over a huge segment of Slovakia, as if standing above the whole country — so wide and substantial is the panorama.

All the high mountain ranges of the Northwestern Carpathians can be seen: clouds gather over the Liptov Mountains to the east, behind which the Kriván massif of the High Tatras emerges; to the south, the silhouette of Gyömbér peak appears from the mass of the Low Tatras. Looking east, the busiest scene shows the dense mountains of Great Fatra, next to which arches the grassy ridge of Little Fatra, and the rocky crown of Great Rozsutec is also noteworthy. Looking north, the regular cone of Babia Hora dominates the softer hills of the Beskids. The lengthy list of notable points is helped by a metal disc with directions and inscriptions. The summit itself is formed from dolomite, which remains patchy on the limestone mantle that spreads lower down.

In the forest stretching below, extensive clearcuts and strips harvested in narrow bands with comb-like cuts stand out. These latter traces, known as jump-strip logging, are frequently encountered in Slovakia: partly or entirely based on natural forest regeneration, the width of the cut strip must not exceed the height of the trees to enable seeds to cover the entire surface. Compared to classic clearcutting, the remaining forest's climate changes less, the habitat does not completely disappear, and as one strip grows, the previously left one is cut — thus the overall stand becomes more structurally varied than on a fully clearcut plot. Looking eastward, we see that single-species spruce forests in the Kócs Mountains are mostly replaced by more resistant and higher biodiversity mixed forests. However, the higher terrain on the western side is protected by a reserve, where no signs of logging are detectable.

The wilder side of Kócs

The summit's strict ridges are made of dolomite, which remains patchy on the limestone mantle below. Descending from here, we pass through dwarf pines: from this point, we follow the Z marking, but in winter and snowy weather, the high pole-marked P route ('Zimná trasa') must be chosen, which follows the descending ridge secured with chains. (And from the pine forest, replaced by fir woods, it offers a magnificent view of peaks near Little Fatra. Below, among the firs, the black marking branches off left, joining the summer route described.) Some sections can be inconveniently rocky and slippery after rain, opening many views to the ranges of Great Fatra lined one behind the other. Gradually, the forest again swallows the panorama — but it soon lets go when we reach a meadow. The huge, pine-dotted clearing of Stredná Poľana ('Middle Meadow') is located on a plateau where ridges meet; on its northeastern side, a wild romantic view of the rugged, pine-covered rocky arc of Kócs-havas can be admired.

This is a picturesque point of the tour and also offers a nomadic accommodation option fitting the location: the former shepherd's quarters, famously known as Hotel Choč, serve as an authentic overnight place (the clearing formed thanks to the logging of forests alongside former mountain shepherding). Inside, rooms wallpapered with carpets and well insulated for the conditions hide bunks, but it is also possible to sleep in the attic. Not far from here, to the south, there is another clearing where from 1924 stood the Hviezdoslav shelter (named after the Slovak writer-poet born nearby), until German soldiers fighting partisans destroyed it in 1944. No new tourist huts have been built since, so the rustic timber hut remains very popular.

From here, the K marking shows the way in the closing forest (coming from the summit on the right). A steeply descending, rocky, root-trampled path leads down through initially creekless but still moist soil ditches. The forest is much lusher than on the eastern side; the dense spruce weave is pierced only lower down by a few imposing rocky spurs. At the base of the robust, rugged cliff walls, thick debris tongues 'lick' the edges of the path. Not much is left now, and as the valley widens, beside a spring, we find a covered resting place and, further left, another shelter equipped with a fire pit. Here, we walk on a meadow, and opposite, the village houses appear. Soon, we reach the street of Valaská Dubová — the Hungarian name Oláhdubova refers to its founders: Romanian shepherds arriving from the Balkans. A notable feature is the lower tavern (also a restaurant), welcoming guests with an atmospheric bandit decoration since local legend has it that the famous Slovak outlaw leader Juraj Jánošík was captured in the village inn. The hike is worth celebrating with a meal as buses from Ružomberok (Rózsahegy) and Dolný Kubín often arrive, so there is no rush, and the restaurant also offers accommodation.