Large loop in the heart of the Eastern Mecsek

Itinerary

• Start from the parking lot and head west on the K marked trail, following this mark to the junction at the end of the ascent.
• At the intersection, turn right onto the S marked hiking trail, which we follow to the end of the ascent to the summit.
• Take the unmarked path branching to the left to reach Cigány Hill. After visiting the lookout, return on the same path.
• Descend back to the asphalt road on the S route.
• Turn left onto the K marked trail and walk through Kisújbánya to the center of Óbánya.
• At the intersection in the center of Óbánya, turn right onto the Z+ trail, which we follow to the nearby forest junction.
• At the junction, turn right onto the Z▲ trail, which we follow passing the Belátó Lookout up to the ridge.
• At the ridge, turn right onto the Z marked trail, following it for a long stretch to the junction between Kisújbánya and Püspökszentlászló.
• At the intersection, turn right onto the S trail, and follow it through the Miske Hill to the Kisújbánya asphalt road.
• On the asphalt road, turn right onto the K trail to return to the Kisújbánya parking lot.

Detailed description of the route

Up to Cigány Hill

Our journey starts from the parking lot before Kisújbánya, which can be reached by car from Zobákpuszta via the forest road. First, we head towards the 524 m high Cigány Hill on asphalt (K trail). From there, a short ascent branches off to the right, on which we follow the S mark, then in the last meters we turn left onto an unmarked path. At the hilltop, an exciting lookout awaits: a stone structure built in 1980 was later covered in 2007 with a wooden-clad metal frame to enjoy the panoramic view from a higher point. The lower level is sheltered, so you can take cover from the rain without getting wet.

The view is dominated north and east by the Dobogó and Szószék massifs, while looking west we can follow the ever-lower peaks surrounding the Vár Valley until they disappear; in this direction, we have a view over the Mecsek. Turning southwest, the view extends to Misinai and Jakab Hill, while the southern panorama is dominated by the much closer Hármas Hill and Zengő.

From the lookout, return via the same paths to the parking lot, then descend to Kisújbánya on the K marked trail.

Glashüttengrund

We descend steeply on an asphalt road toward Kisújbánya to arrive at one of the former centers of glassmaking craftsmanship in the Mecsek. At the end of the 17th century, after the Turkish invasions, glassmaking appeared as a novelty in Mecsek's forests. Almost all essential raw materials were abundantly available in the mountain range: lime, potash made from the bark of beech trees, and the excellent burning wood of beech. (Only quartz sand had to be brought from the nearby Zselic.) On our tour, we pass two old glassmaking centers, Kisújbánya and Óbánya, where Bavarian and Moravian masters introduced glass production knowledge at the beginning of the 18th century. Why do we call these places "-bánya"? It is believed that the contemporary colloquial language called these places mines, where many things were made—in our case, "glass mines." Óbánya's original German name is Altglashütte, meaning "old glassworks," while Kisújbánya's is Neuglashütte, meaning "new glassworks." The area was also called Glashüttengrund by the Swabians, meaning "land of glassworks," because the furnace fires consumed wood, causing the glassworks to move onward continually.

Although the glass industry ceased in the 19th century, Kisújbánya did not become depopulated; its residents mainly shifted to animal husbandry and woodworking. However, the village did not survive socialism and became entirely abandoned within a few years in the early 1970s. Later, residents of nearby towns purchased and renovated Kisújbánya's adobe houses, turning the former glassworks into an attractive resort village. Today, many guesthouses are operated by foreign owners, and the traditional street image has been preserved.

The small Kisújbánya's two most notable buildings are the beautifully renovated village hall and the St. Martin Church standing on the hill next to it, accessible by a long staircase. Climbing the stairs is worthwhile; the church is in good condition and will not disappoint. Along the village’s main street, we can also see a reconstructed farm cart, whose function is explained by information boards installed along the street.

A famous stream valley

The most attractive landmark in the Eastern Mecsek is the Öreg Stream valley, the Óbánya Valley, between Kisújbánya and Óbánya. The stream emerges at the surface, tumbling over tilted limestone slabs for kilometers, forming smaller and larger waterfalls. Among them, the Slanting Waterfall near Kisújbánya is the most spectacular, where the fresh water of the Öreg Stream trickles down limestone steps 20-30 cm high. After the waterfall, we cross a narrow wooden bridge over the narrow stream valley to soon arrive at the other main attraction of the tour, the Dripping Rock.

Water continuously seeps through the limestone rock from the heart of the mountain, creating tiny dripstone formations in the protected recess of the rock. Several larger boulders surround the Dripping Rock, causing the stream's water to collect in a small pond before rushing onward to Óbánya after a short rest. But let's not rush and enjoy every meter of this wonderful environment!

The stream valley widens from Kisújbánya toward Óbánya, but we traverse the route on K trail through tall forest. Roughly halfway, a larger stream valley joins the Óbánya Valley perpendicularly, offering a truly spectacular site. Along the way, the path shares the gorge’s bottom with the stream: in low water, plenty of stones are available to hop across; during high water, caution is necessary, and the wet stones can be very slippery.

“Mini-Switzerland” deep in the Mecsek

The wild character toward Óbánya does not diminish, and after crossing more streams, we arrive at the outermost houses of the one-street village. Here we encounter another curiosity: the Trout Lakes. These two ponds are stocked with trout raised by the fresh and excellent quality mountain stream water. Fish can also be eaten at the tavern in the village center (Tip: reserve in advance to ensure availability). Passing the atmospheric lakes, we reach Óbánya. The street is noticeably tidy on both sides, lined mostly with white-painted, porch-fronted peasant houses, many decorated profusely with flowers by their owners. Among the numerous guesthouses, locals still live here, mostly encountered on weekday hikes, for example, in the aforementioned community square.

The village often called "Switzerland of Hungary," Óbánya, is left behind by following the Z+ trail, turning right after the church from the main street. Entering the forest, we turn left onto the Z▲ trail, which after a short but sharp ascent, offers a view back to the village: we reach the wooden construction named Belátó Lookout. The lookout opened in 2009 is now overgrown with trees, so hikers will have to stretch sufficiently in 2024 to enjoy the panorama.

After the lookout, the climb continues toward the 383-meter peak, where we turn right onto the Z marked trail. We follow the atmospheric Mecsek ridge for the next 4 km to gain a completely different experience from the Öreg Stream valley: the forest is open, bright, and spacious, with rich understory vegetation in places, notably the spiny miracle berry. This monocotyledon shrub has spiny leaves, which are actually modified stem structures. Because the miracle berry is evergreen, it adds color to even the snow-covered forest in winter.

From forest to pasture

An interesting point on our route is the meeting place of five hiking trails, all marked green: Z, Z+, and Z●. At this junction stands a forestry hut and a resting place with benches, where we can catch our breath. We continue following the Z marked trail to the junction below Hárs Hill, which exceeds Cigány Hill in elevation. Here, we turn right onto the S trail and soon reach the large pasture of Miske Hill, a remnant of the post-glassmaking life of Kisújbánya residents. The scattered hunting stands and lonely trees break the momentum of the landscape’s waves; we can also climb one of the hunting stands by the roadside for a higher view of the area.

The vast meadow may surprise hikers, but it is a striking feature dominating the central region of Eastern Mecsek, especially from the nearby peak of Zengő (682 m). While crossing the meadow and looking back, the peaks of Zengő and Hármas Hill emerge from the backdrop. After the branching path of the Üvegesek (glassmakers') trail coming from Kisújbánya, pay attention to the dense wooded grove hiding the old cemetery of Kisújbánya. It’s worth pushing through the vegetation to observe the sometimes several-hundred-year-old graves and the stone cross.

The last meters of our hike run along Miske Hill, returning to the junction leading to Cigány Hill, from where it is only a few minutes back to our starting parking lot on the K trail (turn right).