Bike corridor to the green of Buda along Ördög-árok

Itinerary

• From Clark Ádám tér, head north along the Danube, then turn left onto Kacsa utca following bike direction signs toward Hűvösvölgy!
• To visit the Városmajor church, at Széna tér take the bike path toward Széll Kálmán tér, then from the corner of Vérmező head again toward Hűvösvölgy on the bike path! From Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor, continue almost straight along the bike path (and Ördög-árok) until Hűvösvölgy.
• Upon reaching the outer houses of Hűvösvölgy, turn toward Solymár and follow the bike route through low-traffic streets to Máriaremete. From Máriaremete to Adyliget, no designated route exists, so be careful to turn into the correct small streets! The sequence is as follows: Hímes utca – Rigó utca – Ördögárok utca – Dutka Ákos utca – Tompa Mihály utca – Tamara utca – Táltos utca – Szent László utca – Kútföldi utca.
• From Adyliget to Remeteszőlős, cycle one kilometer along the road leading to Nagykovácsi, then from Remeteszőlős choose the parallel bike route to Nagykovácsi, which is advisable.

Detailed description of the ride

The choice of the starting point seems arbitrary as you could start almost anywhere within the capital. However, Clark Ádám tér is an attractive spot in itself with the Chain Bridge, Buda Castle Funicular, the tunnel, and of course the view of the Danube, and here you find the “0” kilometer stone. The three-meter-high simple yet expressive statue marks the starting point of most single-digit main roads (exceptions are routes 1 and 8, starting from the BAH junction and Székesfehérvár, respectively), and route 10 as well. The monument has several predecessors, with the immediate predecessor located in Rákoshegy near the train station.

Sights along the Danube bank

One cannot start the ride without mentioning other sights, beginning with the tunnel finished in 1857. One interesting fact is that the Chain Bridge's bridge master's service apartment and office are built into the end facing Clark Ádám tér. The structure under the Castle Hill took four years to build, and originally, two decades earlier, there were plans for connecting Pest and Buda from Krisztinaváros. This plan, considered unrealistic at the time, was discarded with the construction of the Chain Bridge, but after its completion, piercing through Castle Hill became a priority. The Danube crossing itself deserves mention. From today's perspective, it is maybe unbelievable, but the bridge completed in 1849 was the first permanent crossing over the entire Hungarian section of the Danube. The design and construction—like the tunnel—are credited to two English gentlemen, William T. Clark and Adam Clark, and of course István Széchenyi. Széchenyi, the “greatest Hungarian,” decided in the winter of 1820 to donate one year's income to build a bridge connecting Pest and Buda after he could not cross the river due to ice drift to travel to his father's funeral in Vienna. Apart from supporters, there were many opponents fearing erosion of the foundations and collapse or the accumulation of ice jams causing floods. Finally, construction was ordered in 1836 and lasted from 1842 to 1849. One could fill a book with the history of its construction, so let's get in the saddle and head to the Buda Hills!

Heading north along the Danube bank, there are many reasons to stop every meter, but resist temptation, or you will not reach the greenery in a full day. Still, the Danube panorama can be admired constantly while cycling, but be cautious of tourists too, since, somewhat inconveniently, a combined pedestrian and bike path leads along the embankment up to Batthyány tér. Along the way, the neo-Gothic brick Reformed church at Szilágyi Dezső tér designed by Samu Pecz decorated with Zsolnay tiles deserves mention (it was the second Reformed church in Buda). The market hall at Batthyány tér, the VIth large Budapest market hall, is also interesting primarily for its internal iron structure.

Prosecutor's office, prison, bath, foundry, clay pit

Leaving the Danube at Kacsa utca, temptation strikes at Fő utca to turn right or left off the route (this will happen several times until reaching Hűvösvölgy). To the left, a large strict building block catches the unsuspecting cyclist's eye: the side facing Fő utca now houses the Budapest District XI and XXII Prosecutor's Office, the Military Prosecutor's Office, and similar institutions, while the Gyorskocsi utca side is used by the penal system. Since its completion in 1922, it had many inhabitants both in literal and figurative senses: after the German occupation on March 19, 1944, the Gestapo and the SD (Security Service, German intelligence) briefly moved in, followed a bit later in 1951 by the State Protection Authority (ÁVH), and after 1956, it functioned again as a prosecutor's and courthouse building. In 1958, Imre Nagy was sentenced to death here along with several others. Numerous memorial plaques on the building's wall testify to these troubled times.

If you turn right onto Fő utca from the original route, you head toward calmer institutions. First, a few words on Király Bath: the not very exciting facade on Fő utca hides one of the few Turkish-era architectural relics. After the Turks occupied Buda, they soon established themselves here; the bath's construction started in 1565. The thermal water was already channeled here centuries ago from the thermal springs around Lukács Bath. Fortunately, the building, over 450 years old, still serves its original function. After the Turkish era, it was operated for long by the König family (hence the current name). The dressing rooms and corridors clearly last renovated in the 1970s give it a special atmosphere. A few blocks from here is the cradle of one of Hungary’s most successful industrial companies, Ganz, now the Ganz Ábrahám Foundry Museum. The modestly named building is a true rarity: the place from which the later world-famous Ganz factory was launched. Today, the residential houses of Víziváros surround the small factory building containing gigantic crucibles, elegant revolving cranes, and a giant cupola furnace showcasing the foundry’s masterpieces. After establishing fame in the mill and later railway industry, Ábrahám Ganz manufactured everything that could be cast: cannons, door handles, lamps, decorative items, wheels. The small museum tells the story of the first heyday of Hungary’s heavy industry giant.

Just a few minutes' ride from here is Széll Kálmán tér – originally a clay pit, now one of Buda's most important and busiest junctions. However, you do not have to go far to reach a quieter place: Városmajor was once the floodplain of Ördög-árok, later bought by Buda city council to establish a nursery and farm here. In the early 19th century, it became a fairground, which was not good for the park. Finally, in 1920, with the covering of Ördög-árok and park development, its problems were solved, and a few years later the Heart of Jesus Parish Church was built. The charm of the Városmajor worship site lies in its architecture, a gem of Budapest’s Bauhaus architecture and the city’s first modern reinforced concrete church. It is actually a complex of buildings including the “little church” consecrated in 1925, the modern building and bell tower delivered in 1933, and the vaulted corridors connecting them.

In the green zone

Continue along Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor, passing the cogwheel railway depot (sometimes they advertise open days, worth peeking into the workshop’s secret world). On the right, you see the Körszálló, the cylindrical hotel building of Hotel Budapest, one of the hippest accommodation places during the socialist era. Many urban legends are attached to the hotel, for example, it was the first place to get cola here; the Czechoslovak football team reportedly broke Herend vases joyfully shortly after opening; but it is certain that ministerial talks about the Gabčíkovo–Nagymaros dam took place here.

Not far on Pasarét út stands the Vasas Sports Center; its main building is a beautiful example of interwar modernist architecture. In front of the entrance, admire the sculptures of István Kamotsay’s Winner athlete and Iván Szabó’s Sportswoman. Along Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor, cycle past the memorials of Raoul Wallenberg and then Gábor Áron. Reaching Szépilona, take a small detour to see a still-functional transport heritage, the BKV tram depot. The Zugliget horse tram line ran here already in 1868; here were built the stables and the coachman's residence, later the depot where horses and their carriages were replaced by trams in 1896. Trams are still dispatched from here on some Buda tram lines. Szépilona is allegedly named after Szép Ilonka by Vörösmarty, but many evocative names can be found in the neighborhoods around our route. Heading toward Városmajor, cross the corner of Vérmező, then Pasarét (renamed in 1847 from Disznórét and Zsír-domb after Abdurrahmán Abdi Arnaut, the last Turkish pasha), pass right Rózsadomb (after Gül Baba, the father of roses), and left Kurucles (also an 1847 naming after the Kuruc troops who attacked Buda here during the Rákóczi War of Independence).

At the Academy (former Imperial and Royal Infantry Cadet School, now partly office space), Ördög-árok emerges from underground, and from here mostly follow the creekside until the end of the ride. Taking a few hundred meter detour at Pasaréti tér is worthwhile to see a significant example of modern Hungarian architecture: Saint Anthony of Padua parish church, consecrated in 1934. Its perfectly matching bus terminus was completed three years later. Nearby is a Bauhaus-style housing estate in Napraforgó utca. The word “housing estate” may not initially imply a liveable environment, but in the 1930s it was different. On the barely 150-meter-long Napraforgó utca, there are 19 houses built in Bauhaus style designed by multiple architects, resulting in a varied look despite the consistent style. Although modified over decades, the style elements remain visible: geometric forms, flat surfaces, flat roofs characterize Bauhaus architecture. Those more interested in Pasarét’s modern architecture can join guided walks in the area.

From the capital to the suburbs

We continue on greener streets until reaching a section where we cycle on a gravel road in the forest to Hűvösvölgy with one or two short climbs. The most interesting sight in Hűvösvölgy is the Children's Railway, especially on open days at the traction depot when you can peek behind the railway operation scenes. From Hűvösvölgy to Máriaremete, a marked bike route leads towards Solymár through low-traffic suburban streets, impossible to get lost following the markings. The Marian pilgrimage site, the Church of Our Lady of Sorrows in Máriaremete, stands in a quiet park. According to legend, an elderly blind woman regained her sight after touching a Mary image placed in the woods; pilgrimages started toward this miraculous place. Behind the church, in the scouts’ house garden, a market is held every other Saturday, not to be missed!

From Máriaremete, climb some steep roads through low-traffic streets to reach Adyliget. From Adyliget to Remeteszőlős, just under a kilometer on the road leading to Nagykovácsi must be cycled, then reaching Remeteszőlős, turn right immediately and cycle under the gardens until the end of the route. It would be a pity to skip a small park in Remeteszőlős, which, along with a barefoot trail, features a musical drinking fountain, a talking phone booth (where you can listen to Örkény's one-minute stories), and a “book stop”: place a book you don't need into the cabinet and take a book you like in exchange.

In the Middle Ages, Nagykovácsi was inhabited by royal blacksmiths, hence its living name today. During the Turkish era, the population significantly decreased, so the Habsburg administration resettled the town, surrounded by hills and mountains, with Swabian settlers. After World War II, the German population was deported and replaced by Hungarians from Upper Hungary. In the mid-19th century, coal mining started in several nearby locations. Today, a memorial made from the remains of the cableway poles for sand transport on Zsíros Hill recalls this (the last mine, Jóreménység-altáró, operated until 1969). The town's most important sight is the Teleki-Tisza Castle, built in neoclassical style around 1840; both families used it as hunting lodges. Throughout its more than 150 years, the building served many functions; it is currently owned by the Hungarian Scouts Association, operating a children's and youth center here. The castle park is freely accessible, and there is even a confectionery in the building.

Nagykovácsi should not necessarily be considered the final point of the ride, as you can connect to several Pilis Bike hiking routes from the town.