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Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
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Pioraco Cliffs AccessPhoto: Staff Outdoor Consorzio Alta Valle Potenza e Scarzito, Consorzio Alta Valle del Potenza e Scarzito
The Pioraco Cliffs are mainly located near the Paper Mill indicated by road signs. The new "Malpasso" sector can be reached from Pioraco by following the road towards Sefro then turning right about a hundred meters after the junction, just after the first curve.
DAJEE SLAB:
Sport Climbing (205 Routes)
Rock Type > Sedimentary (Limestone)
Windy
No. 34 > No name > Grade 4c > 20 meters
No. 35 > No name > Grade 5c > 20 meters
No. 36 > No name > Grade 5c > 20 meters
No. 37 > La Classica > Grade 5a > 25 meters
No. 38 > Piano Piano > Grade 5c > 35 meters
No. 39 > Bungee Jumping > Grade 7a+ > 25 meters
No. 40 > Grenn > Grade 6a > 35 meters
No. 41 > Vola Viper > Grade 6a > 18 meters
No. 42 > Pisellino (L1) > Grade 6b > 25 meters
No. 42-a > Pisellino (L2) > Grade 6b+ > 20 meters
No. 43 > Popeye isn't here > Grade 6c+ > 25 meters
No. 44 > Olivia neither > Grade 7a+ > 24 meters
No. 45 > Butterflies > Grade 7c > 30 meters
No. 46 > Egoist > Grade 8a > 28 meters
No. 47 > Lovable > Project > 28 meters
No. 48 > Satiriasi > Grade 8a+ > 28 meters
No. 49 > Dajee (L1) > Grade 7a+ > 22 meters
No. 49-a > Dajee (L2) > Grade 6b+ > 18 meters
No. 50 > Aridaje > Grade 6c+ > 30 meters
No. 51 > Shadow > Grade 6b+ > 25 meters
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Wide selection of sectors located close to each other along the north side of the picturesque Pioraco gorge. The south exposure would make it a winter climbing spot, but in that season the walls stay in the shade. However, the wind channeled through the gorge makes it possible to visit in summer. The rock is very beautiful, and the dominant style is technical slab.
Roadbook
It is possible to park in the small village. After leaving the car, follow the Franciscan Path westward along the river.
After a few minutes, you can notice a scree on the right with a trail leading up to the base of the wall.
Public transport
BY TRAIN
From the nearby station of the Municipality of Castelraimondo, which is about 6 km from the Resort (Civitanova Marche-Fabriano railway line).
BY BUS AND TAXI
By bus and taxi with daily connections from the railway station and the nearby towns of Camerino and Castelraimondo.
BY AIR
Ancona-Falconara Airport "Raffaello Sanzio": www.ancona-airport.com.
The "Raffaello Sanzio" Airport is the only international airport in the Marche region. It is strategically located in the center of Italy (200 km southeast of Bologna and 210 km north of Rome) and directly connected to the highways to Rome, Milan, and Bari. It is 18 km from the city center of Ancona, in Castelferretti in the Municipality of
Falconara Marittima.
From the airport by bus service
Buses depart every 30 minutes from the airport, and the stop is near the exit of the passenger terminal. The bus line connects the Airport with the Ancona Railway Station.
From the airport by bus service
The Airport is connected by a direct train service departing from Castelferretti Station and arriving at
the Ancona railway station.
Attention: check online for schedules.
Trains: www.trenitalia.com
Directions
BY CAR
You can arrive either from the Marche side, passing through Castelraimondo or Camerino, or from Nocera Umbra coming from the Umbria side.
From the North: A14 motorway (Bologna-Taranto) exit Ancona Nord; from here follow the expressway to Rome, the S.S. 76 of the Esino Valley until the Albacina exit, direction Matelica-Castelraimondo-Camerino until the junction for Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata 1 km after Castelraimondo;
From the South: A14 motorway (Bologna-Taranto) exit Civitanova Marche (Macerata);
from here take the S.S. 77 Val di Chienti expressway until the Camerino exit, direction Castelraimondo and then Pioraco-Sefro-Fiuminata;
From Rome: A1 motorway heading north, exit Orte-Terni, take the road towards Foligno, then Nocera Umbra and the Cornello pass, regional border, along the former S.S.361 Settempedana, now S.P.361, which connects the Macerata area with Umbria from the Adriatic coast and crosses the Resort from east to west, passing through the Municipalities of Fiuminata and Pioraco.
Parking
Borough of Pioraco or near the Paper Mill
Coordinates
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions