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recommended route Alpine Tour · Glockner Group

East Tyrol 360° - Stage 28b: Großglockner ascent (variant)

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Photo: Gernot Madritsch

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Impressive, heavily frequented high alpine route to Austria's highest mountain, the Großglockner. Wide glaciers, steep ice faces, rock climbing up to grade II difficulty, and the narrow ridge between Kleinglockner and Großglockner already make the normal route from Adlersruhe a unique experience, crowned by a fantastic panorama from the 3798 m high summit.

easy

Distance 2 km

5:00 h

350 m

3,798 m

3,454 m

Even though the normal route from Adlersruhe is the easiest summit ascent, it is a medium-difficulty high alpine tour with all alpine hazards. Those without corresponding experience should do the route exclusively with a mountain guide. Key points depending on conditions are the Glocknerleitl, a glacier slope steep up to 40°, and the extremely exposed ridge at the Glocknerscharte, where on both sides there are several hundred meters drop. Due to the many ascents, serious queues and sometimes dangerous situations often occur here. Afterwards follows a last rocky rise up to the golden summit cross of the Großglockner. The panoramic view from the summit in all directions is simply breathtaking.

Author’s recommendation

An early start is worthwhile to avoid long queues, at least on the ascent.

Author

Gernot Madritsch

Responsible for this content
alpenvereinaktiv.com

Difficulty

PD+II40°T6 easy

Overall difficulty

easy

Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

Experience

Landscape

Highest point

3,798 m

Lowest point

3,454 m

Best time of year

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Track types

Traces of trail

2 km

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Rest stops

Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte

Safety information

High alpine experience with appropriate knowledge and skills including various securing techniques and climbing at grade II difficulty with crampons is absolutely essential. Additionally, surefootedness and a head for heights are required. If experience is insufficient, only with a mountain guide!

Ice or firn up to 40°, climbing up to grade II.

Securing possibilities on iron rods, partially also bolts available.

Increasing risk of rockfall in the Glocknerleitl, often bare ice in late summer. Additional danger with high traffic at the crossing from Kleinglockner over the Glocknerscharte to Großglockner (long waiting times and queues).

Attention: difficulties can vary greatly depending on conditions. Early in the year, snow and cornices must also be expected.

Tips and suggestions

All info about the route is also available on the website of the East Tyrol 360° Skyline Trail:

http://www.osttirol-360grad.com/weitwandern/trail-etappen/detail/glocknergruppe/glocknerbesteigung/

To get back on the original path of the East Tyrol 360° Skyline Trail, descend from Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte via Salmhütte to Glorer Hütte (Stage 28c).

Roadbook

From the Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3454 m) at Adlersruhe over the flat firn ridge towards the Glocknerleitl. This glacier slope becomes increasingly steep in switchbacks upwards to a small notch. Now along the southeast ridge over partly icy rock up to the Kleinglockner (3770 m). Securing options at massive iron rods. Caution with cornice overhang on the ridge! From Kleinglockner steep and exposed down into the Glocknerscharte (steel cable). Over a very narrow, exposed ridge edge to the summit structure of the Großglockner. The final rock wall requires climbing of grade II difficulty before the last part becomes gentler up to the Großglockner summit (3798 m).

Descent via the ascent route.

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Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte

Coordinates

47.070155, 12.701462

DMS

47°04'12.6"N 12°42'05.3"E

UTM

33T 325484 5215524

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Equipment

Complete glacier and high alpine tour equipment.

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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Difficulty

PD+II40°T6 easy

Overall difficulty

easy

Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

Distance

2 km

Duration

5:00 h

Ascent

350 m

Descent

350 m

Highest point

3,798 m

Lowest point

3,454 m

Scenic Summit route Exposed sections Scrambling required Ridge Round trip

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