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Cliff Cliff · Wienerwald

Spartastein

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Map / Spartastein
Der Spartastein, ein markanter Turm und linkerhand eine kurze Wand bietet viele mittelschwere Routen. Diese sind entweder bouldrig, kleingriffig, leistig (in der Wand) oder fordern exzellente Plattenklettertechnik am Turm. Letztere werden viel beklettert (und sind daher eher abgespeckt). Routennamen sind teilweise angeschrieben.
Grades
UIAA
  1. 1-: 1 route
    1-: 1 route
  2. 4+: 2 routes
    4+: 2 routes
  3. 5-: 1 route
    5-: 1 route
  4. 5: 1 route
    5: 1 route
  5. 5+: 2 routes
    5+: 2 routes
  6. 6-: 1 route
    6-: 1 route
  7. 6: 2 routes
    6: 2 routes
  8. 6+: 3 routes
    6+: 3 routes
  9. 7-: 4 routes
    7-: 4 routes
  10. 7: 2 routes
    7: 2 routes
  11. 7+: 6 routes
    7+: 6 routes
  12. 8-: 2 routes
    8-: 2 routes
  13. 8: 3 routes
    8: 3 routes
  14. 9-: 2 routes
    9-: 2 routes
  15. 9: 1 route
    9: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 0 ascents
    January: 0 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 0 ascents
    March: 0 ascents
  4. April: 0 ascents
    April: 0 ascents
  5. May: 6 ascents
    May: 6 ascents
  6. June: 0 ascents
    June: 0 ascents
  7. July: 3 ascents
    July: 3 ascents
  8. August: 0 ascents
    August: 0 ascents
  9. September: 0 ascents
    September: 0 ascents
  10. October: 0 ascents
    October: 0 ascents
  11. November: 0 ascents
    November: 0 ascents
  12. December: 0 ascents
    December: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Ramp Vertical Overhung Designated
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Rock type
Limestone

History

Erste Routen 1923 (L. Lang ua.) und 1947 (F. Hackl, S. Loicht ua.). Haupterschließung (am Turm) in den 1980ern (C. Enserer, M. Wolf ua.). Generalsanierung und Nacherschließung (linke Wand) ab 1992.
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
1-
15 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6
6 m
–
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
6 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8
7 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9-
7 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9
8 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9-
8 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8
6 m
–
3
No ratings (yet)
Meg
Sport climbing
5+
8 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
4+
10 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7-
28 m
–
14
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7
30 m
–
15
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
15 m
–
7
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
32 m
–
17
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7-
25 m
–
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
25 m
–
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
25 m
1
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7
25 m
–
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7-
27 m
1
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6+
27 m
–
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7-
27 m
–
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8-
40 m
–
13
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8-
40 m
–
13
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6-
35 m
–
12
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6+
30 m
–
9
No ratings (yet)
Alpine Climbing
4+
35 m
2
12
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5+
13 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6+
13 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6
18 m
–
7
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8
18 m
–
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7+
21 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5-
17 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5
17 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)

Coordinates

DD
48.012977, 16.046791
DMS
48°00'46.7"N 16°02'48.4"E
UTM
33U 578065 5318272
w3w 
///courier.tomorrow.declaim
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

Approach

Vom P Holzschlag zum "Großen Zinnenkessel", am Wandfußsteig in südlicher Richtung absteigen, an den "Vallytürmen" vorbei erreicht man die Einstiege des Spartaturms. Die Einstiege der linken Wand erreicht man aus dem Zinnenkessel durch Absteigen auf Steig vom "Mittleren Spartaturm".

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