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recommended route
Alpine Tour
· Bernese Oberland
Oberaarhorn S-ridge (normal route)
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Oberaarjoch and Oberaarhorn from the glacier tongue of the Oberaar Glacier.Photo: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main
Short and easy ascent from the Oberaarjoch hut to a great viewpoint summit, which can be "included" on the crossing from Oberaarsee to the Finsteraarhorn hut.
The Oberaarhorn is a commanding summit that can be reached relatively quickly and easily via the wide south ridge from the Oberaarjoch hut.
However, a long ascent to the Oberaarjoch hut has to be mastered beforehand (see description of the hut ascent). As a day tour from Oberaarsee, the route is very long overall; it is more pleasant as a 2-day tour with ascent to the hut on the first day and summit ascent and descent on the second day.
Oftentimes, the Oberaarhorn is also climbed as the start of a longer crossing of the Jungfrau-Aletsch Glacier region, to gain the necessary acclimatization for the major objectives of the region.
Author’s recommendation
You have the choice to set off early to reach the summit at sunrise and then have breakfast, or to have breakfast first and then ascend in daylight.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Especially in the lower part of the route there is danger of rockfall, not only for climbers on the route but also for guests on the hut terrace. Therefore, be sure to walk carefully.
Roadbook
On the hut terrace of the Oberaarjoch hut to the furthest corner (towards Finsteraarhorn), then follow the blue markers to the right up the well-stepped rocks with easy climbing (I) in a zigzag upwards. After about 50 meters of elevation gain, the slope becomes somewhat flatter and turns into a block and scree ridge, through which a more or less distinct path leads upwards.
Finally, you reach the summit snowfield, on which, depending on the conditions, you ascend with or without crampons straight upwards to the rocky summit formation or (slightly less steep) in a gentle left curve, slope inclination about 30 degrees. The last meters to the summit are then easy climbing again (I - II).
Time required from the hut to the summit: depending on acclimatization, about 1 - 1.5 hours.
Descent on the same route, about 45 minutes.
Oberaarhoch hut
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Option 1:
By bus to the Grimsel Pass and then on foot to Oberaarsee. From there along the lake and later over the Oberaar Glacier to the Oberaarjoch and to the Oberaarjoch hut. Walking time Grimsel Pass - Oberaarsee: about 1.5 hours (both directions).
Option 2:
By bus to the Grimsel Hospice and from there directly by cable car to Oberaarsee (dam). From there as in option 1.
Directions
By car to Grimsel Pass and from there further on the panoramic road (toll road) to Oberaarsee.
The panoramic road is single-lane and therefore alternately driven uphill and downhill every half hour.
Parking
Paid parking spaces at Oberaarsee.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Swiss national map, 1:25,000: https://s.geo.admin.ch/9c03d782d1
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
- Rockfall helmet (see safety instructions)
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- A rope is not required
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions