MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
Crag
· Donau-Niederösterreich
-
Photo: theCrag
German:
Der Klettergarten Dürnstein ist das am längsten erschlossene Gebiet in der Wachau. Es bieten sich hier unzählige Möglichkeiten für Einsteiger im Klettersport (vor allem im Bereich des östlichen Dürnsteiner Grates), jedoch natürlich auch für geuebte Kletterer (hier ist vor allem der Däumling zu empfehlen).
English:
Besides all the beauty, the wine, the danube etc. etc. the region around Dürnstein offers some first class Gneiss climbing, known to mountaineers and climbers since the beginning of the 20th century. Those were and will be described in numerous publications before and after the following selection of the (in my opinion) finest climbs a danube valley can offer.
Beneath the famous ruin of Dürnstein climbing has a long tradition and therefore the crag is the oldest and most traditional climbing spot in the Wachau. All kinds of different, tendentially shorter, climbs are offered here, ranging from easy slabs to harder steep routes (found particularly on the Däumling). In the following most relevant crags within the area are described, covering not all but most climbing possibilities in Dürnstein.
The exposure of the crags differs but most of them are pretty sunny and can get hot during summer.
The small town of Dürnstein itself is charming and pretty, but can be very touristy and full of people in high season. There are a lot of places to eat ('Heuriger') and lodge, so you won't stay hungry after a nice and long climbing day.
Gear: 40-70m Rope / 10-12 Slings / Helmet
Exposure: All (tendentially South and West)
Character: Slab, Steep and Overhanging
Der Klettergarten Dürnstein ist das am längsten erschlossene Gebiet in der Wachau. Es bieten sich hier unzählige Möglichkeiten für Einsteiger im Klettersport (vor allem im Bereich des östlichen Dürnsteiner Grates), jedoch natürlich auch für geuebte Kletterer (hier ist vor allem der Däumling zu empfehlen).
English:
Besides all the beauty, the wine, the danube etc. etc. the region around Dürnstein offers some first class Gneiss climbing, known to mountaineers and climbers since the beginning of the 20th century. Those were and will be described in numerous publications before and after the following selection of the (in my opinion) finest climbs a danube valley can offer.
Beneath the famous ruin of Dürnstein climbing has a long tradition and therefore the crag is the oldest and most traditional climbing spot in the Wachau. All kinds of different, tendentially shorter, climbs are offered here, ranging from easy slabs to harder steep routes (found particularly on the Däumling). In the following most relevant crags within the area are described, covering not all but most climbing possibilities in Dürnstein.
The exposure of the crags differs but most of them are pretty sunny and can get hot during summer.
The small town of Dürnstein itself is charming and pretty, but can be very touristy and full of people in high season. There are a lot of places to eat ('Heuriger') and lodge, so you won't stay hungry after a nice and long climbing day.
Gear: 40-70m Rope / 10-12 Slings / Helmet
Exposure: All (tendentially South and West)
Character: Slab, Steep and Overhanging
Grades
UIAA
- 1-: 1 route1-: 1 route
- 1: 3 routes1: 3 routes
- 1+: 1 route1+: 1 route
- 2-: 1 route2-: 1 route
- 2: 8 routes2: 8 routes
- 2+: 6 routes2+: 6 routes
- 3-: 3 routes3-: 3 routes
- 3: 14 routes3: 14 routes
- 3+: 12 routes3+: 12 routes
- 4-: 8 routes4-: 8 routes
- 4: 32 routes4: 32 routes
- 4+: 23 routes4+: 23 routes
- 5-: 18 routes5-: 18 routes
- 5: 24 routes5: 24 routes
- 5+: 21 routes5+: 21 routes
- 6-: 13 routes6-: 13 routes
- 6: 29 routes6: 29 routes
- 6+: 15 routes6+: 15 routes
- 7-: 15 routes7-: 15 routes
- 7: 15 routes7: 15 routes
- 7+: 11 routes7+: 11 routes
- 8-: 6 routes8-: 6 routes
- 8: 5 routes8: 5 routes
- 8+: 2 routes8+: 2 routes
- 9-: 2 routes9-: 2 routes
- 9: 1 route9: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 22 ascentsJanuary: 22 ascents
- February: 110 ascentsFebruary: 110 ascents
- March: 245 ascentsMarch: 245 ascents
- April: 627 ascentsApril: 627 ascents
- May: 678 ascentsMay: 678 ascents
- June: 286 ascentsJune: 286 ascents
- July: 237 ascentsJuly: 237 ascents
- August: 258 ascentsAugust: 258 ascents
- September: 250 ascentsSeptember: 250 ascents
- October: 189 ascentsOctober: 189 ascents
- November: 109 ascentsNovember: 109 ascents
- December: 82 ascentsDecember: 82 ascents
Areas (34)
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grades |
Routes |
Ratings |
|---|
|
Vorgelagerte Felsgruppe
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
3
|
|
|
Bettinaturm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Schwarzer Turm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Namenloser Turm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
6
|
|
|
Vergessener Turm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
1
|
|
|
Omas Kegel und Fratzofels
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
3
|
|
|
Spiegel
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
13
|
|
|
Pentagonfels
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
4
|
|
|
Rawazzerfels
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
Hörnliturm und Plattenwandl
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
3
|
|
|
Nilpferdrücken
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
4
|
|
|
Däumling
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
32
|
|
|
Dickkopf
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Steinbruch
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Radiererfels
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Splitterturm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
WZ-Turm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
WZ-Kind
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
3
|
|
|
Ruachlafels
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
8
|
|
|
N-Häutpling
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
14
|
|
|
Donauturm
(Crag)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
8
|
|
|
Großer Adlerfelsen
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Edelweißturm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Narrenstuhl
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
4
|
|
|
Teufelsturm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Teufelszacken
(Crag)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
6
|
|
|
Narrenturm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
14
|
|
|
Denstaudenfelsen
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Hahnenkamm
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
8
|
|
|
Dreifingerspitze
(Crag)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
Gotifelsen
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
13
|
|
|
Turm der Schmächtigen
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Turm der Mächtigen
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
12
|
|
|
Smaragdlerweg
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
19
|
|
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Sport climbing
|
1
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
1-
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
7 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
13 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
10 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
9 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
8 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
8 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
7 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
6 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
9 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
7 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
7 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
15 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
10 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
15 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
20 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
12 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
12 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
18 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
–
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
12 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
7 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9-
|
6 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
6 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
18 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
12 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
25 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
7
|
35 m
|
2
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
6-
|
45 m
|
3
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
18 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
25 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
25 m
|
–
|
10
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
25 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
13 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
8 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
8 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
5
|
40 m
|
2
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
18 m
|
1
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
19 m
|
1
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
17 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
17 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
17 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
12 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
11 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
11 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
11 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
9 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
5 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
9 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
11 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
13 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
12 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
12 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
10 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
10 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
14 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
10 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
15 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
20 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
20 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
20 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
19 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
8 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
13 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
7 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
8 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
7 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
5 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
10 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
20 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
12 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
12 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
11 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
11 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
7 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
7 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
30 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
25 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
30 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
35 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
30 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
30 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
11 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
9 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
9 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
8 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
8 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
7 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
6 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
10 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
12 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
11 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
6 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
6 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
10 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
14 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
7 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
7 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3-
|
6 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
1+
|
6 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
13 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
13 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3-
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
40 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
10 m
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
27 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
4 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
18 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
40 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
18 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
11 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
18 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
20 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
8 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
25 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
15 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
1
|
–
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
15 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
–
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
1
|
–
|
–
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
30 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
25 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2+
|
20 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
–
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
15 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
20 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
20 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
15 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
12 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4-
|
30 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
20 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
20 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
–
|
–
|
0
|
|
Coordinates
DD
48.398484, 15.524111
DMS
48°23'54.5"N 15°31'26.8"E
UTM
33U 538794 5360724
w3w
///loping.lemons.repute
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
German:
Von Krems aus am Donauufer entlang auf der Wachau-Bundesstrasse bis nach Dürnstein. Parkmöglichkeiten bieten sich gebührenpflichtig in Dürnstein oder beim Bahnhof. Vom Bahnhof aus bietet sich auch eine schnelle Zustiegsmöglichkeit zum Klettergarten: Man überschreitet die Gleise (man sieht sofort die ausgetretene Stelle für den Übergang) und folgt dem asphaltierten Weg bis in einen Graben hinein, wo ein natürlicher Pfad weiterfährt. Diesen immer der Nase nach entlang gehen und schon befindet man sich am östlichen Dürnsteinergrat (siehe Topo). Um direkt zum westlichen Grat zu kommen, benutzt man am besten den Wanderweg zur Burgruine. Man kann von beiden Graten gemütlich auf ausgetretenen Pfaden in den Graben (Däumling, etc...) absteigen.
English:
Coming from Krems take the Danube-Bundesstrasse 3 until you reach the town of Dürnstein. You can park before the tunnel on the right or at the railway station for a small fee. For the fastest ascent head towards the Dürnstein railway station and cross the railway (you will see the beaten track immediately). Afterwards follow the small road into the valley upwards for 5 to 10 minutes and you will reach the first climbing spots (Schwarzer Turm). If you want to head directly to the western arete you can use the path going up to the old ruin of Dürnstein.
Von Krems aus am Donauufer entlang auf der Wachau-Bundesstrasse bis nach Dürnstein. Parkmöglichkeiten bieten sich gebührenpflichtig in Dürnstein oder beim Bahnhof. Vom Bahnhof aus bietet sich auch eine schnelle Zustiegsmöglichkeit zum Klettergarten: Man überschreitet die Gleise (man sieht sofort die ausgetretene Stelle für den Übergang) und folgt dem asphaltierten Weg bis in einen Graben hinein, wo ein natürlicher Pfad weiterfährt. Diesen immer der Nase nach entlang gehen und schon befindet man sich am östlichen Dürnsteinergrat (siehe Topo). Um direkt zum westlichen Grat zu kommen, benutzt man am besten den Wanderweg zur Burgruine. Man kann von beiden Graten gemütlich auf ausgetretenen Pfaden in den Graben (Däumling, etc...) absteigen.
English:
Coming from Krems take the Danube-Bundesstrasse 3 until you reach the town of Dürnstein. You can park before the tunnel on the right or at the railway station for a small fee. For the fastest ascent head towards the Dürnstein railway station and cross the railway (you will see the beaten track immediately). Afterwards follow the small road into the valley upwards for 5 to 10 minutes and you will reach the first climbing spots (Schwarzer Turm). If you want to head directly to the western arete you can use the path going up to the old ruin of Dürnstein.
291
Teufelszacken
(Crag)
6
Dreifingerspitze
(Crag)
5
Climbing style
Maps and trails
User Questions