(8T) Across the Tatras from East to West
The Tatras are very varied, featuring centuries-old forests, glacial lakes, impressive peaks and mountain ranges, solitude. In some areas, off the beaten path, there are many brown bears and wolves.
The trails are all very well marked and maintained. Very difficult peak ascents (not part of this tour) require a mountain guide. Iron protections are plentiful: however, they are executed as chains, so the via ferrata set can be left at home.
Overnight stays are in huts, partly on Slovak and partly on Polish side. One hut is designated as a hotel: a bed in its dormitory can be booked via booking.com. The other huts must be contacted individually, either by email, reservation form, or phone call.
Author’s recommendation
Communication with the hut keepers works quite well by email. An inquiry in English may be answered in Slovak or Polish. So it's best to use a translator.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Schronisko MurowaniecSchronisko PTTK na Hali Ornak
Safety information
Critical spots are secured with chains, into which a via ferrata set cannot be clipped.Tips and suggestions
For preparing the tour
- Rother Verlag: Hiking Guide "High Tatras"
-
TatraPlan hiking map 2501, The West Tatras/Western Tatras 1:25,000
-
TatraPlan hiking map 2502, High Tatras 1:25,000
- Kompass Map (WK 2130: "Tatra High, Belaer")
ISBN 978-3-99154-178-3 - Article in Panorama 5/2017: Forest and Rock. Walking over the Tatras
- Additional online tour description: High Tatras Hiking Tour (7 days)
For information on public transport in Slovakia
- Information and booking portal (Slovakia, train & bus): cp.hnonline.sk
- Information and booking portal (Slovak Railways): https://www.zssk.sk/en
- Information and booking portal (Poland, train & bus): e-podroznik.pl
-
https://www.wirsindanderswo.de/anreise/slowakai-per-bahn-und-bus
- https://bahnreise-wiki.de/wiki/Fahrkarten_und_Tarife_Slowakei
Roadbook
Stage 1 – 5.3 km, 475 m ascent, 0 m descent, approx. 2.5 h
By train via Vienna and Bratislava to Starý Smokovec, where we arrive at 5 pm. Northwards, we walk through the town to the funicular railway, which we take as an ascent aid to Hrebienok, thus halving our distance and above-mentioned approach time (it runs until 7 pm in summer). But even if we walk the whole route, admire the Obrovský waterfall at the terrain step below the hut, we still arrive in time for dinner at Zamkovského chata, where we spend the first night.
Stage 2 – 6.4 km, 648 m ascent, 163 m descent, about 3.5 h
After a brief glimpse into the narrower of the two "cold" valleys and a look at the Seewand, that terrain step before the Tery Hut upstream (2 hours to get there), we return, descend a bit to the fork where we turn right into the "Velká Studená dolina" valley. On unremarkable paths we reach at the end over rocky trails the Zbojnícka chata, where we check in and can have lunch, then do a light trip without luggage through the lake landscape, over to Strelecká veža (2130 m) and back (about 3 h).
Alternative but demanding route for this day stage: via Tery Hut, ascent of Sedielko (3272 m) and T5 climbing over Priečne sedlo pass. It is described here (without summit ascent) on the DAV tour portal or here (private), rated only as "medium" - well?! This would be: 9.7 km, 1113 m ascent, 621 m descent, about 5.5 h
Stage 3 – 15.8 km, 840 m ascent, 1289 m descent, about 8.5 h
A long stage with moderate ascent meters awaits us, including sections where we will be challenged mountaineering-wise, such as at Sedlo Prielom, but consistently supported by chain protections. In the evening we reach Poprad Lake and the hotel, where we spend the night in the dormitory. Those who want can pay extra to use the sauna (should be booked by phone already at noon).
Stage 4 – 10.3 km, 980 m ascent, 1090 m descent, about 7.5 h
On this day, we cross the border into Poland, climbing Poland's highest mountain, Rysy (2501 m). Beforehand, there is an opportunity to have lunch and fortify yourself in the hut of the same name below the summit on the Slovak side, because afterwards it is steep and chain-protected northwest down into the valley, then normally on to the hut where we spend the night. This stage is described in reverse direction here on the DAV tour portal. Many people are on the Polish side here, so the descent can take some time.
Stare Schronisko PTTK Morskie Oko
Stage 5 – 11.1 km, 1022 m ascent, 924 m descent, about 6.5 h
We stay on the Polish side, starting northwards then turning westwards into the Five Lakes area, reaching the first of these lakes. After the second lake, we take the yellow hiking trail up to Kopa nad Krzyżnem (2135 m) and then northwards along the same way into the valley, crossing a ridge spur westwards to reach the hut.
Alternatively, the Eagle Trail can be taken, which makes the stage somewhat shorter but also more demanding. This alternative is described in parts here.
Stage 6 – 15.6 km, 991 m ascent, 1379 m descent, about 8 h
On this day it is advisable to start very early. We have a lot to do for this stage. This tour described in reverse direction here in the DAV tour portal.
Stage 7 / Var. 1 – 15.9 km, 1702 m ascent, 1435 m descent, about 11 h --- or
shorter - Var. 2 - 13.7 km, 1183 m ascent, 927 m descent, about 7 h
This is either the longest stage (variant 1) of the entire tour or a moderate one (variant 2). An early start is generally recommended!
For variant 1: The peaks in the Western Tatras are a bit lower, but there are many we "do" this day, more than 12. On the saddle west of the ‘Hali Ornak’ hut, we turn left southwards and follow the ridge path peak after peak. The highlight is the highest mountain here in the Polish Western Tatras: Starorobociański Wierch (2176 m). By the way, part of this tour is described in reverse direction here in the DAV tour portal.
For variant 2: The first part is the same as variant 1. On the saddle west of ‘Hali Ornak’ hut, we do not turn left (south) onto the ridge, but go straight, descend again and follow the valley, passing Chochołowska hut. Here a break can be taken before ascending again to the summit of Rakoń (1879 m), switching back to the Slovak side. From here it goes downhill again; soon on this steep path we see our goal for the night.
Stage 8 / Var. 1 – 11.5 km, 599 m ascent, 1086 m descent, about 5 h --- or
shorter: Var. 2 – 4.7 km, 3 m ascent, 353 m descent, less than 1 h
For variant 1: A last small ascent brings us through the high valley 'Smutná dolina' up to the saddle 'Smutné sedlo'. Here the ridge path tempts us, on which we could still climb peaks to the west and east. But since we want to catch the bus at noon (12 am) at the end of the following valley 'Žiarska dolina', we simply cross the ridge and descend on the blue-marked trail. We meet the end of a road with the bus stop 'Žiar, Žiarska dolina' here.
For variant 2: An hour-long, unproblematic descent into the valley. In Zuberec, it is necessary to catch the bus to Podbiel in the morning (shortly after 10 am) in order to reach Bratislava by train by half past 3, and then travel home via Vienna and Passau.
Hrebienok
District of Poprad › North
Strelecká veža
Prielom Sedlo
Poľský hrebeň
District of Poprad: Vysoke Tatry › North: Velické pleso - Velický vodopád
Batizovské pleso
Pod Ostrvou
Sedlo pod Ostrvou
Ostrva (1984 m above sea level)
Popradské pleso
District of Poprad › South-west
Chata Pod Rysmi
sedlo Váha
Rysy
Bula pod Rysami
Czarnostawiańska Siklawa
Brzegi: Morskie Oko
Brzegi: Punkt widokowy na morskie oko - Marchwiczny żleb - Miedziane - Szeroki Żleb
Dwoista Siklawa
Szpiglasowa Przełęcz
Wyżnia Liptowska Ławka
Niżni Kostur / Nižný kostúr
Kopa nad Krzyżnem
Krzyzne (Joch, 2.112 m)
Schronisko Murowaniec
Sucha Przełęcz / Suché sedlo
Kasprowy Wierch
Nad Zakosy / Východné Goričkovo sedlo
Goričkova kopa / Goryczkowa Czuba
Wysoka Sucha Czuba Kondracka
Niskie Wrótka
Pośrednia Sucha Czuba Kondracka
Gładki Przechód
Suchá kopa
Kondratova kopa / Kopa Kondracka
Malolučniacke sedlo / Małołącka Przełęcz
Malolučniak / Małołączniak
Kresanica / Krzesanica
Mułowa Przełęcz
Ciemniak / Temniak
Szerokie Siodło
Twarda Kopa
Chuda Przełączka
Schronisko PTTK na Hali Ornak
Iwaniacka Przełęcz
Suchy Wierch Ornaczański
Wyżnia Ornaczańska Przełęcz
Ornak
Ornaczańska Przełęcz
Zadni Ornak
Kotłowe Siodło
Kotłowa Czubka
Siwa Przełęcz
Sivá veža / Siwy Zwornik
Klin / Starorobociański Wierch
Račkovo sedlo
Končistá / Kończysty Wierch
Jarząbcza Przełęcz
Kopa Prawdy
Jarząbczy Wierch / Hrubý vrch
Pod Deravou
Deravá / Łopata
Dziurawa Przełęcz/Deravá
Volovec / Wołowiec
Zawracie
Rakoń / Rákoň
Nohavica
Smutné sedlo
Žiarska chata
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Arrival:
The Zamkovského chata is a starting hut: Information on arrival.
Since this hut is only about an hour from Hrebienok, we can make this arrival without a night train, although that is certainly a pleasant option to consider. So start early in the morning from Altdorf near Nuremberg, just after 5 am.
Via Nuremberg, Passau by train to Vienna, then on to Bratislava, from there with a 4-hour express to Poprad-Tatry, then by a narrow-gauge railway (similar to the Zillertal) to
Starý Smokovec. At the northern end of the town we take the funicular railway covering half the distance to the hut. At Hrebienok we find the hiking trail leading into the world of the two "cold" valleys. We take the right, easterly adjacent path and climb up to the hut as described.
Return journey:
- Option 1: On the last day we hike southwards, crossing another mountain ridge, then descend into the valley to 'Žiar, Žiarska dolina', where we take bus 525 (https://cp.hnonline.sk/) and after about half an hour reach the 'Liptovský Mikuláš' station. From there, the onward journey is by express train to Bratislava hl.st. (station 'Hlavná stanica').
- Option 2: On the last day we hike westwards from the hut towards Zuberec into the valley, reach the road and shortly after the bus stop 'Zuberec,,Tatliakova chata rázc.', where we board bus no. 681 heading west (https://cp.hnonline.sk/), which takes us to Podbiel at the "Jednota" stop. Just minutes later, bus 636 departs from here to Ružomberok train station. We then take the express to Bratislava h.st. (station 'Hlavná stanica').
From there, by bus 93 to Bratislava-Petržalka station and transfer to the regional train to Vienna, then fast train to Nuremberg and finally S-Bahn home.
Tip: On the return trip, we can also take regional trains from Passau to travel more economically while still arriving before midnight.
Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
- TatraPlan hiking map 2501, The West Tatras/Western Tatras 1:25,000
- TatraPlan hiking map 2502, High Tatras 1:25,000
- Kompass map (WK 2130: "Tatra High, Belaer") ISBN 978-3-99154-178-3
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Normal equipment with poles and good footwear is sufficient. Gloves are recommended, especially in the longer chain-secured sections.
For solo hikers, a bear bell on the backpack in lower areas is a good protection against sudden surprises.
At Rysy or comparable steep sections with climbing spots, a helmet is basically indispensable.
Human-created
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions