Hike on the route of the Tsarist troops, in the comfortable gorge of Kvacsány valley

Itinerary

• From the edge of Kvačany (Kvacsány), follow the P trail from the parking lot to the Oblazy junction, making a short detour to the two viewpoints along the way.
• From the Oblazy junction, follow the K trail to the Dolina Borovianky sign, then return to the Oblazy junction.
• Back again use the P trail on the already familiar section, all the way back to the parking lot.

Detailed description of the route

Comfortably above the gorge

Starting from the upper end of Kvačany (Kvacsány), from the parking lot located at the entrance of the valley, directly at the foot of the mountains, we follow the P trail. The little-known Choč Mountains (Chočské vrchy) in our country are arranged in a regular strip as a continuation of the Liptov Tatras, on the edge of the Liptov basin stretching between high mountain ranges. Although its limestone mountains (except for the main peak) barely exceed an altitude of 1,000 meters, the gorge valleys cutting perpendicularly into the range create the impression of a significant mountainous area. These valleys drain surface waters from the higher terrain of Upper Liptov, cutting spectacular limestone gorges with impressive cliff walls.

The Kvačianka stream opens the way deep into the mountains, although the wide gravel road soon leaves the bed. The valley allowed the population living on the other side of the range to cross into the Liptov basin, so there has been a path here for a long time, but horse traffic only began in the mid-19th century when Tsarist troops marching to help the Austrian Emperor during the 1848-49 revolution passed here. At that time, the road leading through the valley was widened, later further broken up by locals to allow wagon traffic and, from the 1960s, car traffic through the valley. Attempts were made to route the road along the valley floor, but due to unstable layering and dangerous terrain, this alignment was quickly abandoned. Immediately at the entrance to the gorge, information boards show old photos illustrating the road widening process.

In the lower section of the valley, the tourist path narrows the most, but the limestone gorge forest with its stony, fragmentary ground provides solid footing in the narrow gorge. Since we stay on the left bank of the stream throughout, there is no need to cross it, and we can also get a glimpse into the valley from higher ground, made possible twice by viewing terraces built on ledges above the foliage. The forest remains impressive all along, as the native tree species—spruce, fir, and silver fir—have survived in the hard-to-access rocky gorge, with beech predominant among the deciduous trees alongside mountain maple, ash, willow, and rowan present.

After the narrowing, the road rises steeply, and it’s worth watching our steps as the path cuts along bare rock surfaces. Until now the trail was gently winding, here it quickly climbs over 100 meters in altitude, but before we get too far, a viewpoint offers a chance to rest and look around. Directly next to the path, a trail leads to a rocky cliff towering above the stream, fitted with a metal-grated walkway and railing viewing terrace, allowing us to lean out safely and look down into the drop. The perspective is quite surreal: the stream roars beneath our feet, carving its bed in a channel between cliff walls. The valley floor glows white nearly 50 meters below us, the water rushing loudly among rounded limestone blocks and pebbles. From here, we see that we are bypassing the truly wild part of the gorge, and for better passability, we must continue along the mountainside.

The path cleverly weaves around the rocks, climbing by using gentler slopes. At one point, we pass through a rocky narrowing, curving widely around a side valley to get behind the Roháč rock outcrop. Here, blasting and manual work carved through the rocky hillside to divert the road around the limestone tower. From the path near the Roháč rock tower, we can look into the deeply incised valley and steep, forested mountain slopes around. Now we are well above the stream, the forest’s colorful canopy protectively envelops the varied terrain. In several places, exposed rock walls highlight the valley’s interior, steep, and inaccessible opposite side.

Mill museum deep in the Carpathian forest

After Roháč, the trail barely ascends and, keeping elevation, arrives at the Oblazy junction, from where a steep path descends. Following the K trail (to the left), we proceed because down below we cross the valley where three rivers join, and the mills of three villages behind the mountain range stand open to the public with period-accurate equipment. At the height of their heyday in the early 20th century, there was also a grain mill and sawmill operating here, later production was banned, but for a while, it continued secretly. Enthusiastic volunteers saved the disused buildings from certain destruction, and the lower mill structure and water-power machinery, restored at the end of the 20th century, can still be seen in operation. There used to be a popular inn further up the valley, but our route now bypasses this location. (Alternatively, on the way back we can also view the upper course of the Kvačianka stream by following the P trail. The wide promenade winds right beside the stream, between cliffs.)

Signposts lead to the lower mill; the K trail only cuts through the valley and then follows the Borovianka stream to the village of Veľké Borové (Nagyborove). The rushing water opens a path from the rocky mountain center to the upland meadows, and along the way, it also forms waterfalls carved into mossy rocks. Here the trail becomes gentler; the surrounding mountain landscape softens, and we noticeably leave the gorge behind.

The return

Our tour turns back at the end of the canyon, at the sign marking Dolina Borovianky (Borovianka valley), where upland meadows replace the dense gorge forest. If time and mood allow, we can still visit the typically Liptov-style village of Veľké Borové (Nagyborove), located only a few hundred meters away. Along the road cutting through the meadow, houses soon appear, and resting at the Bufet Gorál at the summit, we can enjoy local food and drinks on the terrace. If the buffet is open, it’s worth making a short 15-minute detour to the building. A few typical Slovak timber houses can also be seen at the southern end of the village, and we can even extend the tour by taking a bus to the beginning of the neighboring Huty (Hutti). This way, we can also explore the upper section of the Kvacsány valley before descending back to our starting point.