The magical secrets of Somló

Itinerary

• We start from the restaurant on the S+ trail heading east, then north
• When we reach the S trail, we turn left, then shortly turn right onto a paved, unmarked path. This path takes us up to the Stone Kitchen (Kőkonyha) beneath the basalt organs
• We return to the intersection of the S+ and S trails and continue straight, following the S trail eastward
• After reaching the plateau below the summit, we make a short detour left on the ST trail to the lookout point on top of the basalt organs
• We return to the S trail and follow it to the castle ruins, where the SL trail leads in
• From the castle ruins we go north on the S trail, then on the western side of the mountain we switch left onto the branching S+ trail
• On the SL trail we can take another short detour to walk out to the Saint Helena Chapel
• We continue on the S+ trail to the Taposókút, where we turn right onto the S trail and follow it back all the way to the starting point

Detailed description of the hike

From the Stone Kitchen to the lookout

On Somló, we can walk almost anywhere and absorb the atmosphere of the mountain. However, we have to choose a route, and we start now from the Hegykapu restaurant heading east on the S+ trail. While climbing up the increasingly steep cone-shaped slopes characteristic of the witness mountains, we admire the cellars of various ages and conditions. Soon we reach the S trail; turning left on it and then turning right onto an unmarked but paved path leads us to the Stone Kitchen hidden at the base of the basalt columns. From here, there is a beautiful view over the Somlóvásárhely slopes and the basalt organs looming above us. If we come here around the end of April, the dark gray rocks are colored bright yellow by the rocky thyme growing even in the cracks, a tiny flower cluster and a protected plant.

Returning to the S trail, we soon find ourselves at the Saint Margaret Chapel, which was originally built in the 15th century by the nuns of Somlóvásárhely in a Gothic style, destroyed during the Turkish era, and then resurrected as a Baroque building. It houses the image of Saint Margaret of Antioch and stands next to the Saint John the Baptist Chapel. At this point, we really turn into the mountain and enter a forested band, where a shaded trail covered with basalt rocks leads us to the plateau beneath the summit of Somló. To the left, on the ST trail, we can make a detour to the top of the basalt columns, which offers a fantastic panorama—essentially the same view as from the Stone Kitchen, but from higher up. Looking back, we can spot our next stop, the Saint Stephen Lookout on the summit, and the huge wooden cross monument standing in front of it.

From the series of witness hills to the castle ruins with its adventurous history

We tackle the climb to Somló's summit via the S trail. The view is dominated by the Saint Stephen Lookout, built from basalt stones in 1938 and formerly known as the Petőfi Tower, but the real highlight is climbing up to its 12-meter-high terrace. An entrance fee is required at the buffet, but don’t miss it, as an incredible panorama unfolds before us: looking north, we can see the ruins of Somló fortress in front of Doba, eastward the heights of Bakony including Kőris-hegy and Kab-hegy, and we can spot the castles of Szigliget, Tátika, Rezi, and Sümeg. On clear days, the peaks of the Rax and Schneeberg over 2000 m also appear. The top attraction, however, is how the witness hills of the Tapolca Basin line up on the southeastern horizon: the chain of Hegyesd, Csobánc, Gulács, Haláp, Badacsony, and Szent György Hill dominates the distant skyline. Descending from the lookout, we find the Saint Stephen monument on the edge of the small plateau, where benches invite us to rest if we are tired.

From the lookout, through oak, linden, and ash trees along the S trail, we reach the remains of Somló castle, which the SL trail leads directly into. Although presumably built immediately after the Tatar invasion, its first written mention dates only from 1352. Its history is very adventurous: it changed owners countless times, witnessed a serious battle in 1543 in which the forces of Miklós Zrínyi slaughtered three thousand Turks, and was once owned by the cultured yet decadent poet László Listi, who wrote the chronicle of the Mohács disaster but was also accused of bloody crimes and was beheaded in 1662 for forging money. Among notable owners, Pál Kinizsi is worth mentioning; a nearby rock bears the mark of his legendary strength, said to have dented it when he rested there on his way.

We enter the fortress, protected by steep slopes on three sides, through a narrow passage. Its characteristic tower with a hexagonal base was once thought to be the kitchen chimney but more likely belonged to the chapel built by Tamás Bakócz. The ecclesiastical dignity was purchased from the Szapolyai family and transformed the Somló castle into a Renaissance castle at the end of the 15th century. The ruins also offer a magnificent panorama from certain points—we can look back to the forest-covered summit of Somló, dominated by the tower of Saint Stephen Lookout rising above the trees.

Back to the mountain’s skirt

Leaving the castle by continuing on the S trail, we exit the forest and then, following the S+ trail, circle the summit counterclockwise around the mountain skirt. Our next stop is the Saint Helena Chapel, accessible via the SL trail: although the current building dates from the 19th century, it is believed that there stood a chapel here as early as the 14th century, established by the Paulite monks of Nagyjenő (Tüskevár), which was also destroyed during the Turkish era. The reconstruction was funded by the believers through the sale of must, who also provided for the furnishings.

About 800 meters later, in the courtyard of the former August–Dervarics press house, we see the unique Taposó well in the country, which allowed water to be drawn from 80 m depth by turning a 3-meter drum resembling a watermill wheel by "foot power". Many similar devices once operated nationwide, but today only this one remains—more precisely, it was restored in 1960. From here, we follow the S trail downhill again, enjoying the company of the press houses as we stroll back to our starting point at the restaurant, where we can toast with a last glass of Somló wine. Cheers!