Beyond Örsi Hill

Itinerary

• From the Folly Arboretum we follow the P marking to the summit.
• On the side of Ábrahám Hill, at an unmarked path at a signposted intersection, we change to a trail where we walk 200 meters on foot to the intersection with the P marking.
• After reaching the P marking again, we turn left on it and follow the hiking trail past the Salföld Pálos monastery ruins back to the Folly Arboretum.

Detailed description of the hike

Badacsonyörs, belonging to Badacsonytomaj, lies on the western and southern foot of the distinctly prominent Örsi Hill, which is only 311 m high. As typical for the northern shores of Lake Balaton, vineyards and holiday homes cover the gentle mountain foot, wrapping around the steep peak like a skirt. At the southern slope of the hill, we find the Folly Arboretum, expanded with a restaurant and winery, which is not only the starting and ending point of our route but also an attraction not to be missed. Before exploring the botanical rarities alongside numerous recreational opportunities offered by the arboretum, let's complete the route starting from the parking lot by following the P marking.

From asphalt to the grove

After setting off, we follow the P marking on the asphalt of Kápolnavölgyi Road, with the Badacsony range towering ahead. We soon stop enjoying the dominating view and turn onto Hegyalja Road, then start a steep ascent on Klastrom Street alongside the arboretum's fence up to Ábrahám Hill. Though strenuous, the climb opens panoramic views over Lake Balaton and to the opposite shore with the 'mountains' of Fonyód.

At the upper part of the arboretum, we leave the settlement behind and the asphalt road ends; from here the path winds along long-abandoned gardens. A couple of ruined wine presses, stone piles marking property boundaries, and wild cultivated plants create a slightly dystopian or, if you like, wild romantic atmosphere. After reaching the saddle of Ábrahám Hill, the acacia grove gradually changes to an oak forest. From here on, we traverse almost level terrain northeastwards along a wide cart track bordered by mossy 'stone mushrooms'.

We continue a few meters off the P marking, crossing an unmarked section onto the hiking trail from Ábrahám Hill, leading to one of the area's most notable medieval landmarks. (A sign at the junction points to the Salföld monastery ruins.)

Having soon rejoined the P marking, we turn left and descend along the trail into the highly protected, tranquil Klastrom Valley behind Örsi Hill. In the heart of this beautiful grove lies the former monastery and church ruins of the Pauline monks, with a cozy atmosphere making it a major tourist attraction of the Balaton region.

The ruins of the Salföld Pauline monastery

Deep in the forest suddenly appears the remains of the only Hungarian-founded monastic order's monastery and church. The exact date of construction is unknown; the Pauline monks expanded and rebuilt an earlier church according to their own needs. Since a 14th-century charter mentions it as the Köveskút monastery, it is also called Köveskút.

Dedicated to Mary Magdalene, the monastery and church were built in the Gothic style; the church ruins have survived in better condition with arched windows and vaults. Only the foundations of the monastery remain, housing the stone well. The monastery's history lasted until the Turkish times; in the 18th-19th centuries, during Salföld's reconstruction, its stones were scattered and a dam was built on the nearby stream.

The complex likely was destroyed in the mid-16th century during the Turkish invasion. It stood abandoned for centuries; during the 18th-19th-century reconstruction of Salföld, many stones were removed. At this time, the water-retaining dam belonging to the monastery, built on the nearby Burnót stream by the monks, was also demolished. The current state of the church and monastery ruins and the rest area here were developed in the mid-2000s; since then, it has been a popular tourist spot.

In the “rock garden” of the hill

From the monastery, we start a steep climb again: our path initially rises through young acacia trees, then among mature oaks to the saddle between Csönge and Örsi Hill, where we join the route of the Balaton Blue Trail. We continue to follow the P marking along the inner northern side of the semicircular rim of Örsi Hill. There are no views here, but from here on we can enjoy a comfortable descent through a peaceful grove dotted with moss-covered stones until we reach the previously walked section of the P mark on the side of Ábrahám Hill.

Örsi Hill, rising above Badacsonyörs at 311 m, is unique in that unlike the surrounding Badacsony, Tóti Hill, or Gulács, it is built of sedimentary rocks, conglomerate, and sandstone rather than basalt. The geological history began 270 million years ago when river waters from the south transported debris here over millions of years. Gravel and boulders accumulated, forming the Balaton Uplands sandstone.

Another interesting fact about Örsi Hill is that uranium exploration took place here from 1955. The former mine is still accessible on the hillside and marked on the map. However, the research did not identify industrially exploitable uranium deposits.

We continue following the P marking, now returning to our starting point along the route first encountered at the beginning of our hike. The winding path on the slope of Ábrahám Hill once again reveals the wild remnants of former gardens reclaimed by acacia growth, then leads us along the asphalt path to the arboretum entrance. This time, the walk is much more enjoyable as we descend steeply, enjoying the panoramic views.

Don't miss the arboretum!

At the end of the hike, be sure to visit the Mediterranean atmosphere of the Folly Arboretum, established by Dr. Gyula Folly, a doctor from Pécs, at the beginning of the 20th century, with the planting of non-native species. The original collection forms the core of the today's Old Arboretum, and the same family operates the plant garden filled with cedars and cypresses, where a restaurant and winery have also opened.

The park caters to children as well: a playground, a mini adventure park, and shaded resting places have been built, and at the highest point of the area, a twisted pine cone-shaped lookout tower offers magnificent views of Lake Balaton and the neighboring Badacsony. The family enterprise now includes its own confectionery and offers special syrups and teas for sale. The arboretum area is not large (5 ha), but this makes it easy to walk through.