In the footsteps of Zala beech forests, castles, and cellars

Itinerary

• From the bus stop, head south, then west on the S◼ marker, which leads to the Padua Saint Anthony Chapel.
• Return to the triple junction and continue on the K▲ trail.
• Reach the Várhegy peak via an unmarked path.
• From the K▲ trail, a short detour on the S● trail takes you to the Várdomb spring.
• Continue on the K▲ trail.
• At the village boundary (where the K trail also joins), cross the Mántai Creek bridge and turn left at the road sign (follow the unmarked road to Kerekvár).
• Circumvent the hill on the left.
• Turn right at the first open space.
• At the summit, turn right again to reach the ruins of Kerekvár.
• Return to the K trail and head right on it.
• From the Kisboldogasszony Church, return to the K+ trail.
• Turn right onto the P trail, bypassing the Saint Orbán Lookout.
• On the S◼ trail, head left down the main road embankment until the Bocskai bus stop (last few meters unmarked).

Detailed tour description 

Bocska

The settlement was first mentioned in a charter in 1459 as Bocsita, then as Bochyta in 1465. During the Turkish wars, the community returned to Hungarian hands in 1687 and was known as Bocska by 1720, whose borders were cut through by several rivers equipped with water mills. For example, the Deszics river, after which the western part of the settlement, the now-ruined village of Deszics from the Turkish era, was named. Only the memory of the watercourse remains today. From a 1360 document, we know there was a castle and church in Bocsk, whose ruins stood until about 200 years ago.

Up to Vár-hegy

From the bus stop, head west on the S◼ trail, then turn right behind two wells to reach the Padua Saint Anthony Chapel built in 1937. The chapel is preceded by a beautiful 15-station Way of the Cross, consecrated in 2006 by Bajner Jenő (abbot-parish priest), Erdős Géza (archdeacon), Kirner Zoltán, and Nagy János (parish priests), with bas-reliefs by Dienes Gyula, an art teacher from Zalaszentbalázs. Before the first station stands a statue of Saint Philomena, carved in 2010 by woodcarvers Boa Endre and Tislér Zoltán. Legend tells of an early Christian princess born on Corfu Island in the 3rd century, who died as a martyr at 13 for refusing Emperor Diocletian’s marriage proposal due to a vow of purity made two years prior. After enduring tortures, an iron anchor was tied around her neck and she was thrown into the Tiber River, but two angels cut the ropes and brought her to shore wearing dry clothes. During her suffering, many miracles occurred leading many to convert to Christianity. Ultimately beheaded, her soul ascended to heaven in glory. The crucifix in front of the chapel was erected by Francsics István, his wife, and her brother in 1938.

Return to the triple junction and cross the Kürtös Creek, continuing on the K▲ trail. This charming rural section passes old houses, ancient barns, and stables. Behind the pastures, where mixed grazing communities live, dense pine forests darken. Leaving the last farmhouse, we zigzag along an asphalt serpentine road through a secondary forest on Vár-hegy, nearing a small hill appearing like a prehistoric tumulus, revealing hidden concrete elements as we pass. When and how they arrived here remains to be discovered…

Soon the forest changes: from here, we cross authentic Zala beech forests. Upon reaching the summit, known as God's hill, Boba hill, and Várdomb, we arrive at the highest point of the Letenye Hills (338m) - instead of a view, an informational board and concrete bunkers greet us.

In the 1950s, a nationwide radio-technical network for aerial target detection was built in Hungary. As part of this, the Hungarian People's Army established the Sormási I. Homeland Radio-Technical Battalion in 1952. One of its instrument parks was deployed here on Vár-hegy peak, as the locality was unsuitable for radar operation. Initially, the site was equipped with a P-1 centimeter-range surveillance and hunter direction radar, plus a P-3 meter-range radar locator station. Continuous modernizations increased detection and altitude measurement precision. Between 1970-72, the station was fortified, including concrete shelters for the command center. The unit was disbanded in 1998.

Over to Obornak

After the barrier, we circle the flat hilltop; here is clearly visible the characteristic form of former earth fortresses, likely the origin of the name. Archaeologists uncovered a prehistoric settlement and a medieval skeletal cemetery on the hill.

The beech forest understory commonly hosts protected Zala bedstraw, an Atlantic-submediterranean species with pale dirty-yellow flowers favored by ants for nectar collection. Arriving at the S● marker, a short detour leads to the Várdomb spring, where a bench-table set awaits visitors.

Returning to the K▲ trail, then out of the forest along an asphalt road, we pass a harvested area enclosed by a deer fence. Before the pine forest, we sharply turn left and soon enter Obornak. The village features a bell cage then passes a cross. At the village boundary, follow the K trail right, cross the Mántai Creek bridge, and turn left at the road sign to reach the small hill where Kerekvár sits (isn’t the K3 trail here?).

Kerekvár

No tourist markers are found; we follow the road around the hill on the left, then turn right at a cross-clearing and climb to the top. Turning right again, we reach Kerekvár. A small wooden residential tower may have stood here in the 12th-13th centuries, surrounded by castle guards and double ditches. Builders may have been Martonos, son of János of Obronak who was executed in the 1270s for misdeeds, and Master Jakab who acquired the holdings. Jakab arrived in the reign of Andrew III and belonged to the German-origin Hahót-Buzád lineage. The stronghold is not mentioned in charters, its location first appearing in 1390 as "villa Esztregnye".

We return toward Obornak. After the bridge, following the K trail, we pass meadows, then turn sharply left. After overcoming the ascent, we reach a hunting stand and a stone crucifix inscribed: "Thanks to God." We continue over rolling forest hills, bypassing the next, unfortunately poorer condition crucifix, arriving 500 m later at the Kisboldogasszony Church on the edge of Homokkomárom.

Homokkomárom

Located on the edge of the Principális Valley, Homokkomárom was first mentioned in a charter in 1293 as Kamar, Humukcamar. In 1360, Pauline monks settled around the village, but their monastery and church were destroyed during the Turkish invasion. In 1744, Count Lajos Batthyány, the last Hungarian-born palatine, received the village and surroundings as a royal donation from Maria Theresa.

The Kisboldogasszony Church

Colonel József Schenkendorf built a wooden chapel on this site in 1702, maintained by Franciscan monks from Kanizsa. In 1717, Esch Ferenc acquired it as part of the estate and in 1722 began constructing the current church, supported by Count Lajos Batthyány, palatine of Hungary, with connections to Kanizsa. The church’s icon was discovered during foundation excavation, reportedly from the roots of a linden tree. The 17th-century painting depicts the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus and was revered as miraculous in the 18th century. Tradition says it was repeatedly moved to the lower chapel but returned nightly to its current place. The church preserves the relic of child martyr Saint Felix's blood, donated in 1751 by Pope Benedict XIV thanks to intercession by former abbot Ottó Koptik of Celldömölk. The site became a famous pilgrimage destination. The church was renovated in 1938 by prince László Batthyány-Strattmann. The nobleman, beatified in 2003 and known as "doctor to the poor," has his relic preserved since January 22, 2006, by the Community of the Eight Beatitudes in the Blessed Batthyány-Strattmann László Chapel.

A Way of the Cross leads to the church, probably built by German settlers arriving in the 18th century. The 15 ceramic station images of the Way of the Cross, consecrated in 2005, were created by ceramic artist Márta Magyar.

Opposite the church stands a monastery built between 1772-1778 for priests serving pilgrims. From 1911, it was the parish building. In 1990, under Bishop József Szendi’s invitation, the Community of the Eight Beatitudes moved into the then vacant monastery.

Vineyard walk from Homokkomárom to Magyarszerdahely

Return to the long row of vineyards in Homokkomárom on the K+ trail. This is the largest contiguous vineyard area in the Balatonmellék wine region. On the "hill," several old traditional cellar types can be observed, including log walls and timber-framed, daubed buildings.

The technique of building with log walls is traceable in the Carpathian Basin as far back as the Neolithic. Walls consist of horizontally stacked poles or beams, joined to adjacent walls by beam tenons with many variations over time. High-quality wood allowed seamlessly smooth walls. From the late 18th century, the technique rapidly declined due to restrictions on peasant forest use and the disappearance of old trees. One of the earliest well-preserved cellars of this type in the county is the Darnay cellar in Gyenesdiás, built in 1644.

For timber-framed daub walls, thinner poles were placed between the main columns and woven with twigs or reeds, then plastered on both sides with mud or clay. Daub walls are thinner but sturdier than adobe brick or rammed earth walls. They could be built with or without footings; both types can be found on our route.

Building years often appear on the buildings. Some date from the late 19th century, like the one beside which we turn right onto the P trail. Their walls sometimes feature various stucco motifs.

Along the way, there are views towards the Zalapáti ridge and Cicelle hill from among the cellars. Behind an old log-walled cellar, a large sweet chestnut spreads above a slate-roofed building. On another property stands a large wine press. Passing the Perkó cross erected in 1918, we soon reach a uniquely renovated building locally called Pingált Cellar. After a short forest section, avoiding a large multi-trunk sweet chestnut sprout, we arrive among the charming cellars of Új-hegy, followed by Kurta and Aligvár hills. The latter’s vintners erected a crucifix by the road in 1913, past which our tour also passes. After a brief beech forest section, the path leads through vineyards of Magyarszerdahely along Lukács-dűlő and Szerdahelyi hill.

Magyarszerdahely

A short ascent leads to the Saint Orbán statue made in 2012 by woodcarvers Endre Boa, Csaba Csávás, and Zoltán Tislér. Saint Orbán is the patron saint of the vineyards, recognized by both the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches. His feast day is May 25. He is also the protector of vineyards, winegrowers, coopers, and innkeepers. Near him, at 258 m elevation, the Saint Orbán Lookout offers panoramic views of the Principális Valley.

Only a few hundred meters away from the wooden structure is the Saint Christopher rest area, featuring a playground and benches. Across the road stands a tin crucifix and the Saint Christopher or Mountain bell. The latter was consecrated in 1832 in honor of the Holy Cross and renovated in 1926, the 1960s, and most recently in 2012. An impressive pine next to it was cut down in spring 2021.

From the rest area, follow the trail to the main road, where before the Csárdi cross erected in 1868, we turn left on the S◼ trail and walk along the road embankment to the Bocskai bus stop, the endpoint of our tour.

A detailed description of the tour can be read under the Itinerary menu.