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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Goms

Kreuzbandweg

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DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main Verified partner 
  • Starting point Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier
    Starting point Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier
    Photo: Gisbert Bandrock

Selected alternatives for you
    Long slab climbing high above the Rhone Glacier
    moderate
    Distance 3.6 km
    6:15 h
    392 m
    392 m
    2,673 m
    2,281 m
    The Kreuzbandweg is a relatively easy and well-protected, but with 13 pitches quite long slab climb with magnificent panoramic views over the Rhone Glacier. Due to the northwest-facing orientation, you climb here long in the shade in the morning, making the route well suited for hot days. Together with the relatively short approach and descent, it makes for a nice, moderate day route.

    Author’s recommendation

    • If you start early enough and move quickly, you can continue climbing at the end point of the route instead of descending. Turn left on the exit ledge, eventually reach a blue entry marker, and climb 9 more pitches to the forepeak of the small Furkahorn.
    Difficulty
    IV+4b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,673 m
    Lowest point
    2,281 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    130 m, 0:45 h
    Wall height
    270 m
    Climbing length
    500 m, 4:30 h
    Descent
    400 m, 1:00 h
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    Richard Arnold, Petra and Konrad Stadler, Christine Kopp, 1992

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Eisgrotte & Souvenirshop

    Safety information

    The rock is quite solid, and the rockfall hazard is relatively low.

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From the Belvedere, continue about 100 m uphill on the Furka Pass road switchback until sharply turning left onto a hiking trail through grassy slopes leading to the viewpoint over the Rhone Glacier. From the viewpoint, continue a short way uphill, then almost horizontally along a narrow path, partly marked in blue, crossing the steep slopes until reaching a wide ledge covered with large blocks (upper edge of the former lateral moraine of the Rhone Glacier). Pass the start of Via Bepi and continue about 300 m on the ledge to the red-signed and marked start, about 45 minutes from the Belvedere.

    Route:
    The route has a total of 13 pitches of relatively uniform incline and difficulty. Belay stations are often placed using natural ledges that interrupt the slabs, so you don't have to stand permanently on the inclined slab. Given the good protection with bolt anchors, the route is hardly missable, so a detailed description is unnecessary. However, some points should be noted:

    • After the 9th pitch, you reach an especially spacious belay. From there, you can exit the route to the right along a thin cable and some markings on a ledge. To the left of the belay is a cave-like narrow rock crack (labeled "WC" in the topo).
    • After the 10th pitch, there is another large, inclined, and rubble-covered ledge. Since no protection is present over this in the 11th pitch, you need to pay closer attention to the route here. Avoid going too far left, where about 20 m away is the next neighboring route which goes via a grassy gully, while the Kreuzbandweg continues on the slabs to the right (12th pitch).
    • After the 12th pitch, you reach another ledge, from which you can exit the route to the right along markings and partly a thin cable, thereby skipping the last and most difficult pitch. This exit joins the descent path from the route's end later on.
    • The 13th and last pitch is the most difficult. The crux is to initially climb steeply left onto a strongly inclined slab beneath a horizontal roof, then traverse right at the base of the roof to a corner, and then overcome the roof through this corner.

    The route ends unremarkably on a spacious ledge, from which the descent back to the start proceeds to the right.

    Descent:
    Follow the ledge on a faint path with marker points, some short sections are equipped with a very thin cable. The descent path initially loses little elevation, then goes down more steeply, passing a first military installation. Continue straight there (do not follow the path to the left), descend further until a hiking trail leads right to the viewpoint above the Rhone Glacier and back to the start point. Duration of descent: just under 1 hour.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Oberwald VS, Muttbach
    Belvedere Furka
    Kneipp- und Alpengarten beim Hotel Belvédère
    Eisgrotte & Souvenirshop
    Rhone Glacier
    Ice cave in the Rhone glacier
    Quellgebiet Rhone
    Erlebnis Rhonegletscher
    Breitrüfi

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By bus to the Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier.

    Directions

    By car on the Furka Pass road to the Belvedere at the Rhone Glacier.

    Parking

    Just above the Belvedere, there are free roadside parking spaces.

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'672'906E 1'158'759N
    DD
    46.576135, 8.389722
    DMS
    46°34'34.1"N 8°23'23.0"E
    UTM
    32T 453237 5158244
    w3w 
    ///rooftop.cosmic.underline
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    • 50 m rope
    • 10 quickdraws
    • Wedges and friends are not required
    • Helmet
    • Sturdy shoes for the descent

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV+4b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    3.6 km
    Duration
    6:15 h
    Ascent
    392 m
    Descent
    392 m
    Highest point
    2,673 m
    Lowest point
    2,281 m
    Public-transport-friendly Out and back Slab Descending on foot Pleasure Scenic

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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