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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Uri Alps

Via Bepi

Responsible for this content
DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main Verified partner 
  • View from the Grimsel Pass road of the plates on the Rhone Glacier
    View from the Grimsel Pass road of the plates on the Rhone Glacier
    Photo: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main

Selected alternatives for you
    Short, well-protected slab climbing high above the Rhône Glacier
    moderate
    Distance 2.1 km
    2:45 h
    234 m
    215 m
    2,510 m
    2,280 m
    The Via Bepi is a beautiful, rather short slab climb with 4 pitches offering magnificent panoramic views high above the Rhône Glacier on very solid rock. The approach and descent are also short, making this route comfortable as a half-day climb. A combination with the Via Heinrich next door is also possible.

    Author’s recommendation

    • With some luck, marmots can be spotted during the descent
    • If you have a choice, do not start too early, as the slabs are in the shade in the morning. 
    Difficulty
    V5a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,510 m
    Lowest point
    2,280 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    130 m, 0:30 h
    Wall height
    100 m
    Climbing length
    170 m, 1:45 h
    Descent
    240 m, 0:30 h
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    8
    First ascent
    Bepe Zanon and Heinrich Blatter 1996

    Track types

    Path 3.70%Unknown 96.29%
    Path
    79 m
    Unknown
    2.1 km
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Eisgrotte & Souvenirshop

    Safety information

    • relatively low risk of rockfall, as the rock is very solid and the route hardly has loose scree

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From the Belvedere in the hairpin of the Furka Pass road, about 100 m further up the road until a sharp left leads to a hiking trail through the grassy slopes to the viewpoint overlooking the Rhône Glacier. From the viewpoint, continue a short distance uphill, then along a narrow trail, partly marked in blue, almost horizontally crossing the steep slopes, until you reach a wide band covered with large blocks (upper edge of the former lateral moraine of the Rhône Glacier). Continue a bit further along this band until you reach the signposted start of the route.
    Note: About 20 m to the left of Via Bepi, the Via Heinrich begins, a second plaisir route which has 7, but shorter pitches. In the topo of the Filidor climbing guide Schweiz Plaisir West, the names of the two routes are swapped. You should not be confused by this.

    Route:
    The route is well protected and hardly missed due to the bolts. The climbing goes up the inclined slabs with a relatively consistent gradient and difficulty. In the Plaisir West climbing guide, the 4 pitches are rated 4c, 4c, 5a, and 5a, although we could barely notice a difference in difficulty. It is possible to rappel from each belay station, so the route can be easily aborted if needed.

    The route ends unspectacularly on a large ledge.

    Descent:
    From the ledge, head right (SW) on a narrow path initially losing little altitude, then steeper down, passing military facilities until you reach a hiking trail. Follow this right downhill to the viewpoint and return on the approach path to the starting point of the route.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Belvedere Furka
    Kneipp- und Alpengarten beim Hotel Belvédère
    Eisgrotte & Souvenirshop
    Rhone Glacier
    Ice cave in the Rhone glacier
    Quellgebiet Rhone
    Erlebnis Rhonegletscher

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By bus to the Belvedere at the Rhône Glacier

    Directions

    On the Furka Pass road to the Belvedere at the Rhône Glacier

    Parking

    Free parking spaces are located a little above the Belvedere on the roadside of the Furka Pass road.

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'672'899E 1'158'766N
    DD
    46.576196, 8.389636
    DMS
    46°34'34.3"N 8°23'22.7"E
    UTM
    32T 453231 5158251
    w3w 
    ///emporium.sensibly.painter
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Author’s map recommendations

    Equipment

    • 50 m rope
    • 8 quickdraws
    • mobile protection devices are hardly needed
    • helmet

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    V5a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.1 km
    Duration
    2:45 h
    Ascent
    234 m
    Descent
    215 m
    Highest point
    2,510 m
    Lowest point
    2,280 m
    Public-transport-friendly Out and back Scenic Fauna Slab Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

    Statistics

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