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Tour in the footsteps of the miners

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  • The Mátyás Spring flows out beneath the entrance to the Ice Cave (adit)
    The Mátyás Spring flows out beneath the entrance to the Ice Cave (adit)
    Photo: Német-Bucsi Attila, Hungarian Hiking Association

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    With our tour, we get a glimpse into the forests above Telkibánya, where we walk through centuries of mining history, medieval tunnels, depressions, and the former mining settlement. In a cozy natural environment, among barely recognizable remnants of miners’ dwellings, we visit the landscape's healing scars, making a time journey and reviving the bygone times. We walk in the old beech forest of the Veres-víz stream valley and on the oak-covered ridge of Kánya Hill. Finally, as a release, we visit Beautiful Ilonka’s romantic grave near King Matthias Well, where the mountain always breathes cool air into the humid stream valley through the entrance to the "Ice Cave."

    Open
    easy
    Distance 8 km
    2:35 h
    315 m
    315 m
    513 m
    276 m

    “Where over the ridges of Telkibánya drifts questionable shadow of brushwood forest,

    And the axe dully thuds, tapping, cutting at hollow beeches,

    Where in old miserly fashion, the ridge hides its treasures in rocky embrace,

    >And stubbornly withstands the researcher miner's iron tools:

    Stands Kánya Hill, once rich in gold and silver ore;

    From its embrace now springs a source, red waves as if blood.

    My soul feels the magical breeze standing on the ridge above the stream;

    And now a secret mouth whispers into my ear, its marvelous story.”

    /Mihály Tompa: Verespatak - excerpt/

    The volcanic mass of the Tokaj Mountains is rich in mineral resources, which means local mining history stretches back to ancient times. Obsidian from Tokaj Mountain was already used by Stone Age people, and tools from here reached throughout Europe. In one cave of the Rátka kaolin mine, antler-made Neolithic scrapers were found.

    Metals were discovered relatively late in the area, so the quartz veins of Kánya Hill above Telkibánya began to be mined in the Árpád era. Mining technology was relatively advanced at this time, offering opportunities to many for profit, so extraction quickly flourished - along with the settlement. Because the 'treasure' lay so deep in quartz veins, only expert eyes could find it, and it remained hidden until the 12th-13th centuries. Millimeter-sized natural gold granules hidden in quartz along with other minerals.

    After mining ore, it had to be crushed finely in ore mills, then gold was extracted by sedimentation and sorting (later refining) for the smelters.

    Besides ore discovery, Charles Robert’s economic policy also boosted the area’s fate. Closing earlier barter trade, the Anjou ruler introduced a unified, hard-to-forge gold florin, uplifting commerce to a new level. He also regulated land ownership, vital due to the close proximity of discovered veins. Mining activities multiplied, with different teams working near each vein outcrop.

    Telkibánya rapidly rose from mountain village to mining town, with population and citizenry multiplying, privileges resulting in growing prosperity. The town reached its peak under King Sigismund in the 15th century. Around then, the Hussite invasion occurred: despite the raiding armies' ravages, profitable mining survived and continued - though major buildings and the castle were destroyed.

    The decline was due to depletion of easily reachable surface veins and discovery of the gold-rich new continent America. At the end of the 15th century, the owner John Thurzó’s technical innovations kept mining alive. Miners descended to deeper levels, creating tunnels inside the mountain. Lipót Mine, Teréz and Ferdinánd tunnels, and Mária mine all arose then, and the Veres-víz altar was deepened further for drainage.

    The most famous legend connected to deep mining was sung by Mihály Tompa about 360 miners who met with misfortune. Although by the technology of the time, so many could not be underground simultaneously in one tunnel, mining accidents surely happened. It has been proven that a serious earthquake shook the region in the mining boom of the mid-15th century, likely causing mining fatalities and inspiring the legend.

    At the end of the 17th century, Francis II Rákóczi restarted the mines to finance the war against the Habsburgs. In the early 18th century, the royal treasury invested in modernizing mining technology, enabling extraction to remain economically viable for nearly another century.

    Mining history in Telkibánya ended between hands of entrepreneurs unable to make profits, who abandoned the tunnels and mining settlement in 1880. The area was explored once more after World War II, but mining would not have been profitable at the gold price then, so the mountain remained intact. Only a military locator has been built since on Kánya Hill, but that is a different story.

    Detailed tour description is available under the Directions menu.

    Author’s recommendation

    • The two most spectacular elements of the circular tour are the abandoned mining settlement of the Veres-víz stream valley and the depressions of Jó Hill. If we find the tour too long, these two locations alone make a great circular route of barely 3 kilometers, thus reducing both distance and elevation by more than half. For this, follow the S↺ sign and the elf-shaped PT sign.
    • In Telkibánya's northern street, we find an industrial history exhibition in the old porcelain factory building. Related to precious ore mining, there is a museum and exhibition along Bőzsvai Street.
    • Telkibánya offers many accommodations for longer stays on the edge of the mountain range. It is worth staying in the village and, after the mining heritage tour, visiting the extensive forests, wild valleys, and ridges undulating with meadows and rocky mountaintops on the southern side. Those interested in history are recommended to visit the Pauline monastery ruins and Amadé Castle most easily accessible via the P trail from Telkibánya, though they belong to Gönc and Fony.
    Difficulty
    easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    513 m
    Lowest point
    276 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
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    Dec

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.40%Dirt road 31.82%Forested/wild trail 2.26%Path 59.05%Road 0.69%Unknown 5.74%
    Asphalt
    33 m
    Dirt road
    2.6 km
    Forested/wild trail
    182 m
    Path
    4.7 km
    Road
    56 m
    Unknown
    462 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    • Move carefully on the edges of tunnels and depressions, do not approach the collapses too closely as the breaks may hide serious depths. The steep, rocky edge can otherwise cause severe injuries.
    • A section of the tour leads on the asphalt road to the radar station. Although traffic is minimal, proceed with due caution on the road.

    Tips and suggestions

    The trail is difficult and only one-way to follow; therefore, it is advised to use the TERMÉSZETJÁRÓ app to navigate the route.

    Roadbook

    Itinerary:

    • Starting from the starting point, head north following the red elf PT signs through Veres-víz Spring, Lipót Mine, Teréz Mine, and touching Jó Hill.
    • On the asphalt, briefly follow the red POO cycling signs straight; at a sharp right turn, leave the paved road to the left and return to the PT sign.
    • From the Telkibánya road, make a detour at the end of the tour to King Matthias Well, the Ice Cave, and the Beautiful Ilonka's Grave on the S● trail.

    Detailed description of the tour:

    Visit to Konczfalva

    At the bottom of the Veres-víz valley, on the edge of a spacious forest clearing, a shelter from the rain, benches and tables, and a fire pit welcome the traveler. The Forester-Miner Friendship Rest was built in the 1970s in memory of the close collaboration of the two professions. Where once miners smelted ore and supported tunnels with wood from surrounding forests, foresters now use mining and metallurgy-based technical achievements for forest management decisions. Axes and saws have long ceased to work here at the bottom of the Veres-víz valley, thus our path leads through impressive beech trunks at the beginning.

    The short section after the meadow is shared with our return route, which arrives along the ridge - after crossing the stream, at the fork, we turn right, following the direction marked by the red elf (PT) along the valley. This nearly one-kilometer long, very atmospheric section follows the old beech forest left intact in the valley bottom. The shallow hollow gradually ascends; at one point, the path skirts wavy surfaces, small terraces, and hills at the bottom of the mountain-side cuts. The rearranged terrain is a trace of former mining: here in the valley bottom, the altars deepened to drain water from veins leading to the shafts and tunnels. Such was the Veres-víz altar, which extended one and a half kilometers deep into the mountain to divert its water - this tunnel connection also served as a transportation route.

    Among the hills, a few stone walls also emerge as legacies of the 18th-century mining revival. In the mid-medieval era, during the mining boom, there existed a mining settlement here, Konczfalva, where ore extracted from the mountaintop was processed. Constant water flow was needed for gold sedimentation, which was available here at the Veres-víz spring. The ruins of the settlement remain only as earth mounds, recalling bygone, bustling times.

    Above the former village, the road bends out of the widening valley, climbing to the left on gentler terrain toward the depressions where much of the mining activity took place. This path can be shortened if time and energy allow only a short hike. However, it is better to continue uphill in the valley following the elf's guidance for the larger circuit.

    On the sides of Fehér and Kánya Hills

    The valley broadens into a wider basin above the fork, and the old beech forest thins out. We break through a young clearing on an increasingly narrow path that curves right onto the side of Fehér Hill, where it joins the bulldozer road of the Fehér Hill quarry. Above us, the young forest's dense canopy reveals the truly white mining wall of the hill. Kaolinized rhyolite was once quarried here for the Telkibánya stoneware factory, but the illite mine at Füzérradvány provided better raw material, causing production to halt soon.

    We steadily ascend on a comfortable bulldozer road, which on the upper section winds around the valley head basin hiding the source of Veres-víz. We reach Fehérhegyi Road (the asphalt leading to the locator), which we follow briefly to the right, switching to the red KOO cycling trail. Unfortunately, the young forest on the hill side offers neither views nor forest experience, but we soon leave it behind. After the steep bend in the road, the path turns off again, following the PT sign and soon arriving at Lipót Mine, the deepest cavity of the hill.

    Originally, this vertical cavity was drilled to connect different mine tunnels for ventilation purposes, and miners initially descended with the help of ladders. Continuous deepening created a 132-meter vertical shaft extending to the Veres-víz altar touched at Konczfalva. Although heavily overgrown, the tunnel's mouth is still distinctly visible - fenced off due to clear danger to life.

    We descend among old beeches; the terrace formed from mined rock turns into a steep slope. Lower down, we turn onto a forest road, traversing almost one kilometer across the rugged slope in an atmospheric oak grove. Where the steepness eases, we descend left onto the asphalt lane of Fehérhegyi Road basin. We walk up a few dozen meters on it and then turn right to Teréz Mine.

    Through the gated entrance, we can peep into the cavity deep inside the mountain, supported by mine timbering. This tunnel was also established in medieval times and named after Maria Theresa when reopened and further deepened in the 18th century. It extends over half a kilometer, crossing veins, but only half of its length is passable.

    After Teréz tunnel, the path returns and also touches Csengő Mine next to it, of medieval origin as well, though extended in mid-20th century because of kaolin mining. We bypass the heap of tunnel debris and curve widely onto the sharply formed ridge beneath Kánya Hill, the once richest gold-bearing area, reaching Jó Hill.

    Descent along the Jó Hill vein

    Along the PT trail, we reach the ridge emerging from the mountainside, then descend a few meters from the forestry road into the bumpy western hillside. Here, we find special surface forms: traces of 14th-15th century open-pit mining, with depressions breaking the wavy ridge as craters. The quartz veins containing precious metals initially stood out as small ridges and rock mounds from the hillside, glistening with tiny, discoverable particles of natural gold. These quartz rocks were mined in the mid-medieval period, from which Telkibánya earned city status. The quarried vein caves gape on the mountain's surface as empty seals of former wealth.

    Returning to the road, we walk comfortably down the atmospheric oak forest with mossy undergrowth along Jó Hill's ridge. Occasionally, white quartz debris appears by the road, for the ridge itself formed due to erosion resistance of quartz veins. The gentle path steepens near the end, finally returning to the branching point in bright oak forest with rich understory, where we started. We trek along the familiar route back to the Forester-Miner Friendship Rest. From here, we take a short visit across the highway to King Matthias Well, Beautiful Ilonka's grave, and the cool breath of the Ice Cave entrance.

    At King Matthias Well, the mouth of the ice pit

    On the S● trail, after barely a hundred meters' walk, we curve down to the streambank stretching across the road. On the shaded valley floor, benches, tables, and a fire pit welcome at the forest clearing's edge, where the cool water of the King’s Well springs at the base of the steep mountainside. Beside it, a stylized grave commemorates the legend of King Matthias and Beautiful Ilonka’s meeting.

    Above the spring on the mountainside is a stone-lined entrance leading to a closed tunnel inside Nagy-Király Hill. Known as the Ice Cave, this cavity is artificial, connected to former mining, so it cannot be called a true cave. Nevertheless, we can feel the icy breath of the mountain generated by a siphon effect. The cavity used by the forestry to store seeds for seedlings barely warms above a few degrees Celsius even in summer. Due to the cool and moist climate, the valley floor trees are covered by thick moss, creating a special primeval forest atmosphere. The spirit of the place and the legend of the hunter king and the virgin girl inspired Mihály Tompa as well:

    “Admiring the virgin’s face and figure: with his eyes he greedily drank her glance, but his burning lips thirsted desperately…”

    “…then the fierce hunter stole her away, embraced her slender waist, and pressed a hot kiss on her red lips.

    >Then, - neither knew how it happened - the beautiful maiden’s precious jug fell accidentally and broke…!

    And frightened, the valley spring instantly turned icy cold…!

    The handsome hunter never appeared again, - the king left the region, -

    And the girl, as the tale says, with tearful eyes, pale, went

    to the mossy edge of the valley spring, sitting sadly alone above it,

    pondered long over the swelling water…

    In her eyes tears, and faithful memory, on her lips a sigh, this silent speech!

    And the silent fever from which the flower turned yellow, fell around the spring:

    It took the pale girl to sleep, once the most beautiful flower…!

    The burial mound is near the well; the heart already quiet, the wilderness silent.

    Only the spring quietly speaks but does not tell the reason for sorrow.”

    /Mihály Tompa: King’s Well/ (excerpt)

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    Public transport

    • There is no bus stop near the hiking route.

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    Tour in the footsteps of the miners

    Directions

    • We find a parking lot next to the Forester-Miner Friendship Rest; the tour starts from here.

    Parking

    • We can park at King Matthias Well on the north side of the main road at the designated parking and resting area.

    Coordinates

    DD
    48.489019, 21.403635
    DMS
    48°29'20.5"N 21°24'13.1"E
    UTM
    34U 529823 5370733
    w3w 
    ///egging.dethrone.invested
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Author’s map recommendations

    Equipment

    • Hiking shoes or boots, weather-appropriate clothing, food and drink, for navigation TERMÉSZETJÁRÓ app.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from Hungarian.

    User Questions


    December 20, 2021
    Német-Bucsi Attila
    Kedves Andrea! Az eredeti túra, ami a tanösvény jelzést követi és a Király-kúthoz is letér, számottevően rövidebb az ön által tervezettnél, viszont ehhez autóval vagy tömegközlekedéssel el kell jutni a Király-kúthoz. Az ön túratervéből egyedül a Király-kúthoz levezető részt lehet megspórolni, bár talán hangulatában pont ez a legjobb szakasz. Ha a Jó-hegyi horpáktól a S körtúra (K tanösvény) jelzésen átvágnak Koncfalva romjaihoz, akkor kb. 3 kilométert spórolnak az ön által megtervezett túrából. Ha autóval nem megoldható az ajánlott túrához való eljutás, akkor talán ez a megoldás. Üdvözlettel, Német-Bucsi Attila

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    Status
    Open
    Difficulty
    easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    8 km
    Duration
    2:35 h
    Ascent
    315 m
    Descent
    315 m
    Highest point
    513 m
    Lowest point
    276 m
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