Aggenstein Kemptner Ridge

Approach:

From the Bad Kissinger Hut, first follow the hiking trail to the Aggenstein, but shortly before the start of the cables, leave it and turn right onto the path that descends the "long strip" with many switchbacks over the Bayern-Tirol saddle.

At about 1800 m, leave the hiking trail on a faint path to the left and initially cross the steep grassy slope horizontally to the rear scree gully. Descend along the ridge spine's rocks between this and the scree gully (or inside the gully, but then leave it again soon) and around the ridge spine, ascending again on the other side to a flat place between the ridge spine and the actual Kemptner Ridge under a gully. Put on climbing gear here, then a few meters to the right to the bolt, which marks the belay of the 1st pitch.

Instead of starting from the Bad Kissinger Hut, the start can also be reached from Pfronten via the Breitenberg cable car, Hochalp cable car, and ascent over the "long strip" to the path junction.

Approach time: approx. 1:30 h

The Route:

The route has a total of 9 pitches. All belays (except the lowest) consist of 2 bolts and are spacious enough that a second rope team can also fit there. Bolt spacing is mostly between 7 and 8 m, which is sufficient to easily find the route; in between are always good possibilities for further protection.
In detail:

1. Pitch: 40 m, up to 4
   This is the key pitch, with the most difficult section a steep slab overcome along its left bordering rocks. The bolt at the top of the slab is easy to overlook. 
2. Pitch: 30m, 2+ and 3
   Well tiered, with some ledges, slightly right of the edge to the belay on a ledge.
3. Pitch: 32m, 2+ and 3-
   Similar to the 2nd pitch to the belay on a grassy ledge near the edge.
4. Pitch: 25m, 3
   Further slightly right of the edge more or less straight upwards to the belay on a ledge.
5. Pitch: 40m, 3+ / 4-
   Slightly diagonally right upwards to a prominent rock head (just below this on hooks 4-), then straight up at the back to a comfortable belay on the ridge.
6. Pitch: 45m, 2 and 3-
   Along the ridge edge (hiking terrain and 2) to a short rock bulge, topped by a large grassy ledge. Belay here at a rock on the meadow (easy to overlook).
7. Pitch: 40m, 1 and briefly 3
   Initially flat through grass further to another rock bulge. Climb this directly at the edge (bolt, brief 3-), then flat again and hiking terrain (1-2) to the belay on grassy summit.
8. Pitch: 45m, hiking terrain and 2-)
   Initially descending gently on a wide meadow to the foot of the Aggenstein south summit. Here to the upper grass ledge, traverse horizontally on it, briefly over slabs into the notch between Aggenstein south summit and main summit with belay.
   The grass ledge crossing can be slippery, but the passage can be well protected with slings and stoppers.
9. Pitch: 30m, 3- and 1 - 2
   Slightly right of the edge briefly steep, then flattening upwards to the main summit of the Aggenstein (last belay on the fore summit).

Time required for the route: approx. 3.5 to 4h

Descent:
Return via the hiking path (secured with cables at the top) back to the hut, approx. 30 min.
Rappelling from the notch between the Aggenstein south summit and main summit (avoiding the last ascent to the main summit) is not a good idea because the rope then ends in very steep grassy terrain.