CRAGS AND SPORT CLIMBING

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport; those who engage in it do so at their own risk. All information in this guide has been updated according to information available at the time, but should be assessed and verified on site and by experienced people before embarking on a climb.

THE HISTORY
It all started in 1984, when a group of friends, Renzo Marianelli, Paolo Pieralisi and Michele Gagliardi began to look at these places with different eyes and to interpret the language of the rock faces as many lines to be climbed vertically.
They thus began to 'spittare' the walls of Pioraco, making the first pitches in the area of the sports field. In the 1990s, Enrico Porcarelli, Roberto Fantozzi, Gianluca Boldrini, Marco Pieroni and others joined the work of equipping the cliffs, and the number of routes and sectors in the area multiplied.
Today, there are five equipped sectors for a total of 95 routes:
The "Placca della Cartiera" (with 15 routes from 6a+ to 7c), the "Placca del Lago" (with 22 routes from 5b to 7b+), the "Placca di Dajee" (with 20 pitches from 4c to 8a+), the "Scoglio del Paradiso" (with 23 pitches from 5c to 8a+), the "Anfiteatro" (with 4 routes from6c to 8a), and the last sector completed in 2012 and not yet present in the guidebook "Calcare di Marca" (Edizioni Versante Sud) and named "Malpasso" (with 13 routes from 6b to 7c+). The Pioraco crags lend themselves above all to mid-season and summer climbing. The prevailing exposure of the walls in fact ranges from south to west and east. For the time being, there are still no northern exposures, which are excellent for summer frequentation, but given the presence of many walls on this side of the Pioraco gorges, it is not excluded that some new sectors will be created in the near future. The rock is a beautiful worked solid limestone and technical routes in leaning or vertical slabs prevail, but there is no lack of slightly
continuity overhangs. It is thanks to the tireless work of searching for new sectors that the crag called 'Valle Scurosa' was discovered by Enrico Porcarelli and Roberto Fantozzi, in the territory of the municipality of Sefro in the direction of Montelago. The participation of Claudio Fantozzi, Matteo Storari, Ezio Principi and others in this visionary project allowed the development of this crag, which can also be climbed in the winter season due to its exposure. There are currently around 28 routes at Sefro, with difficulties ranging from 5c to 8a and others with difficulties to be confirmed. The crag is constantly evolving and there is still much potential to be expressed.

I GUFI VERDI: Pioraco Sport Climbing Association
In 2010, the "Gufi Verdi" Sports Climbing Association was founded by Renzo Marianelli Gianluca Boldrini, Luigi Cambio, Tiziano Tamagnini, Alessio Scarlattini, William Loi Stefano ""Steven" Viti and Lorenzo Dignani. The group immediately began with the meritorious work of securing and maintaining the historic routes, but with an eye on new sectors and itineraries to be bolted, given the area's considerable unexpressed potential. And so it was that Alessio Scarlattini and Tiziano Tamagnini of the group began to equip the new 'Malpasso' sector, which can be climbed in both summer and winter, given its particular exposure. Certainly, the work of this association will not end here, and already the 'Gufi Verdi' are sharpening the tips of their drills to give us new itineraries and continue the work begun back in 1984.

Collection created by

Maria Pia Melonari

updated on: October 18, 2023