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Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
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Pioraco Cliffs AccessPhoto: Staff Outdoor Consorzio Alta Valle Potenza e Scarzito, Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
The Pioraco Cliffs are mainly located near the Paper Mill indicated by the road signs. The new sector “Malpasso” can be reached from Pioraco by following the road towards Sefro and turning right about one hundred meters from the intersection, immediately after the first curve.
PLACCA DEL LAGO:
Sport Climbing (22 Routes)
Type of Rock > Sedimentary (Limestone)
Windy
No. 14 > Outside the Tunnel > Grade 7b+ > Height 9 meters
No. 15 > Micromad > Grade 6b > Height 7 meters
No. 16 > Salerno-Reggio Calabria (L1) > Grade 6a+ > Height 20 meters
No. 16-a > Salerno-Reggio Calabria (L2) > Grade 5c > Height 20 meters
No. 17 > Flying Cash (L1) > Grade 6a+ > Height 20 meters
No. 17-a > Flying Cash (L2) > Grade 5c+ > Height 20 meters
No. 18 > A14 (L1) > Grade 5b > Height 25 meters
No. 18-a > A14 (L2) > Grade 6a > Height 15 meters
No. 19 > Rich prizes and cotajoli (L1) > Grade 5c > Height 20 meters
No. 19-a > Rich prizes and cotajoli (L2) > Grade 6a > Height 20 meters
No. 20 > Towards the Moon (L1) > Grade 5b > Height 20 meters
No. 20-a > Towards the Moon (L2) > Grade 5c > Height 15 meters
No. 21 > For you (L1) > Grade 6a > Height 20 meters
No. 21-a > For you (L2) > Grade 6a > Height 15 meters
No. 22 > Rewiluì > Grade 6a+ > Height 20 meters
No. 23 > Fellini > Grade 6b+ > Height 33 meters
No. 24 > Unknown > Grade 7a+ > Height 33 meters
No. 25 > Bumba > Grade 7b+ > Height 30 meters
No. 26 > Free Barabba > Grade 6c+ > Height 30 meters
No. 27 > Nameless > Project > Height 30 meters
No. 28 > Little Fingers > Grade 6c+ > Height 30 meters
No. 29 > Screams from Infinity > Grade 7a+ > Height 35 meters
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Wide selection of sectors located a short distance from each other along the north side of the evocative Pioraco gorge. The south exposure would make it a winter cliff, but in that season the walls remain in the shade. However, the wind funneled through the gorge allows for summer climbing. The rock is very beautiful and the dominant style is technical slab.
Roadbook
It is possible to park in the small village. After leaving the car, follow westwards the Franciscan Path running alongside the river.
After a few minutes you can notice a scree slope on the right with a trail leading to the base of the wall.
Public transport
BY TRAIN
From the nearby station of the Municipality of Castelraimondo, which is about 6 km from the District (Civitanova Marche-Fabriano railway line).
BY BUS AND TAXI
By bus and taxi with daily connections from the train station and from the nearby towns of Camerino and Castelraimondo.
BY AIR
Ancona-Falconara Airport "Raffaello Sanzio": www.ancona-airport.com.
The "Raffaello Sanzio" Airport is the only international airport in the Marche region. It is strategically located in the center of Italy (200 km southeast of Bologna and 210 km north of Rome) and directly connected to the highways to Rome, Milan, and Bari. It is 18 km from the city center of Ancona, in Castelferretti in the Municipality of
Falconara Marittima.
From the airport by bus service
Buses depart every 30 minutes from the airport, and the stop is near the exit of the passenger terminal. The bus line connects the Airport with the Ancona Railway Station.
From the airport by bus service
The Airport is connected by a direct train service departing from Castelferretti Station and arriving at the
Ancona railway station.
Attention: check the schedules online.
Trains: www.trenitalia.com
Directions
BY CAR
You can reach from either the Marche side, passing through Castelraimondo or Camerino, or from Nocera Umbra coming from the Umbria side.
From the North: A14 highway (Bologna-Taranto) exit Ancona Nord; from here take the express road to Rome, the S.S. 76 of the Esino Valley until the Albacina exit, direction Matelica-Castelraimondo-Camerino until the junction for Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata 1 km after Castelraimondo;
From the South: A14 highway (Bologna-Taranto) exit Civitanova Marche (Macerata);
from here take the superstrada S.S. 77 Val di Chienti until the Camerino exit, direction Castelraimondo and then Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata;
From Rome: A1 highway heading north, exit Orte-Terni, take the road towards Foligno, then Nocera Umbra and the Cornello Pass, regional border, along the former S.S.361 Settempedana, now S.P.361, which connects the Macerata territory with Umbria from east to west, crossing the District, passing through the Municipalities of Fiuminata and Pioraco.
Coordinates
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions