Author’s recommendation
- If you start early enough and move quickly, you can continue climbing at the end point of the route instead of descending. Turn left on the exit ledge, eventually reach a blue entry marker, and climb 9 more pitches to the forepeak of the small Furkahorn.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Eisgrotte & SouvenirshopSafety information
The rock is quite solid, and the rockfall hazard is relatively low.Roadbook
Approach:
From the Belvedere, continue about 100 m uphill on the Furka Pass road switchback until sharply turning left onto a hiking trail through grassy slopes leading to the viewpoint over the Rhone Glacier. From the viewpoint, continue a short way uphill, then almost horizontally along a narrow path, partly marked in blue, crossing the steep slopes until reaching a wide ledge covered with large blocks (upper edge of the former lateral moraine of the Rhone Glacier). Pass the start of Via Bepi and continue about 300 m on the ledge to the red-signed and marked start, about 45 minutes from the Belvedere.
Route:
The route has a total of 13 pitches of relatively uniform incline and difficulty. Belay stations are often placed using natural ledges that interrupt the slabs, so you don't have to stand permanently on the inclined slab. Given the good protection with bolt anchors, the route is hardly missable, so a detailed description is unnecessary. However, some points should be noted:
- After the 9th pitch, you reach an especially spacious belay. From there, you can exit the route to the right along a thin cable and some markings on a ledge. To the left of the belay is a cave-like narrow rock crack (labeled "WC" in the topo).
- After the 10th pitch, there is another large, inclined, and rubble-covered ledge. Since no protection is present over this in the 11th pitch, you need to pay closer attention to the route here. Avoid going too far left, where about 20 m away is the next neighboring route which goes via a grassy gully, while the Kreuzbandweg continues on the slabs to the right (12th pitch).
- After the 12th pitch, you reach another ledge, from which you can exit the route to the right along markings and partly a thin cable, thereby skipping the last and most difficult pitch. This exit joins the descent path from the route's end later on.
- The 13th and last pitch is the most difficult. The crux is to initially climb steeply left onto a strongly inclined slab beneath a horizontal roof, then traverse right at the base of the roof to a corner, and then overcome the roof through this corner.
The route ends unremarkably on a spacious ledge, from which the descent back to the start proceeds to the right.
Descent:
Follow the ledge on a faint path with marker points, some short sections are equipped with a very thin cable. The descent path initially loses little elevation, then goes down more steeply, passing a first military installation. Continue straight there (do not follow the path to the left), descend further until a hiking trail leads right to the viewpoint above the Rhone Glacier and back to the start point. Duration of descent: just under 1 hour.
Belvedere Furka
Kneipp- und Alpengarten beim Hotel Belvédère
Eisgrotte & Souvenirshop
Rhone Glacier
Ice cave in the Rhone glacier
Quellgebiet Rhone
Erlebnis Rhonegletscher
Breitrüfi
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
By bus to the Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier.Directions
By car on the Furka Pass road to the Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier.Parking
Just above the Belvedere, there are free roadside parking spaces.Coordinates
Equipment
- 50 m rope
- 10 quickdraws
- Wedges and friends are not required
- Helmet
- Sturdy shoes for the descent
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions