Cycling wandering around Bratislava, along the Danube and the Morava

Itinerary

• On the bike path under the Most SNP in Bratislava, head west, that is towards Vienna.
• Upon reaching the Austrian border, continue on the well-marked route following the signs labeled Carnuntum-Schlosshof-Bratislava Tour all the way to Devínska Nová Ves.
• The route first passes through Wolfsthal, then arrives at Hainburg along excellent quality paved agricultural roads, where it leads through small streets onto a bike path along the Danube.
• After leaving Hainburg, the route crosses the Danube's left bank via the Andreas Maurer bridge, then follows the dyke briefly towards Vienna.
• At the first settlement, near Stopfenreuth, leave the dyke by sharply turning back, then continue through the village streets following signs towards Engelhartstetten. After passing through this village, proceed along a path next to a small stream and through fields to reach the Schlosshof park and then the castle itself.
• A straight road leads from the castle to Devínska Nová Ves (Devínská Nová Ves), crossing the Morava River via the Freedom Bridge. At the foot of the bridge, turn left sharply, then again left, passing under the bridge.
• The bike path along the Morava leads straight to Devín, then circumnavigates the castle hill to join the road leading back to Bratislava.
• To leave the busy road in Bratislava, turn right onto a bike path, which then winds along the Danube to the Lafranconi bridge, from where riding on the wide promenade leads to the Slovak National Uprising Bridge (Most SNP). Crossing this bridge brings you back to the starting point of the route.

Detailed Description of the Route

You can start the journey by visiting the UFO in Bratislava, as parking is generally available under the Most SNP bridge. The UFO is the panoramic café atop the bridge’s pylon and can be reached by a lift (ticket required), offering views over the entire city. On the far side of the Danube, behind the old town, lie the Little Carpathian mountain ranges, which offer numerous hiking and bike trails for tourists.

This time, we start along the Danube bike path heading toward Berg, the former border crossing. Bratislava lies at the tripoint of Hungary, Slovakia, and Austria—nearby villages such as Rajka, Wolfsthal, and Hainburg are more considered part of Bratislava’s agglomeration than Vienna’s. What is an advantage today was once a disadvantage, as evidenced by a memorial site created from a bunker a little before the border. The bunker (Museum B-S 4), part of the pre-World War II Czechoslovak defense system around Bratislava, is currently operated by a military tradition preservation group along with three other fortifications in Bratislava-Petržalka. It is open on Saturdays between April and October, and the current guardians speak not only Slovak, making it worthwhile to stop by.

The border is now just a jump away, and upon entering Austria, cyclists feel like they have entered another world—large cycling info boards and numerous signs for bike tours welcome unsuspecting tourists. On our chosen route, just follow the signs labeled Carnuntum-Schlosshof-Bratislava Tour—getting lost is almost impossible.

Celts, Romans, Habsburgs

We first pass through Wolfsthal, then approach Hainburg on the Danube bank between two hills. On the higher one (Braunsberg), there once stood a Celtic fortress, now marked only by a memorial plaque and a log guard tower of symbolic value. It’s worth making a little detour up the hill during the tour, as from its top you can see almost the entire route. At the southern tip is a plaque commemorating the difficult lives of the German-speaking citizens expelled from Czechoslovakia after World War II.

The line of fortress settlements along the former Pannonia province border continues with Gerulata, Carnuntum, and Petronell—Roman-era towns located today in Slovakia and Austria. Carnuntum formerly stood on the site of present-day Hainburg an der Donau, guarding the limes. After the Hungarian conquest, the fortress on the hill opposite Braunsberg was twice under Hungarian control: first until 1042 (when III Henry, Holy Roman Emperor, took it from Samuel Aba), and briefly at the end of Matthias's reign. The Habsburgs took the castle in 1278. The bike path along the Danube is a pleasant promenade but avoids the town center. The peaceful small town shows no signs of history’s storms: the large garrison has left, the former tobacco factory is now a cultural center, and even the large preserved city gate (Wienertor) still stands firm.

We continue along the right bank of the Danube towards the bridge at the border of Bad Deutsch-Altenburg. Here you can make a short detour to the Roman fortress of Petronell. In addition to the ruins of the ancient town, the 13,000-seat amphitheater and triumphal arch deserve special mention. Even if you don’t visit the site, a visually striking church near the bridge beckons a short detour from the route. The predecessor of the Maria Church likely dates back to the time of Saint Stephen, was destroyed around 1050, and the present beautiful three-nave building combines Romanesque and Gothic features surrounded by a small cemetery, creating a unique atmosphere.

The Duke, The Widow, and The Son

We continue along the left bank of the Danube: after crossing the nearby bridge, the bike path follows the river dyke. Near the village of Stopfenreuth, pay attention because the bike route continues towards Vienna over a small bridge, while our route turns 180 degrees and leads along the dyke into the village. A nearby inn invites a rest, with bike parking and apparently excellent food on offer (we only had coffee). After passing through the village, the path continues across the fields. At the edge of the next village, Engelhartstetten, another inn appears, and upon reaching a stream, the path follows the stream dyke briefly, then crosses an old bridge and continues towards Schlosshof.

The large baroque castle can be reached by leaving the asphalt road onto a forest trail (though one of the entrances can also be approached via the asphalt). The estate was purchased in 1725 by Prince Eugene of Savoy, well known from Hungarian history, and he transformed it into its present form within five years. The rapidly advancing soldier participated in the liberation of Vienna from the Turks in 1683, the recapture of Buda in 1686, and the Battle of Zenta in 1697—this last as commander of the forces against the Turks. These are just the most important battles in Hungary he participated in! The exhibition inside the castle tells his whole life story. The inventive display narrates the story of the property from the perspectives of its three successive owners: Eugene of Savoy, Maria Theresa, and Joseph II.

After Eugene, the next owner was Maria Theresa, widowed in 1765, who conducted numerous renovations. The exhibition brings many details of Hungarian history to life, primarily incorporating international events (War of Austrian Succession, Seven Years’ War), but also showing Ratio Educationis regulating education in Hungary and the Urbarium regulation on serfdom conditions—provided that visitors can understand German, Slovak, or English. Maria Theresa’s son Joseph II visited the Schloss less during his short reign, leaving fewer alterations credited to him. The estate’s later history has some curiosities: during World War I, the walls housed the Imperial and Royal Naval Academy temporarily relocated from Fiume, and after 1945, the Red Army quartered there for ten years (during this time, Lower Austria was a Soviet occupation zone).

The baroque garden around the castle and the former economic buildings mainly offer pleasant activities for children: there is a petting zoo, playground, pottery workshop, and horse shows, for example.

The Morava, the Danube, and the Devín Hill

From the castle, we proceed straight to the Morava via the Freedom Bridge, linking Slovakia. Since its 2012 opening, this route has been available; before that, a stone bridge stood here in Maria Theresa’s time, which was repeatedly destroyed by drifting ice or wars, so for the last 130 years, crossing required a ferry or boat. Or not even that: after World War II, during the Cold War, a section of the Iron Curtain ran along the Morava, commemorated by a monument both at the playground near the bridge and in Devín. Locals apparently enjoy the new slender bridge, many walking or cycling across it daily.

Crossing this elegant bridge, we find ourselves on the Slovak side of the Morava in Devínska Nová Ves. At the foot of the bridge, you must immediately turn sharply left to reach the bike path running under the bridge. Near the bridge, a nice rest spot invites with draught Kofola (the “Slovak cola” has a controversial reputation but is very refreshing on a hot cycling day). A playground for children is set up among the trees, and there is even an e-bike charging station.

The route continues along the Morava bike path, bypassing the Devín hill towards Bratislava. We pass under the Sandberg—a hill famous for its Paleogene sandstone and limestone fossils, where remains of antelopes, rhinoceroses, cave bears, and mastodons have been found.

Soon we reach picturesque Devín (Devín): a rocky ledge at the confluence of the Morava and Danube rivers, crowned by the Devín castle. Celts and Romans previously erected fortifications here (foundations of a 5th-century Christian structure also remain). It was a Great Moravian fortress as well as a Hungarian border castle, later owned by noble families like the Garai, Báthory, and Pálffy. It was finally blown up during the Napoleonic Wars in 1809. Climbing among the ruins offers the best views of the two rivers. Explore the market spread out by the castle gate, which always has at least one stall selling currant wine—a local Devín specialty made from black and red berries, available in dry, semi-sweet, and sweet varieties, all satisfying.

The Coronation City

We reach Bratislava riding along the Danube, but unfortunately, for some stretch, the path follows a busy road. Before entering the truly urban and busy part below Karlova Ves districts, the bike path turns right from the main road, leading onto the wide Danube promenade that starts after the Lafranconi Bridge, bringing us into the heart of Bratislava. The Old Town starts at the foot of the Slovak National Uprising Bridge—it's advisable to lock your bikes here and explore a few blocks on foot.

The Gothic-style St. Martin's Cathedral (also known as the Coronation Church) is where 11 Hungarian kings, one queen, and seven queens were crowned between 1563 and 1830. From the cobbled streets, it’s worth heading towards the Michael's Gate (Michalská brána), with beautiful views of the Old Town from its tower. Climbing the stairs, you can even see a weapons exhibition for the interested. Then continue towards Franciscan Square (Františkánske námestie) to visit the Franciscan and Jesuit churches, and from there to the Main Square (Hlavné námestie), where the old town hall hosts an excellent city history exhibition and has a tower offering perhaps the best vantage point over the Old Town.

After exploring the center, it's recommended to get back on your bike and circle the Old Town, passing sights such as the Art Nouveau Blue Church, the pyramid-like modern Slovak Radio building on its peak, the presidential palace (also known as Grassalkovich Palace after its first owner), then head toward the castle. The Bratislava Castle is mostly interesting for its terrace that offers fine views of the Danube and the right bank suburbs, including the large residential area of Petržalka—which if it were independent, would be Slovakia’s third-largest city.

If you have more time, consider visiting other attractions slightly outside the main route: the Slavín monument on a hill above the city commemorates the 6,845 Soviet soldiers who fell during the liberation of Bratislava in 1945. Further away, on Hlboká cesta, you'll find a former quarry now serving as a peaceful sanctuary with incredibly many plaques of thanks on its walls; in the Little Carpathians, there is a cable car, numerous bike paths, and a TV tower lookout on the Zerge hill (Kamzík) awaiting visitors.