Four volcanoes hike

Itinerary

• From Gyulakeszi, follow the Z trail down to the ruined church located at the foot of Csobánc.
• Turn right onto a short (unmarked) path that leads to the K trail.
• Turn right and follow the K trail to reach the top of Csobánc.
• The K trail leads to Káptalantóti.
• After the pub, turn left onto the K▲ trail.
• At the end of a small meadow, switch right to the Z trail.
• Soon after, we take a right detour at another meadow to the summit of Tóti Hill via the Z▲ trail.
• Returning to the Z trail, continue on it to the base of Gulács.
• Turn left onto the K▲ trail, climb to the summit of Gulács, then return on the same path to the foot of the hill.
• Turn right onto the K trail, continue hiking until you reach the Badacsony Kőkapu crossing.
• On the right, the S▲ trail branches off, leading to a short detour to the Tördemic basalt mine viewpoint.
• Continue walking on the K trail towards the summit.
• Turn left on the K▲ trail to reach the Kisfaludy lookout, from where you return to the K trail.
• Follow the K trail, but where it turns left, stay on the straight, unmarked path.
• Rejoin the K trail leading to the Egry József lookout.
• From the lookout, start back on the K trail, which this time you follow to the Páholykő lookout.
• Go downhill right on the K▲ trail, which guides you to the railway station.

Detailed information about the hike

The border of empires, Csobánc

The Z trail starts from Gyulakeszi for a long walk over the hills towards the lake. The hiking path turns east at the church and follows the road to the end of the house row. As soon as you reach the dirt road, the whole of Csobánc appears in view, and a little later you can identify the silhouettes of most of the witness hills in deep perspective. It looks like a fantasy drawing of an imagined mountain area, jumping above the plain with an absurd simplicity, with peaks that are either simply flat or improbably pointed like in a minimalist sketch. Where the terrain is rather gentle, vineyards stretch out with cellars and simple holiday homes among them. The Bakony to the north drains the ocean air masses coming through the Danube valley, resulting in a drier climate with many hours of sunshine combined with the humid air from Lake Balaton - ideal for a variety of grape types, as is the volcanic soil.

The dirt road steadily climbs. You cross an acacia loess section and, looking back, the view increasingly opens towards the ridges of the Keszthely Hills. Viticulture appeared here from the 13th century, and crosses were often erected at the many small vineyard junctions - this is evidenced by a crucifix along the path. You enter thicket and dense forest; Csobánc now rises above you with a robust wall, and after a left curve you encounter a dilapidated ruin squeezed by vegetation. The “Bad Church” belonged to the medieval vineyard village of Csobáncszög, depopulated during the Turkish era. Due to lack of water and relatively high elevation, it is no wonder it was never resettled afterwards.

Turning right before the church ruins onto an unmarked trail, the rocks surrounding the summit and the remains of the castle walls become clearly visible. Within meters, you join a marked hiking trail, turning right on the K trail to start the ascent of Csobánc. On a gravel path through forest with thin-trunked trees, you reach an astonishingly beautiful rocky grassy section: the small path winds around the hillside, offering wonderful views to the right and ahead. Beyond the Tapolca Basin lies the whole Keszthely Hills, with most of the witness hills rising ahead. The misty Lake Balaton and neighboring hills' panorama accompanies you to the summit, while the path zigzags revealing views in the other direction as well. From the second curve, you can observe the Balaton Uplands and the western parts of the Bakony; finally, with a last effort, you take the castle.

Due to its prominent position, the panorama is brilliant and recommended to admire from every angle - it is worth spending longer time on the grassy summit and walking around it. The witness hills seem to parade, their silhouettes glowing through the mist: the pointed shapes of Tóti Hill, Gulács, and Badacsony indicate difficult challenges ahead; to the right, the large pancake of Szent György Hill and the more modest hills of Szigliget dominate the landscape.

The grim castle walls were built in the 13th century by the nobles of Diszel, determining the later fate of the region: when the castle of Hegyesd fell to the Turks, Csobánc became a border fortress and successfully resisted sieges. It defined the boundary between the Ottoman and Habsburg empires for about one and a half centuries. When this part of the Balaton Uplands flared up again (this time due to human reasons), the famous historian of the Turkish army marching under Csobánc, Evlia Çelebi, described the sight thus: “It is a very strong square castle on a high mountain top. When our army passed by, they fired fifty cannons. The bastions and peaks of the castle were decorated with crusader flags.” Although it withstood the imperial armies for a long time, it was eventually blown up after falling into their hands, and the once proud walls now stand as dark ruins over the Balaton landscape. The material is basalt, like the plateau: the 376-meter elevation is three and a half million years old, and the explosive volcanic debris ring is filled by basalt lava lake, which cooled and preserved the mountain from erosion. (In the final phase there was even scoria scattering.)

In the realm of vineyards

The K trail bypasses the ruins and after one last lookout on the other side, a rocky steep path penetrates the grove. In the linden debris slope forest, the basalt cover emerges from the soil, with its Ice Age frost-broken debris carpet revealing a fragment of its fate. We avoid the spring fitted with a solar pump at Castle Well (which unfortunately does not always work), and reach the ring of vineyards, thus again visiting the inhabited zone of the witness hills region. Our winding path takes a southern turn; the nearby witness hills bend over us again, showing the direction. On the Gyulakeszi country road, we turn right, then after a short walk at the fork turn left, choosing the connecting road leading to Káptalantóti.

A substantial asphalt walk follows to the village center, where the welcoming coolness of the pub offers relief before the strenuous climb of Tóti Hill. Káptalantóti existed under the attraction of two neighboring witness hills: until the 13th century it belonged to Csobánc’s castle, but after the nearer elevation it was simply called Toti. At the central fork, we change trails: from now on, look for the K▲ markings branching to the left.

Under gardens, first along a creek, then on a dirt road, we leave the village; at the end of a meadow, vineyards and peaceful holiday homes line the slope. The huts disappear, and our path turns right, now in the shadow of the forest. Soon at a meadow, we must orient ourselves; finding the signs here is not easy: on the clearing, take a left-upwards direction, with the wild hedge on our right.

Then pictograms appear directing towards Tóti Hill, the “oldest witness,” but this time we switch to the Z trail, which calls sharply to the right. The forest soon clears again because next to a vineyard, a mower and orchard open a view to the summit. It is not far, but the ascent won’t be easy: the right-branching Z▲ path is slim but climbs steeply through thick thicket.

The bisected panoramic view of Tóti Hill

At the top the trees disappear and the bedrock emerges. From the grassy ridge of the summit, the panorama towards the south is undisturbed. Much closer than before, the evaporating water mass of Lake Balaton becomes visible, covered by Badacsony and Gulács. At their feet, vineyard rows draw geometric textures on the terrain, while dense thickets cover their sides and backs thanks to protection. Szent György Hill and the Keszthely Hills are not missing, and in the opposite direction, lower hills line the shore, blocking the Káli Basin. Just opposite, the double peak of Fonyód marks the hills of Somogy region.

Following the path further, we reach the rear, the real climax: Tóti Hill has no spreading back because although its volcanism is the same as its peers, the basalt magma never reached the surface but solidified in the vent. This hard 'needle' is the backbone of the formation, upon which the characteristically pointed shape rests like a scaffold. Now we can barely look around: the vegetation covers only a narrow stretch towards the lake; beyond that the view is complete, and the entire Káli Basin unfolds. Few places in the Balaton Uplands offer such a wide view of the mountain range.

The scarf-wrapped witness

Descending back to the Z trail, we head into the forest, where a stone wall protects the wagon road, and an old cellar can be spotted - the hollow indicates that the vineyard realm once extended this far. In the 18th-19th centuries, cellars were deepened parallel to the slope along the lower, less valuable parts of the plots. (Later, after the phylloxera devastation, only the lower terraces were replanted due to water shortage for spraying.) Shade trees, usually walnuts, were planted next to their entrances.

The thicket gradually recedes, and above the vines we glimpse our next daunting target, Gulács. We circle a winery and step onto a connecting road from a pleasant park-like area beside a cattle pasture. We keep left, then a few meters ahead turn right to start the exhausting assault on a forest track.

Climbing through oak forest, the path winds before the Z trail calls to the right - views from above are scarce, only some narrow glimpses appear on sections of the trail; thus it’s worth considering the climb. But soon the K▲ trail branches off, winding like a scarf on the neck of the elevation: gradually ascending, we first cross a wide stone sea, then on a very narrow path reach the summit. The basalt ribs that contracted column-wise during cooling emerge, similar to the previously visited neighboring hill's vent filling; the much steeper western side was heavily quarried. As the upward trail cuts across the slope, its angle increases; the rocky, bush-like forest covers the stony soil. From select points, you can see Badacsony and Lake Balaton - appreciate this view, as the summit offers no more! The back of Szent György Hill also appears, and at the top, rock piles pierce the ground.

Through the Stone Gate

At the summit, it’s worth resting but no longer lingering - although the name Gulács originally meant a barren hill, the summit is covered with dense vegetation. (Another interpretation suggests the name derives from the conical shape.) Descending to the foot of the slope, turn right on the K trail for the final challenge: Badacsony, which shadows Gulács’ southern face - hence less vineyard under the forest zone and low-key holiday homes due to lack of view.

We reach a busy road via streets, turning left and shortly afterwards switching onto a right branch dirt road. Slowly, we encircle the vineyards and approach (but do not touch) Kőböl well, named after a clan settled here after the Hungarian conquest. The K trail turns onto a high-edged, sandy corridor, and exiting it, the previously visited cone appears. Among the upper holiday homes, the Stone Gate valley is visible, cutting into Badacsony’s summit, its edges revealing basalt pipe chimneys.

At a resting place, we reach the forest edge, from where we contend with wooden steps descending the meters ahead. Increasingly more grim stone blocks emerge from the leaf litter until basalt takes over: on a fragmented black basalt sea, a trail reinforced by a retaining wall squeezes through, raising our eyes to wild rock walls supporting the slope.

Badacsony is covered by multiple lava flows: initially deposited debris rings were filled with glowing basalt lava, which solidified and developed vertical cracks due to shrinkage. During ice ages, water freezing in cracks strongly shattered the rocks, isolating blocks resembling columns. The stone sea at our feet is actually a debris slide, not just weathered lava flow remains, consisting of rock material fallen off basalt pipes. The harsh “carpet” still slowly creeps downhill, bending to gravity’s will, preventing vegetation from settling.

The downsized mountain

We cross the basalt gate; as the wild formations fade, the mountain slope gradually softens. Higher up, the S▲ trail invites you, recommended to follow as it offers a resting spot on the ascent and gifts the most complete northern panorama on our hike. Along the way, through the tree branches, the meadow of the Stone Gate promenade shines; ahead, a railing appears. We reach a terrifyingly steep terrace offering views of the Tapolca Basin and its hills, as well as the surrounding landscape. The witness hills rise like tiny green islands, with vineyard stripes, cellars, holiday homes, and long tree alleys adding color.

Two quarry walls break the mountain’s side: mining began in the early 20th century, initially collecting naturally fallen rock. Later, mechanization expanded mining after the Tapolca railway line was completed, breaking the mountain’s substance transported by cable car to nearby railway stations and crushing plants. The hard, layered basalt responsible for Badacsony’s shape was a prime raw material for cobblestones, carved here more than anywhere else in Hungary before World War II. As quarrying proceeded inward, workers reached sandy sediments left from the Pannon Lake and volcanic debris rings; after several attempts, it was clarified that the sought basalt layer forms the mountain above approx. 300 meters. Difficulties arose because the miner-selected northern side had the last scoria, vesicular layers above approx. 400 meters, economically unusable, making work complicated and more expensive.

Until its closure in 1965, 12 million tons of basalt “shrank” the mountain. The workers’ background is equally intriguing. Between 1949 and 1954, prisoners labeled enemies or unreliable by the Rákosi regime and military forced laborers quarried the stone, hosting their camp in a quarry yard. A memorial plaque and some ruins in one Tomaj quarry area highlight this dark historical heritage.

Hike on the basalt plateau

After your reflection, return to the K trail - the top of Badacsony offers many sights and interesting points. The witness hill’s island character is evident everywhere: beech woods appear, elsewhere giant oaks, root-entwined path sections, and dark rock towers appear on the edge of the mountain. The landscape here contrasts sharply with that below or neighboring hills as this narrow plateau already has its own microclimate and strongly distinctive atmosphere. The Kisfaludy lookout’s panorama enhances this contrast.

Our path climbs increasingly, sometimes with exhausting steep sections, until we reach the local “top” at 438 meters on the K▲ trail: Badacsony. The poet who inspired the Kisfaludy lookout’s name actively contributed to the mountain’s fame alongside Keszthely and Füred. He even bought a press house on its side and met his wife and muse, Róza Szegedy, at a harvest here.

Following steps, you reach just above the canopy level, but vegetation (and tower structure) slightly interfere with the otherwise prime panorama. For a sizable stretch, the lake’s northern shore is clearly outlined, shaped by hills creating wide bays and flattening land tongues. Opposite runs the southern edge straight. Carrying the gaze over the Káli Basin, a last glance at all witness hills and the Tapolca Basin is possible; other directions are hidden by forest.

Leaving the lookout, you must return to the K trail, crossing the summit: here we walk in the shade of beeches favoring cool, moist air, usually growing higher up, in dense forest rich in dead wood. Near the small plateau center, an abandoned stone shelter stands by the road, an important spot on the hike: we don’t turn left onto the Blue Trail but continue straight on the wide, unmarked path. Soon the K trail returns; descending briefly, then a small climb, we reach another structure: Badacsony’s edge at the Egry József lookout station. At its base is a neglected but panoramic rain shelter (also a bivouac), topped by a box seat due to the sharply falling mountain side perspective. Below, the vineyards and holiday homes lead our eyes beyond the narrow strip to the lake’s mirror and the distant hills of Fonyód on the other side - the background is the Somogy region hills shrouded in mist. Sunset will likely paint all of these golden by the hike’s end. Egry József, the lookout’s namesake, focused his central themes on the Balaton landscape; the avant-garde painter is buried in Badacsonytomaj.

Descent

We seek the next and last mountain viewpoint on the K trail, this time heading back down the path. At the fork of the unmarked path, we turn right following the signs, walking under substantial ancient trees on stony soil towards the plateau edge. Stairs built from basalt lead up to Páholykő beside the Hertelendy memorial, whose name perfectly reflects the location.

From the rock terrace, we can view the Ábrahámhegy and Révfülöp shore sections, and also the opposite side. (Hertelendy József, immortalized on the basalt plaque, was known around the turn of the 19th–20th centuries as an advocate for the development of lakeside settlements, especially for railway construction.)

Here we leave the K trail and descend on a long stairway on the K▲ trail cutting steeply down the hillside. The rocky overhang disappears, and we arrive within the vineyard strip, amid holiday homes and inns. We bypass the Rose Stone block, which the mountain threw off, only for humans to weave mythical tales around it: allegedly Róza Szegedy and Sándor Kisfaludy loved to watch the still unobstructed view from here, and the superstition says if a couple sits on the stone with their backs to Lake Balaton holding hands, they will marry within the year. Its name is also borne by a local grape variety and wine.

The hiking path follows streets and thanks to the loosely structured settlement subordinated to vineyards, the panorama appears frequently. Descending, we circle a row of houses and reach the buffet, the end of our lengthy hike, at the railway station. The nearby area includes the boat station and the bus stop.