The Salt Roads: The Pagarine Route
The Franco-Italian hiking route "la route pagarine" connects Nice to Cuneo in 10 stages, passing through the Vésubie valley, the Mercantour National Park, and the Alpi Marittime park.
It is based on the historical salt roads and invites you to discover the countless treasures of the territory at the heart of magnificent landscapes between the Alps and the Mediterranean.
The Salt Roads project is the result of a successful cross-border cooperation between territorial authorities, natural parks, and chambers of commerce from the Alpes-Maritimes, Piedmont, and Liguria.
Somewhere between a hiking guide and a novel, the three-volume collection allows one to discover this historical period in a playful way, both faithful and fictional.
Through this original format, the Franco-Italian partners wanted to offer a different perspective on the strong historical and cultural ties that unite this territory thanks to passionate historians' support.
Hiking these three routes provides an opportunity to discover the countless treasures of the area within magnificent landscapes between the Alps and the Mediterranean. Volume 1, from Nice to Cuneo, follows the footsteps of our fictional hero, Artemio, on the ancient Pagarine route. It is available for download.
This project is funded by the ALPIMED PATRIM project under the INTERREG ALCOTRA program.
Author’s recommendation
The novel-guide created for this route is part of a three-volume collection on the theme of the Salt Roads:
The Pagarine route from Nice to Cuneo
The Royal route from Menton to Cuneo
The Smugglers' route from Imperia to Mondovì
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
- Before departure:
- Check the local weather before leaving
- Inform a close relative about your walk goal and departure time
- Verify that the length, elevation gain of the route, and time required match your skill level before setting off and do not overestimate your abilities
- During your hike:
- Follow marked paths and respect the direction of routes
- Trails are shared: mountain bikers, horse riders, and hunters may also use your route
- You may meet flocks of sheep grazing. Protection dogs are there to guard them from any aggression. The golden rule: stop and keep your distance from the flock. Take your time to calmly go around it.
- Be extra cautious during hunting season and check for ongoing drives.
- Act eco-responsibly: take your waste with you, be discreet so as not to scare wild animals, and do not pick wild flowers or plants; a photo is a sufficient souvenir
- Respect private property, cultivated areas, and natural spaces, and close gates after passing
- During summer, days are hot, and vegetation is highly sensitive to fire risk. Do not light fires; you endanger your safety and that of others
- To alert emergency services, dial 112
Tips and suggestions
Recommended accommodations and restaurants are listed for each stage.
In France:
- Accommodations on: https://www.explorenicecotedazur.com/preparer/hebergements/
- Specialty Niçoise Restaurants: https://www.explorenicecotedazur.com/preparer/restaurants/cuisine-nissarde/
On the Italian side: https://www.visitcuneese.it
Roadbook
Follow the markings on the posts with the "Route du sel" logo in pink color.
Les Ponchettes
Ancienne Gabelle
Dal Pozzo House
Palais Lascaris
Our Lady of Salettes
Vésubie gorges
Cros d'Utelle bridge
Remains of the salt road
Sanctuaire de la Madone-D'Utelle
Roquebillière-le-Vieux
St. Anne's Gate
Gubernatis Palace
The Beal
Chapel of the Madonna of Fenestre
Cime du Gélas (3143 m)
The fountains of Entracque
Bolleris Castle and Gate
Via Roma
Dal Pozzo House and gabelle plaque
Hôtel La Vigneraie
Gîte d'Etape d'Utelle
Hôtel Le Saint-Sébastien
Village Vacances Les Portes du Mercantour
Camping les Templiers
Hôtel Le Chalet
Hôtel Relais Saint-Louis
Hôtel La Châtaigneraie
Hôtel La Bonne Auberge
Camping à la ferme St Joseph
Pure Montagne Resort & Spa****
Le chalet Jean-Paul II -Sanctuaire de la Madonne des Fenestres
Camping Les Merveilles
Auberge du Bon Puits
Mon gîte à Pélasque
Restaurant Le Tchitchou
Restaurant Lu Fran Calin
Restaurant Acchiardo
Restaurant Chez Cane
Restaurant Lou Balico
Restaurant Chez Davia
Restaurant La Ratapignata
Restaurant l'Escalinada
Restaurant La Table Alziari
Restaurant A Buteghinn'a
Restaurant La Gaité Nallino
Brasserie Tabac Jeux : Le Saint-Claude
Restaurant Le Bellevue - Martinon
Le St Mart'
La Cave
Lou Pitchoun
Les Pirates
La Treille
La Brasserie des Alpes
La Bonne Auberge
Le Safari
Terra Nissa
Chez Thérésa
Lou Pelandroun
Auberge de l'Aire Saint Michel
D'AQUÌ
Chez Marie Thé | Socca & spécialités niçoises
Snack l’Embegu
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Fontaine
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
- The city center of Nice is easily accessible by plane from Nice Côte d’Azur International Airport, by train from Nice-Ville station, or by tramway. Public transport within the Nice Côte d’Azur Metropolis is served by the Lignes d’Azur network. For more information, visit: www.lignesdazur.com.
- Return to Nice can be made by train then TER with a transfer at Breil sur Roya or Ventimiglia. More information at: www.thetrainline.com and www.sncf-connect.com.
Get Timetable to destination
Directions
- By train on the Grasse-Cannes-Nice-Ventimiglia line. Connection from Nice Côte d'Azur Airport to Nice Saint-Augustin railway station.
- By plane Nice Côte d'Azur Airport connected to buses, trains (Nice Saint-Augustin station), and tramway (line 2).
- The city center of Nice is easily accessible by car from the A8 highway.
Think of carpooling!
Parking
- Many paid underground parking lots are distributed around the center of Nice.
- It is also possible to park in parking spaces on the streets of Nice.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Novel-style hiking guide - Volume 2 "The Salt Roads: The Royal Route"
Novel-style hiking guide - Volume 3 "The Salt Roads: The Smugglers' Route"
Author’s map recommendations
IGN25
- 3742OT - NICE MENTON
- 3741ET - BÉVÉRA AND PAILLONS VALLEYS
- 3741OT - VÉSUBIE VALLEY
Fraternali editore
- 14 - VALLE GRANA, LOWER STURA DI DEMONTE VALLEY
- 15 - VALLE GESSO, NATURAL PARK OF THE ALPI MARITTIME
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
- Suitable walking shoes are highly recommended
- Bring water, a cap, provisions, a waterproof and warm garment
- A flashlight or headlamp in case of tunnel passages or to avoid being caught out by nightfall
- A first aid kit
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Weather at the starting point
Statistics
From the shores of the Mediterranean, stroll through Old Nice, discover the local history and gastronomy before embarking on an adventure on the ...
Clear Mediterranean landscapes to the narrow gorges of the Vésubie.
From the wild and rocky corniche overlooking the Vésubie to the village of Utelle.
Along the Vésubie to Lantosque then the confluence with the Gordolasque valley.
From the aptly named Belvédère heading north towards the summits of the Mercantour.
Magnificent panoramas at over 2000 m altitude, from the summit of La Palu to the Férisson pass.
Across the alpine mineral landscape, between France and Italy in the heart of the Maritime-Mercantour European Park.
From green pastures to centuries-old forests heading towards Entracque.
Along the Gesso river, between agricultural plains, chestnut forests, and authentic villages.
At the foot of the Alps, Cuneo and its famous arcades are the last stage of our journey.

User Questions
Unanswered