Großglockner via Meletzkigrat from the Franz-Josefs-Höhe
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
The route should only be undertaken in stable weather and dry conditions. In case of snow and ice, it takes significantly longer and is much more serious.Tips and suggestions
Information leaflet in 4 languages:http://www.alpenverein.at/portal/natur-umwelt/nationalpark_hohe_tauern/glocknerrunde/sicher_aufs_dach_glockner.php
Roadbook
From the car park along the funicular down to the ever-shrinking Pasterze. Large signs are set up along the Pasterze in summer, indicating the way to the marked hiking trail below the Meletzkigrat. In poor visibility, orientation becomes challenging in the moraine terrain at the glacier edge. Follow the marked hiking trail (difficult mountain path) uphill to the distinctive breakfast spot (flat area, large cairn). From here, do not cross to the Hofmannkees, but follow the ridge directly - past a red marker pole. From now on, the route follows the ridge continuously, sometimes slightly to the left, sometimes to the right, in a logical route guidance uphill. Occasionally, there are bolt hooks and steel rods; with slings, the ridge itself can be well secured. The climbing difficulties are up to a maximum of II+ UIAA. The exit then takes place either on firn or bare ice just below the Glocknerleitl. Fit mountaineers can now climb directly to the summit; we preferred to spend the night at the Adlersruhe.
Early the next morning, it goes from the Adlersruhe over the Glocknerleitl (up to 40° steep ridge, caution on bare ice) to the notch below the Kleinglockner and then through easy rocky terrain past steel rods to the Kleinglockner. From there, quite exposed down into the Glocknerscharte and then over a rock step up to the summit. The descent to the Adlersruhe (Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte) is the same as the ascent. From there, it is better not to go over the Meletzkigrat, but back via the route of the first climbers (Salmhütte) to the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, where a tedious final ascent awaits.
Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Hohenwartscharte 3183m
Salm-Hütte
Stockerscharte
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
From the north: by train to Zell am See and then by bus to the Großglockner High Alpine Road. In summer, there is a shuttle bus to the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe.From the south: by train to Lienz or Spital an der Drau, then by bus to Heiligenblut and from there also by shuttle bus to the Franz-Josefs-Höhe.
Directions
From the north: either via Zell am See or Sankt Johann im Pongau to Bruck an der Großglockner Road and then over the toll road through the Hochtor to the Franz-Josefs-Höhe.From the south: via Lienz or Spital an der Drau to Heiligenblut and then also over the toll road to the car park.
Parking
Large car park at the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, parking fees are already covered with the toll road.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
High alpine equipment including climbing harness, crampons with anti-stoll plates (and suitable mountaineering boots!), ice axe, ice screws, accessory cord, slings, belay material and emergency equipment (first aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack).Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions