Beautiful view: The essence of Zemplén

Itinerary

• From the center of the settlement Középhuta, follow the S sign uphill to the Mlaka meadow. From there, continue right along the S▲ sign to Sólyom-bérc, then return to the Mlaka meadow.
• The next viewpoint can be reached eastward on the K sign. After about 2 kilometers, turn left and continue on the K▲ sign to Kerek-kő, then return to the Mlaka meadow.
• The third viewpoint is located west of the meadow, about 2.5 kilometers on the K sign, then turn right to follow the K▲ sign leading to the Nagy-Péter-mennykő lookout. From there, the goal is again the Mlaka meadow, and from there back to Középhuta on the S sign.

Detailed description of the route

The three impressive points: Sólyom-bérc, Kerek-kő, and Nagy-Péter-mennykő were formed around the Ice Age, when water seeping into rock cracks and fissures froze and broke off large pieces from the volcanic rock. Steep walls and towers slowly developed over the valleys.

The route starts from Középhuta, which lies deep in the mountain range but is accessible by car. From this small settlement of only a few houses, the hiking trail marked S leads up a 250-meter elevation gain climb to the Mlaka meadow about three kilometers away.

I first guessed the name Mlaka meadow comes from the Slavic word mleko, meaning milk, as cows graze on the meadow. But as revealed by an older issue of Magyar Nyelvőr, mlaka has a Hungarian equivalent, maláka, which used to mean puddle (so I was right about the Slavic origin). So, Mlaka meadow means Puddly meadow.

Very close to the meadow on the southwest branch of the S▲ sign is Sólyom-bérc (564 m). After a small ascent, we reach the gate of the peak: a rock slab standing proudly. There you can already expect an extraordinary view.

The main panorama direction is west and southwest, overlooking the valley of the Huta-völgyi creek and the parallel mountain ridge, and in the distance the silhouette of the ruins of Regéc castle. On the steep wall of the ridge are climbing routes. No noise, no road, no settlement—nothing disturbs the landscape.

To reach the next point, you must return to the Mlaka meadow, where the hiking trail marked S coming from Középhuta intersects with the National Blue Trail. About 2.5 kilometers eastwards along the blue trail is Kerek-kő. While the previous viewpoint opened up the inner valleys and mountains toward the southwest, Kerek-kő offers views mainly to the north and northeast. Forest-covered ridges, valleys, and peaks roll before your eyes, and opposite the viewpoint rises one of the most interestingly named mountains, the 400-meter Jaj-hegy-tető.

From here, the Mlaka meadow, our central junction, is again the destination. From there, heading west on the K sign, the Istvánkút tourist lodge is only a kilometer away, one of the most wild forest accommodations in Hungary. If someone doesn’t want to complete the 20 km hike covering the three most beautiful viewpoints in one day, they should stay here.

For those wanting to complete the viewpoints in one day, there are still 2.5 kilometers on the K sign to the Nagy-Péter-mennykő, the most breathtaking rock viewpoint of the three.

Starting from the lodge, you must cross a unique, strictly protected birch grove. The lodge (formerly a forester’s house) surroundings were once a mountain hay meadow, above which lies a birch grove. This scenery is what makes the birch grove beautiful and unique.

To reach Nagy-Péter-mennykő, turn right off the K sign following the K▲ sign, which first crosses a meadow and then leads out of the forest via a gentle climb. Behind the last trees emerges the vast space opening before us at the viewpoint; even so, the view is almost overwhelming.

Nagy-Péter-mennykő (709 m) is located about 200 meters higher than both Kerek-kő and Sólyom-bérc, so the vista is also more extensive. To the north is the peak of Nagy-Milic, beyond which lies Slovakia. Under good visibility conditions, you can see all the way to the Vihorlát mountain ridge.

I could not find an exact explanation for the name of Nagy-Péter-mennykő, but at a similar place in southern Transdanubia, it was written that the area was often struck by lightning, as the colloquial name "mennykő" means thunderbolt or lightning. This is no wonder because lightning often strikes the protruding, high rock terraces’ trees in the mountain ranges.

The viewpoint is the furthest point of the route. From here, the path returns via the Istvánkúti birch grove and the Mlaka meadow back to Középhuta.

(The text was published on Index.hu.)