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Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
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Pioraco Cliffs AccessPhoto: Staff Outdoor Consorzio Alta Valle Potenza e Scarzito, Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
The Pioraco Cliffs are mainly located near the Paper Mill indicated by the road signs. The new sector “Malpasso” can be reached from Pioraco by following the road to Sefro, then turning right about a hundred meters from the junction, immediately after the first curve.
MALPASSO:
Sport Climbing (13 Routes)
Rock Type > Sedimentary (Limestone)
Windy
No. 75 > Spirit of condensation > Grade 6b+ > 12 meters
No. 76 > Active carbons > Grade 6b > 12 meters
No. 77 > Dry Theory > Grade 6b+ > 15 meters
No. 78 > Soledad > Grade 6b > 15 meters
No. 79 > Nazzareno against > Grade 6c > 18 meters
No. 80 > Seville sawyer (null takes everything) > Grade 7a+ > 20 meters
No. 81 > God forgives Malpasso no > Grade 6b+ > 16 meters
No. 82 > More Pilu > Grade 7a > 20 meters
No. 83 > And here I command > Grade 6b+ > 20 meters
No. 84 > The broom > Grade 7c+ > 30 meters
No. 85 > The small hut > Grade 7a > 10 meters
No. 86 > Green Owls > Grade 6c+ > 30 meters
No. 87 > Ride horse the grass grows > Grade 6b > 25 meters
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Large selection of sectors located close to each other along the north side of the suggestive gorge of Pioraco. The south exposure would make it a winter crag, but in that season the walls remain in shadow. However, the wind funneled into the gorge makes it possible to climb there in summer. The rock is very beautiful and the prevailing style is technical slab climbing.
Roadbook
Arriving at Pioraco, follow the signs to Sefro. Just after the climb, immediately after the turn, turn right leaving the provincial road. After 10 meters turn left. Continue until you pass a small bridge on the right and find yourself in front of a series of garages under the mountain. Continue to the left until the end of the lane and park so that the car does not cause inconvenience. On foot continue along the path that runs alongside the river until after a few hundred meters you reach a scree slope on the right. Leave the path and climb the scree, then find the path trace going up. In a short time you reach the Malpasso cliff.
Public transport
BY TRAIN
From the nearby station of the Municipality of Castelraimondo, about 6 km from the Area (Civitanova Marche-Fabriano railway line).
BY BUS AND TAXI
By bus and taxi with daily connections from the railway station and the nearby towns of Camerino and Castelraimondo.
BY PLANE
Ancona-Falconara Airport "Raffaello Sanzio": www.ancona-airport.com.
The "Raffaello Sanzio" Airport is the only international airport in the Marche region. It is strategically located in the center of Italy (200 km southeast of Bologna and 210 km north of Rome) and directly connected to the highways to Rome, Milan, and Bari. It is 18 km from the city center of Ancona, in Castelferretti in the Municipality of
Falconara Marittima.
From the airport by bus service
Buses depart every 30 minutes from the airport, and the stop is close to the exit from the passenger terminal. The bus line connects the Airport with Ancona Railway Station.
From the airport by bus service
The Airport is connected by a direct train service departing from Castelferretti Station and arriving at
Ancona Railway Station.
Attention: check schedules online.
Trains: www.trenitalia.com
Coaches: www.contram.it/orario.asp
Directions
BY CAR
You can reach either from the Marche side, passing through Castelraimondo or Camerino, or from Nocera Umbra coming from the Umbria side.
From the North: A14 highway (Bologna-Taranto) Ancona Nord exit; from here take the expressway to Rome, the S.S. 76 Val D'Esino up to the Albacina exit, direction Matelica-Castelraimondo-Camerino up to the junction for Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata 1 km after Castelraimondo;
From the South: A14 highway (Bologna-Taranto) Civitanova Marche (Macerata) exit;
from here take the S.S. 77 Val di Chienti expressway up to the Camerino exit, direction Castelraimondo and then Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata;
From Rome: A1 highway northbound, Orte-Terni exit, take the road towards Foligno, then Nocera Umbra and the Cornello pass, regional border, along the former S.S.361 Settempedana, now S.P.361, which from the Adriatic coast connects the Macerata territory with Umbria and crosses the Area from east to west, passing through the Municipalities of Fiuminata and Pioraco.
Parking
Arriving at Pioraco, follow the signs to Sefro. Just after the climb, immediately after the turn, turn right leaving the provincial road. After 10 meters turn left. Continue until you pass a small bridge on the right and find yourself in front of a series of garages under the mountain. Continue to the left until the end of the lane and park so that the car does not cause inconvenience.
Coordinates
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions