Circular hike on the Bükk plateaus

Itinerary

• We start from Garadna heading west on the S+ trail.
• After the tufa waterfall we ascend on the S trails up to the plateau's asphalt strip.
• Turning right, we continue along the P◼ trails towards the Sebesvíz guesthouse.
• After the Disznós spring, we turn right onto the P trails and hike to the Bükkszentlélek connecting road, passing Jávorkút, Csipkéskút, and Bánkút.
• Staying on the paved road towards Miskolc, we walk 300 meters on an unsigned section.
• Turning left onto the K+ trail, we make a detour to the rocks of Látókövek.
• Returning on the same trails, we walk back to Bükkszentlélek.
• We switch left to the P trails and hike up to the entrance of the Golden Staircase.
• We descend back to Garadna on the S+ trail.

Detailed description of the hike

Garadna

Our starting point, Garadna, has been a significant destination in the Bükk mountains for generations; even weekends see many visitors here. Its main attraction is the terminal station of the Lillafüred State Forest Railway (LÁEV).

Construction of the Szinva Valley Forest Railway began in 1920, taking on the name Lillafüred State Forest Railway in 1929, still used today. Originally built for transporting Bükk raw materials, passenger transport started early on. This demand intensified with the opening of Palotaszálló and remained steady in the second half of the 20th century. Luckily, most of the network was spared dismantling after freight service ended, unlike many other mountain railways in Hungary. Today, you can still travel in a special way by forest railway in the Bükk, making Garadna a worthwhile start or end point.

Along the Sebesvíz

From the bus stop, we head towards Őmassa following the S+ trail. Leaving behind the forest settlement and the forest railway terminal, we cross the concrete bridge over the stream and continue on the old Bánkút asphalt road. Shortly, we reach the Sebesvíz bridge, then turn left into the valley.

We climb steeply through the gorge up to the springs. The fast-flowing, steep-gradient Bükk stream carves a short, wild canyon into the plateau slope, making a real adventure to traverse. In rainy weather or during snowmelt, the roaring water provides a memorable hike. Crossing the rocky bed over the deposited debris, we reach the edge trail. In this lush valley, we soon encounter the special feature of the Sebesvíz: the tufa step formations precipitated from karst water. The stream here spreads out, splitting into several branches with small waterfalls. The freshwater limestone, also called darázskő, forms crusts over fallen leaves and branches, creating fantastic shapes.

At the top of the waterfall, a bridge on the left allows crossing over the stream, giving a view of this impressive natural formation from the other side as well. From here, we continue on the S trail past the spring caves. These caves channel water from the sinks spread above us on the Bükk plateau, feeding the Garadna via the Sebesvíz.

We climb quickly over the valley head rocks, passing through a very dense, primeval forest-like section among ash and beech trees.

Across the Great Plateau

At the top, we reach the Jávorkút asphalt road and at the nearby junction turn right onto the P◼ marked connecting road. A dammed fishing lake and barrier mark the boundary of the Sebesvíz guesthouse area. Along the two-part water surface shore, there is accommodation open year-round with a restaurant where you can dine.

Turning left before the main building, we enter a dirt road. Through a section with strudel groves, beech trees, and pines, we pass the Disznós spring feeding the lake. Near a sinkhole junction, we turn right onto the P trails. On a gentle ascent through a lovely beech forest, we walk on Kühne Andor trail. Named after a former Borsodi Bükk Association board member who dedicated decades to nature conservation, the grateful posterity named this Sebesvíz-Jávorkút road section after him.

Walking on flat terrain, the grey trunks are replaced by pine green. We cross an electric cable corridor and then meander through the extensive Bolhási pine woodland. A few steps to our left is the Bolhási-zsomboly sinkhole cave, a deep shaft cave in the plateau surface. The rain and meltwaters reaching this point flow into the Garadna after passing through a limestone cave system. On the right side of the trail in a resin-scented forest reminiscent of the Carpathian Mountains, we find the memorial stone of the trail’s namesake, reached by a short path.

Sinks in the pine forest

Soon, we can make a detour left to the intermittently active sinks of the Siren Cave. Developed by enthusiastic speleologists in the 1950s and ’60s, these deep sinks on the Bükk plateau were explored to track water flow paths inside the mountain and where the water reemerges at the surface. Using a special water tracer dye (fluorescein), they released it into a given shaft and monitored the springs for its appearance even hours later, mapping inner cave systems and connections over many years.

Pine forests have long been part of the plateau’s landscape. Though not native, large areas were planted with conifers during the 19th century replacing clearances and beech woods. Near Jávorkút, one famous pine forest originated from seeds brought from Sweden in 1887.

Unfortunately, climate change effects such as uneven precipitation distribution, rising average temperatures, and more frequent storms do not favor these former forests in central highlands. For now, we still enjoy the resin scent of rustling slender pines, but their survival prospects may diminish.

Jávorkút and Csipkéskút

We reach the meadow near Jávorkút lake, where small settlement buildings and resting spots appear. We walk out to the asphalt road and can take water from the well-like depression of the spring giving the place its name. The brook, named after an old term for maple, is one of the plateau’s few liquid water sources. Not coincidentally, the hunting lodge of the then prime minister István Bethlen was built here in the 1920s, now operating as a restaurant (other buildings serve as accommodations). Situated at 685 meters altitude, well maintained, Jávorkút is an excellent refreshment stop before continuing.

Following the P trails, after a forestry house, we leave the asphalt and proceed through the famous old pine forest towards Csipkéskút. The 8-hectare pine forest planted in 1876 still has many impressive, almost 150-year-old giant trees. It is fascinating to be among them. As they planted a mixed forest at the time, large beeches mingle among the green branches. Unfortunately, the tree health is declining, signaled by dead trunks fallen due to drying, which we cross several times on the uphill forest path.

Leaving behind the primeval forest section, we wander through the sparser grey-silver world of mountain ashes in the beech forest. Reaching the summit, previous logging cleared the view, allowing a good sight of surrounding peaks including the ball-shaped military radar station on Felső-Borovnyák. Passing a renewal area, we step onto a gravel road and after crossing an electric air line corridor arrive at the fence of the Csipkéskút stud farm. The famous Lipizzaner horse breed is raised here, chosen because the Bükk plateau provides the most favorable environment resembling the original habitat. The horses are born in Szilvásvárad at the Ménesgazdaság center and are raised at Csipkéskút until age three. Following tradition, they spend most of the day outdoors grazing on surrounding meadows. It is a wonderful sight to see the running, grazing herd.

Direction Bánkút

We continue ascending on a wide gravel road and turn left onto a path near a small limestone quarry. The quarried stone was formerly used for lime-burning; the forest floor still shows pits from old kilns. We encounter a much larger natural hollow arriving at the Csipkési sinkhole cave basin. This karst feature is a so-called backflow, meaning a surface stream ends abruptly at the cave’s mouth. It is clearly visible that the upstream stream valley ends here. Known locally as submerged stream blind valleys, this shape forms when a spring feeds outside the karstic bedrock, creating a valley which then disappears underground upon reaching limestone.

Walking further through magical beeches, we see table-shaped hollows on the left side of the path. Most of these depressions formed by surface dissolution, sometimes creating series. Slightly farther on the low ridge lies the entrance of the Lyukas-gerinci sinkhole, a near-summit shaft cave. Now inactive due to environmental degradation causing position changes, the cave lost its water supply from a formerly abundant pleistocene catchment. Nearby is the Betyár Cave, whose beautiful dripstone chamber was traditionally said to be a bandits’ hideout.

We cross the Bánkút asphalt and descend past the tops of ski slopes. At the pasture base, the tourist house building appears. We arrive at the mountain resort by the White Eagle guesthouse, a large renovation of the 1931 Bánkút tourist accommodation. From here, a 900-meter detour along the Z trail leads to the Petőfi lookout tower on top of Bálvány where you can enjoy a magnificent 360° panorama.

Turning right, we head to the Bánkút Tourist House building built in the 1960s, where we can rest. Next to it we find the intermittent spring of Bán-kút, ideally for taking water.

At nearly 900 meters altitude, Bánkút became nationally known for winter sports, with the paved road brought here to support tourism. The area is also notable geologically and geomorphologically, marking the border zone between the Great and Little Plateaus and the Northern Bükk. This edge of the plateau, sharply divided by the Garadna and the Dry Valley, meets the northern and western flowing valley heads, part of the Northern Bükk.

We continue walking on the P trail along the connecting road to the asphalt strip leading to Miskolc. Crossing the solid pavement and after the usual beeches, we enter pine forest again.

Across the Little Plateau

The Czekus Trail leads through one of the mountain’s most beautiful forests. Miklós Czekus, an indefatigable naturalist and explorer of the Bükk, gives his name to the Bánkút-Bükkszentlélek section, his favorite route. Alongside pines planted on the side of Nyárjú Hill, we stroll again in a Carpathian atmosphere and decorations, on an easy level path. This stage is a real joyful hike among mixed beech-pine woods.

We skirt Nyárjú Hill from the south and face the descending ridge. Over younger forest stands, Miskolc housing estates appear, and about 65 km away, Kopasz Hill and the southern range of the Tokaj Mountains offer a panorama. Among larger rocks we recognize old lime kiln hollows typical of similar places in the Bükk.

We step back onto the road and shortly after the trail calls us into forest again, to circle the Farkas Neck junction and return to the asphalt. This is a side road leading to Mályinka, branching from a key saddle in Bükk transport.

Turning right onto the path leading to Csikorgó ridge, we walk among old beeches. The rocky, devil’s furrow ridge sometimes offers a view: watching the Bükk ridge and Sajó valley area. The ridge’s name traces back to the early days of hiking when the nails of spiked boots made noises reminiscent of creaking on the cliffs.

We descend to the Szentlélek paved road and continue walking along it. Although the trail descends to the resort, we remain for 300 meters on the (unsigned) country road. We bypass the Tourist Park providing accommodation and turn left to the K+ path. Passing between two intertwined beech roots, we enter forest again and descend to the edge of the Little Plateau at the Látókövek (Lookout Stones). Climbing to the top of the cliff, we enjoy a magnificent view. Below us are the foothill villages and the mounds of the Upponyi Mountains, including the Lázbérc Reservoir. The deep incision of the Csondró valley is well visible between the Odvas and Kemesnye-kő rock ridges. Beyond the Sajó valley rises the Gömör-Tornai karst, and the Carpathians’ ranges ripple as far as the eye can see. On clear days, the jagged crest of the High Tatras also appears.

Szentlélek

After enjoying the view, we hike in the opposite direction on the K+ trail towards nearby Szentlélek. This beautiful mountainous suburb of Miskolc is notable for the ruins of a medieval Pauline monastery. The order received the area in 1313, but hermits and their monastery are mentioned from the previous century. After a long function, the small cloister became deserted and began to decay by the early Turkish era. Built far from settlements, its stones were not scattered; thus, significant parts remain today. It is worth walking beneath the gothic walls and imagining the secluded, wild life of the monks then.

Szentlélek became a tourism hub early on, with the first hiking trail from Diósgyőr, and in 1932 a shelter built later named after the polymath Ottó Herman. The building now serves as a guesthouse, Szentléleki Fogadó, with a restaurant sometimes serving hikers.

We leave following the P trail towards Nyírjes meadow. Once the monastery garden, monks also dammed a pond here. Today two aging old buildings attract our attention as we circle the meadow. Through a pine patch, we continue on the branching P● trail on Köpüs Hill side to the nearby stream of Köpüs spring.

A few minutes later, we reach the entrance of the Három-kúti valley, where we turn right to the S+ trail and begin the last part of our hike descending to Garadna.

Down to Garadna via the Golden Staircase

We descend steeply through a beautiful beech forest on many rocky sections and rock outcrops. This part of the valley head is called the Golden Staircase - the name relates to the rocks. Legend says the daughter of the count of Szentlélek fell in love with a young servant officer. The nobleman consented to the socially unequal marriage only if the young man built a golden staircase from Lake Hámor to the castle. The staircase – not made of gold – was finally built, with remnants still visible today. Though neither the castle nor the count really existed, the narrow deeply cut valley really looks as if rounded rock blocks were purposefully arranged in steps.

Soon, we pass the outflow of Kápa spring and follow the small brook. This part of Három-kúti valley is a bit more adventurous due to earlier fallen trees: winding through thickets and trunk-strewn earth. We cross the stream and can visit the Tourist Memorial Park 500 meters away on the left K+ trail, featuring monuments to significant figures of Hungarian nature hiking.

Finally, on the streamside path, we reach the Ómassa state road along Garadna, turning right to arrive back at the starting point. Some drinks and snacks at the Mókus Odú buffet will be welcome. For further travel, it is advisable to take the forest railway and explore the other attractions of the Garadna valley (e.g. Ancient Smelter, Trout Farm, Lake Hámor, Lillafüred).