At the border of Göcsej and Őrség

Itinerary:

• The K+ trail leads from Zalalövő train station to the edge of the town.
• We make a short detour south along the K trail, from which the K● trail guides to the Szentkút.
• Returning to the K trail, we leave Zalalövő heading west. We follow the K trail up to Felsőcsöde.
• From Felsőcsöde to Pankasz, we cross on the K+ trail.
• From the train station, after a short detour, we continue on the K+ trail, then turn right onto an unmarked path to reach the skirted bell tower of Pankasz.

About the hike in detail

Roman-rooted Zalalövő and the Borosán Valley Szentkút

Starting from the Zala riverbank, from the Zalalövő train station adorned with a towered wooden structure, we follow the K+ trail. After a short warm-up section, we exit the town by crossing the tracks at the Zala bridge. Although for a short stretch we still wind between houses, here we are already in the part of the settlement called Pörgölin. A characteristic of the settlements of Zala, especially the Göcsej villages, is that they are divided into small parts, called sections or 'szeges', named after the noble estates established by families who settled there throughout history.

Although the history of Zalalövő dates back to ancient times, because the natural transport hub was already guarded by the Romans, who built a fortress and even a palace here. This was due to the Amber Road connecting the Baltic and Adriatic seas crossing here, intersecting the Zala valley road leading to the inner lands of Pannonia. The Romans owned this area between the 1st and 4th century AD, and the settlement had defensive significance even after the Hungarian conquest. A charter from the Árpád era states that the king's archers inhabited the settlement, from which its name is derived. In the Middle Ages, it became a market town with market rights, frequented by people from the Zala valley as well as the neighboring Kerka region for trade.

We begin our hike along the old road leading towards Hetés, making a short detour south on the K and K● trails of the South Transdanubian Blue Trail to the Borosán Valley Szentkút. We climb between houses on the opposite hillside and, reaching the forest, turn right to a small valley basin about one hundred meters away. First, we encounter the calvary surrounding the spring, from where stairs lead down to a forest sanctuary shaded by old beech trees. According to the inscription, the shrine was erected by believers freed from World War II, where the figure of Saint Mary guards the spring’s source. Between the two world wars, scout meetings were held here and it became a pilgrimage site during the feast of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary at the beginning of July and in September. The large beech trunks bending toward us indeed resemble a gothic cathedral, where only the filtered light of the setting summer sun can enter. It is worth looking around more carefully on the lush vegetated valley bottom and tuning in to the forests. Unfortunately, the spring only flows during rainy periods, so do not always count on water availability.

Returning to the Pörgölin part of the settlement, we soon exit among the houses on a wide gravel road winding westwards along the K trail. At one point, the path deviates onto a shortcut cutting the road’s bend but eventually climbs up to the vineyard hill of Pacsa. We walk the last few meters leading to the hilltop among neat houses, charming orchards, and vineyards. A characteristic element of the Göcsej region is the vineyard hill surrounding the settlements, where men traditionally went after work to labor, socialize, and chat. Here have survived the oldest elements of old life, such as timber-framed log houses typical of the region. We pass several of these, sometimes grouped together discussing old times with heads brought close. Under an impressive pear tree, a bulletin board hangs, inviting local vintners to a wine tasting event.

On the border of two counties, in the forests of Őrvidék

We turn out of the vineyard houses among flower-carpeted farms to finally blend into the vast forest of Zala. We cross almost to the end of our path through mixed oak, beech, and hornbeam forests. First near the edge of arable lands, then winding on forest paths dotted with small clearings. The terrain changes barely, and we move almost entirely at the same elevation. Only sometimes water erosion begins toward the Zala river. We cross the largest one, a marshy stream, and climbing the opposite hillside arrive at the sleepy small village of Felsőcsöde. Here we find a few houses, farms, and an inn, with its quiet main street announcing the calm of the region and rural idyll.

Crossing the asphalt strip, we turn onto the K+ trail. Leaving the settlement at a farm, accompanied by the gazes of grazing animals on a wide field, we blend once more into the forest atmosphere typical of the area. We cross a striking number of native pine forests, which are native here in contrast to most of the country. It is worth moving quietly on forestry roads, as the surrounding woods are home to many wild animals. With a bit of luck, we may see roe deer, deer, and wild boars moving through the bushy forest.

With the alternation of forest plots, an almost monotonous bulldozer road reaches the edge of an emerging valley head at the county border. After crossing into Vas County, the previously straight track meanders freely descending back to the Zala river flow. We arrive at the Zala following an old hornbeam-oak forest, following a deepening creek incision. Here the small watercourse poses little obstacle to crossing, but we are spared from that by a fragile plank bridge laid on the unstable rail track, enabling us to cross over the Zala dry-footed and high above it.

The gate to Őrség, the thatched skirted bell tower of Pankasz

Passing a log yard, we reach the sports field of Pankasz, where we cross the international railway line again. We could end the hike here on the far side, but it is worth walking a few hundred meters more to the village's landmark, the skirted bell tower. From here we continue almost straight on the K+ trail, from which we turn right onto an unmarked path in an orchard. The thatched wooden structure stands on the upper part of the wooded hillside, a striking symbol of the Őrség villages. According to the inscription, the wooden bell tower has stood here since the mid-1700s and was renovated in the second half of the 20th century. The local Reformed community could not afford a church, so only a bell tower called the harangláb called the villagers to prayer.

The skirt is made of straw-thatched roof, everything else on the building is wood. Its aesthetic joints, reinforcements, and structure strengthened with crossbeams testify to the craftsmanship of the masters of the time: it still stands solidly almost three centuries later. Under the bell tower, a blacksmith's workshop was also set up, brought here and renovated from beside the Denke creek dividing the village. In the attic of the characteristic jointed log building is the bellows that stokes the fire, presumably for economy. The adjacent courtyard with porch and barn also represents old times, traditional farming, and value system.

On the bench in front of the blacksmith's workshop, we can rest in the rays of the setting sun at the end of our hike while waiting for connection by train or bus. If we have enough time, we can also visit the local history collection in the village center or chat with the friendly, kind local people, experiencing the atmosphere of the region more deeply.